torque all head nuts

One of the head bolts is slightly longer than than the others. It is used where the ignition cable clamp is used. Is it possible you are not using the clamp, or perhaps this bolt is not in the correct place in tthe block?
 
As far as the one bolt showing more threads then the others I would assume the bolt was not fully seated in the block, as for the torque method used by others, all I can say is as long as you follow the torque sequence then "to each their own". I'm with you and the water neck.

You can have three people torque the same head and they will do it five different way.
 
Werner said:
Guten Morgen!
Why do you tighten the head screws so often? So far I was of the opinion that once after 500 mls is enough.
I use the modern silicone head gasket.
Click to expand...

I'll NEVER use one of those gaskets again! In the time I been driving Model As, I have blown 2 head gaskets. they were both those bloody things fitted in accordance with the enclosed directions.:mad:
 
Guten Tag miteinander.


I asked a modern engine developer. This modern silicone layer composite head gaskets have melting components. These adhere to the surface.

Therefore, these seals may only be tightened ice cold.

All surfaces must be free of grease.

Before tightening the torque at the 2nd, ..., the nuts must never be loosened.
 
Guten Abend!

Now my additional note on the "modern" head gasket type:

Unfortunately I can confirm the note from Wade in # 15. After about 550 miles I see that the head gasket is sweating some water outside. This is althoug the fact that the cylinder head was flated and I retightened it at four times.

Today I turned the original head screwes up to >65 foot/lbs; I don't trust the screws any more. It has gotten a little bit better, but it's not good.

This modern seal is not good for me and I will choose the well-known copper seal again in the future.
 
Hi,



as previously written, I had drawn the dry (no oil) C-head scews with 65 foot/lbs. It has gotten better, but not yet well-sealed everywhere. A few traces of water are still sweating out.

Does anyone have any experience how much the normal stud bolts / nuts can be tightened?
 
I wouldn't feel comfortable going over the 65 lbs you have it at now. Going much over 55 really should not be necessary.
I would rather pull the head and switch over to the copper clad gasket than risk breaking a head stud and having to deal with removing it.
 
On my most used car, the cold cranking compression is 110 psi + or - 2 psi on all cylinders. I use a copper high temp gasket sealer and a BEST graphite gasket. I go through a heating and retorquing process like that described in the Brumfield article above. I torque to 55 ftlb and have no trouble.
I always use an antiseize lubricant on the threads. What I do has worked for me so I will stick with it till it doesn't and why would it suddenly stop working?
 
Werner said:
Guten Abend!

Now my additional note on the "modern" head gasket type:

Unfortunately I can confirm the note from Wade in # 15. After about 550 miles I see that the head gasket is sweating some water outside. This is althoug the fact that the cylinder head was flated and I retightened it at four times.

Today I turned the original head screwes up to >65 foot/lbs; I don't trust the screws any more. It has gotten a little bit better, but it's not good.

This modern seal is not good for me and I will choose the well-known copper seal again in the future.
Click to expand...


Hi Werner, there is another string going about the modern gasket, in case you have not seen it here it is. Talks about using water/no antifreeze for the 1st thousand miles , or perhaps till the head gasket stops seeping. Maybe worth a try?


Post 10 paragraph 2
https://www.fordbarn.com/forum/showthread.php?t=282825
 
Thanks to Dave, Synchro, Wade, etc.!

Right, the risk is too great now to damage the cap screws.

I can hardly read all the posts, because of course this is very tough and cumbersome for me. But the advice to use clear cooler water without additives cannot be dismissed out of hand. This is because radiator antifreeze is a polyethylene glycol, and this PEG sweats easily through the narrowest gaps.

Bottom line: I'll wait and see ...
 
My opinion- There has been lots of negative feedback on the modern silicone gasket. Some have had success with it, but reasons for the successes are not definitively known and verified. The copper and Best composite have few if any failures. Personally I would not want to risk using the modern gasket.


Please note Dave's experience in the above string referenced in post 29 - "If antifreeze is used during the setting of the gasket, and it seeps, it will never seal and may weep when put under heavy load. Just my experience."
 
Thanks for your hint, Katy! I had mistaken water-soluble polyethylene glycol for ethylene glycol. In this case, the correct name for radiator antifreeze is ethylene glycol.
 
Werner said:
Hi,



as previously written, I had drawn the dry (no oil) C-head scews with 65 foot/lbs. It has gotten better, but not yet well-sealed everywhere. A few traces of water are still sweating out.

Does anyone have any experience how much the normal stud bolts / nuts can be tightened?
Click to expand...

You should NEVER torque any head stud/bolt dry. Use an approved thread lube.
You should use HARD washers under the bolt or nut head and lube them also.

I test all head stud threads in the block at 100 ft. lb. before any other machine work is done.
 
I would look into the above closer, though Pete has tons of experience, most of what I have read/seen indicates that most published documentation is for torquing with dry clean threads on the bolt/nut. Washer is OK, but that a drop of lube between the nut and the surface being torqued down on is OK. Literature I've seen indicates that Dry and lubed torque are different.


Am interested in what others have to say. If I am not correct, always open to learning something new.
 
Guten Tag!

I know from previous literature that torque specifications apply to unlubricated threads.

L. Andrews writes e.g. b.: dry 55 ft / lbs = lubricated 40 ft / lbs.
 
In my opinion the modern style silicone gasket has a design problem, the fire ring doesn't compress enough to seal the composite material.It seems too wick coolant,turning it into goo.

Torque uses stud stretch to put the assembly in
tension.Overtorquing puts stress on the deck.Wet / dry torque values favor the ability of lubricants to reduce friction..I'm not sold on the lubricants ability to reduce torque values as much as stated
 
An additional feedback to #26:

The "modern" cylinder head gasket does now no longer sweats. From trip to trip it became less and less. Now everything is fine without any need for correction.
 
Good to hear that it worked out for you, thanks for posting the update.
Happy motoring Werner.
 
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