torque tube clam shell nut clearance problem

fordyford

fordyford

Senior Member
Working on a 1934 with the captive ( not split ) u-joint cover. What nut should I use on the 7/16-20 studs at the rear of the transmission? There is not sufficient room to clear my socket wrench.

Keith
 
You need a 5/8 AF nut and a thin wall socket. On my project 32 I've taken some long 5/8 nuts and turned the ends down so they fit ok and there is more room for the socket. If you have a lathe you can get creative. But a standard 5/8 AF nut and a thin wall socket should be ok.
Mart.
 
Get some elastic stop nuts and grind the locking portion off and you will have some 7/16" nuts that will take a 5/8" wrench or socket.
 
I found that one of my special 3/8" ratchets that is hinged between the gear head and handle and a thin wall 5/8" socket works perfectly to remove or install those special nuts that do not have provisions for cotter pins like the two at the top of the UJ cover have. At least that's how my original '35's were put together and also shown in the EFV-8 Club's 1935-36 Ford Book.
 
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While all four studs have drilled shanks for cotter pins used with slotted hex nuts, access to the bottom two is restricted so 5/8" 7/16-20 hex nuts and shake proof lock washers were used for those two studs. The top two are easily accessible on a '34 and 5/8" slotted hex nuts and cotter pins were used originally. Michael Driskell (Third Gen Automotive) has both plain and slotted 5/8" 7/16-20 hex nuts in the correct S-2 (raven) finish.
 
Thanks for the answers. I dug into my used nut drawer and found the 5/8" size nuts. I have a stash of NOS 11/16" nuts that I was trying to use but they did not work out.
 
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