Torque for bolts on valve cover?

K

KoryLMT

New member
Hello all,

I am a new member and have owned my 29 Model A Tudor for a little over 6 months. It runs good and I am enjoying exploring the neighborhoods as I ride around. I am addressing a few things that have been neglected over the years with it.

It has an oil leak from the passenger side valve cover and also from the oil return tube that goes into the valve cover. I purchased a new valve cover gasket and oil return tube seals. I was hoping I could get some advice in changing out the gaskets. Does anyone know what the torque should be on the valve cover bolts? Also, would that apply to the oil return tube bolts as well?

Any help would be appreciated. Thanks for your time. Kory
 
Hey Kory,

Welcome to the barn. A lot of good information on this site! When changing out the gasket I usually clean all around where the gasket goes and now is a good time to clean all inside the valve chamber and inspect for a rusty oil pump drive gear/sping and other issues. When installing the gasket I usually line up the cover and slowly screw in bolts and making sure it's not bunching up anywhere. I never torque the bolts just snug them up but don't over tighten them.
 
Welcome to the barn Kory. The valve cover bolts get torqued to 20 ft. lbs. The oil return tube has the round cork gaskets. Please insure that you have copper washers on the 2 oil return bolts. The copper washer acts as a gasket on the return pipe. You can put some gasket sealer on the gaskets as well. Hope this helps. Jeff
 
Kory, check the oil return tube closely to ensure both end gasket surfaces are parallel.

I had a persistent drip on that side. I traced it back to the rear oil return pipe flange using fluorescent dye in the oil. After I had the oil return pipe off and on three times I finally replaced it and all is good.

Just a little heads up. And Welcome to The Barn... :p:p
 
I forgot. I use a small amount of grease to hold the gasket in place while installing and easier removal in the future. I find no need for sealants if the gasket surfaces have not been butchered in the past. :rolleyes:
 
This is a helpful hint that I learned here.

Get a few longer bolts that are the same thread as the valve cover bolts, cut the heads off and put a slot in them to make them easier to remove.

Put the headless studs in first to help align everything as you slide it into place, put in as many bolts as you can then remove the studs and replace with the cover bolts.

You can use this on the pan too if you ever need to remove it.
 

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Kory, here is what I do.

Naturally the first thing to do is clean both gasket surfaces on the valve cover, While the cover is on the bench I use a bit of Permatex red and using as little as possible, attach the gasket to the valve cover being sure to get all the holes lined up.

Do the same with the gasket surfaces for the drain tube and install the gaskets on that too using the Permatex.
One thing no one has mentioned is closely look at the area of the drain tube where the tube meets the ends. Since they are soldered together, they have been known to come loose and leak. IF either end is loose, clean with a carburetor cleaner or brake cleaner and resolder with small flame with a flux solder, no need to burn it up, clean and apply gasket as above.

Now, here is the secret, before reinstalling the valve cover, add a thin layer of assembly grease to the gasket and install snugly. No need to over tighten any of the bolts. Some of the grease may ooze out, if so, wipe with rag, no biggy. Do the same with the drain tube, grease, snug bolts.

IF you find that you need to remove these in the future, there will be no need to replace the gaskets, and IF you want to replace the gaskets they will be stuck on the part on the bench where you are not breaking your back leaning over the fender with that belly warmer belt buckle scratching that beautiful paint job trying to scrape the gasket off the engine.
 
I wouldn't use 20 foot pounds of torque.
A good hand snug is fine, such as hand snug with a 1/4" T handle, or ratchet.
 
20 ft lbs is in the red bible. Section 1- page 144. Right hand side of the page 2/3's the way down. ...... Just stated what I read from Les' book before responding. ! Jeff :)
 
JDupuis said:
20 ft lbs is in the red bible. Section 1- page 144. Right hand side of the page 2/3's the way down. ...... Just stated what I read from Les' book before responding. ! Jeff :)
Click to expand...

I wonder if that figure was taken from a machinist book on torque values for certain bolt sizes?
I'm sure 20 foot pounds won't break most 5/16" bolts, but if a cork gasket is used, it sure would squish it out of place. I'd probably use about 5 to 7 foot pounds if I used a torque wrench, and then recheck them after a few days. Cork gaskets will take a set and need to be snugged up again after a few days.
 
JDupuis said:
20 ft lbs is in the red bible. Section 1- page 144. Right hand side of the page 2/3's the way down. ...... Just stated what I read from Les' book before responding. ! Jeff :)
Click to expand...

Can't trust the torque values in the red book, those are the max values from tables as Tom mentioned. Remember that there were no torque wrenches used on the A when it was new.

And to KoryLMT, welcome!!
 
Thank you so much for all the great advice, guys! This certainly gives me things to think about and consider when changing the gaskets. Great idea with the headless studs to help with alignment, also the grease to help with any future removal.
Hopefully I can get it all lined up the first time and I don't become a career gasket installer this time around, haha...
Kory
 
I think we should forget torque when working on the A. Buy some original tools and use the wrench provided for the bolt/nut size you are tightening. the important thing is to get the bolts tightened evenly. I usually tighten by hand and then check with the torque wrench if I have any doubts. I do use a TR on head bolts and lug nuts because these items can cause big problems if not carefully tightened.
 
I think we should forget torque when working on the A.
Click to expand...

Its hard - we have a whole generation of mechanics who think only in "textbook numbers."

Textbook has its place, but unfortunately the Model A was made before the textbooks became the reference du jour.

Joe K
 
I was about to ask a question on type of gasket for valve cover, when I found this new thread.

I see some vendors offer a choice of paper or cork gasket. Bratton only seems to offer paper. What do you recommend. Is paper original. I would prefer a gasket type that is less leak prone.
 
Houdini, I use paper for the valve cover. No leaks, as stated above, make sure both surfaces are clean.
Jeff
 
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