Top irons

L

ljones44

Member
Question:

How do you replace the material in the top irons where the tacks are placed. The area is between the top iron where it curves. Is this part of the wood bows? All of the bows that I have viewed are not curved.

Larry
ljones44@bellsouth.net
 
From the description, 28-29 & 30-31 standard. It is a seperate filler not part of the bows. All the ones I have and had have a Masonite type product. There was a tthread sometime back of making your own filler with wood shavings/dust and epoxy or glue. I don't recall exactly, you could do a search and most likely find it. There is a member 28pickuppain? That used 1/4" wood strips and epoxy, his finished product looked great.
 
If Iwas to do mine again, I would cut some metal away from the outside curve and epoxy a piece of bandsawed timber in.

It is not seen, and all you need is something for nails/staples to hold.
 
I have used very successfully 3 ply cut into suitable strips with pointed ends. Coat with candle grease and knock one at a time inside the bow until you cannot get another strip in. Cut the outside end off square. Has vever failed me. Best to use a marine ply
 
Thanks for the information:

I stopped by Home Depot and asked them for their sawdust from cutting material for their customer. They were quick to give me a bag full of sawdust, purchased some glue and I will try mixing glue and sawdust.

I also picked up several five gallon paint mixing sticks. The wood is very flexible and I believe that the sticks could be cut down and forced into the irons.

I will now wreck your day by sending a picture of my 1930 Model A Roadster.
 

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I tried several ways to do this, masonite, no good, thin strips of steamed hardwood, no good, steamed pine, no good, thought about leather, spoke to a leather man, no good. Finially used builders bog (like body filler but can be nailed) filled them up saned it off and painted. I have not fitted a top to them yet but it looks like a good and easy solution.
Regards
Brendan
 
I just cut long thin slices of oak 1/32 thick coated one edge with epoxy and slid it up around the curve to the middle then did the other side till the met then just kept doing that till it was was solid an the space taken up now it's solid oak inside no problem and extra support that sawdust and epoxy won't give.
 
I just cut long thin slices of oak 1/32 thick coated one edge with epoxy and slid it up around the curve to the middle then did the other side till the met then just kept doing that till it was was solid an the space taken up now it's solid oak inside no problem and extra support that sawdust and epoxy won't give.
 
I used a wood filler made by MINWAX on the bows of my 30 roadster. That filler soaks into the old holes and chewed up areas and accepts tacks. For major areas of missing wood I would use sawdust mixed with Kwik Poly available from LeBaron Bonney and other suppliers.
 
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