I have a seven tooth box on my '28 coupe. The steering has more than 5" of play in it. And although I am capable of driving it safely, just having to be minful of it and on top of it at all times is a bit of work and certainly tends to take the pleasure out of driving it. Considering this, I have checked every rod and arm connection and there is NO play in any of them. Sooo.. the problem is 'certainly'' in the box. Rather than just taking the assembly out and trying to adjust it (considering the amount of play), I was thinking an rebuild might be in order. My questions are... can this be accomplished in a garage setting without any special tools, presses, reamers, etc? Should I just order every possible new part needed or disassemble it first and go from there... "I am always willing to bear the additional costs for a satisfactory outcome?" IS this an ideal opportunity to replace 'everything' from the steering wheel to the pitman arm (light switch, control rods, etc? And, although the existing box on the car is filled with grease, should a rebuilt one be filled with 600W oil? How problematic is leakage with oil? Just need some advise/nudging in the right direction... SALTMAN
Tooo.. much steering box play!
- Thread starter saltman
- Start date
Saltman - Yes, a 7-tooth steering box can be built in a garage setting. I know, because I did it. My box had 3-4 inches of steering wheel play, and after the rebuild; the play was reduced to almost nothing.
I thought I had a rebuild procedure on the computer, but can't find it. However, the "red-book volume 1" by Les Andrews does have it.
One tool you will need is a reamer(s) for the bushings for the steering wheel shaft and pitman arm shaft. As for leakage; this can be prevented by using the tube sold by most vendors that fits inside the steering wheel shaft. The shaft inside diameter will need to be enlarged, but any good machine shop can do this. Also, the vendors sell a seal for the pitman arm shaft to keep it from leaking too.
Finally, yes - 600w is the proper lubricant to use in the steering box.
Good luck,
Ron/IA
I thought I had a rebuild procedure on the computer, but can't find it. However, the "red-book volume 1" by Les Andrews does have it.
One tool you will need is a reamer(s) for the bushings for the steering wheel shaft and pitman arm shaft. As for leakage; this can be prevented by using the tube sold by most vendors that fits inside the steering wheel shaft. The shaft inside diameter will need to be enlarged, but any good machine shop can do this. Also, the vendors sell a seal for the pitman arm shaft to keep it from leaking too.
Finally, yes - 600w is the proper lubricant to use in the steering box.
Good luck,
Ron/IA
Thanks for the excellent response. Are the reamer(s) for the 2 pitman arm bushings and the shaft bushing? Not sure what you are talking about as far as a tube needed inside the steering shaft. Hvae looked at MACs catelog since they have really good diagrams and see nothing. Please comment. SALTMAN
http://www.snydersantiqueauto.com/3927
Saltman - the above link should take you to the part sold by Snyder's. This is the tube I was talking about. Other vendors sell this too.
And the answer is yes on the reamers (pitman and shaft bushing). However, there may be bushings that don't require reaming, but I haven't done any research on that.
Ron/IA
Saltman - the above link should take you to the part sold by Snyder's. This is the tube I was talking about. Other vendors sell this too.
And the answer is yes on the reamers (pitman and shaft bushing). However, there may be bushings that don't require reaming, but I haven't done any research on that.
Ron/IA
CarlG
Well-known member
Attachments
CARLG & RON/IA,
Thanks to your responses regarding the 'loose steering gearbox' questions I asked... I now 'get it'. I will 'possibly' need a reamer(s) to finalize the diameters on the shaft and sector arm bushings. And, as far as my questions about leakage on the gearbox, I 'get' all that too. I have located in Snyder's catelog the 'oil seal tube' which prevents oil from leaking out thru the wiring harness end. And, I also 'get it' and have located the seal that is available that prevents oil leakage between the sector arm housing and the car's frame, of which both 'may' have to be milled to accomodate them. I would have 'never' known any this it I hadn't asked... that's why I ask! AND, I 'never' get tired of saying: "You guys are the best!" SALTMAN
Thanks to your responses regarding the 'loose steering gearbox' questions I asked... I now 'get it'. I will 'possibly' need a reamer(s) to finalize the diameters on the shaft and sector arm bushings. And, as far as my questions about leakage on the gearbox, I 'get' all that too. I have located in Snyder's catelog the 'oil seal tube' which prevents oil from leaking out thru the wiring harness end. And, I also 'get it' and have located the seal that is available that prevents oil leakage between the sector arm housing and the car's frame, of which both 'may' have to be milled to accomodate them. I would have 'never' known any this it I hadn't asked... that's why I ask! AND, I 'never' get tired of saying: "You guys are the best!" SALTMAN
CarlG
Well-known member
OK, my mistake. I have only ever had 31's, therefore 2-tooth boxes, just assumed that they were all alike. Thanks for setting me straight Ron.
Is this better?
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BruceUpstate NY
Senior Member
I believe there is no safe way to drive an A with lots of steering play. Slide off the edge of the macadam and over correct can put you upside down under your open car. First hand experience with Divine Intervention.
Only 2 adj on the 2-tooth boxes. Shims for worm adj & sector adj screw for end play on sector shaft.With a lot of play, you will most lickely need all brgs & worm & sector.If it was me,I would find the later 29 2-tooth box which has more adj,s & is a much better box.The 7 tooth box is a primitive design.Do that along with a short P-arm & Teflon ball seats along with round steering balls Then it will steer very easily.On my 30 coupe I went so far as to have the sector hsg machined back .!40 " so that a Torrington needle thrust brg could be installed to eliminate the brass thrust washer.Now my steering is almost on a par with an F-100 steering.Only about 3/4 "play at steering wheel & it steers very easily.
Kevin in NJ
Well-known member
If you put the bushings in and did not have to hone then to size then the bushings are WRONG. When you put bushings in they get distorted. So they have lots of high spots and may not be inline. As the shaft turns on the bushing it RAPIDLY wears the high spots and they get loose QUICK.
When you put the shaft in the bushings you should have turned them some and then removed the shaft to see the discoloration. Then you realize how little material is holding the shaft to be 'tight' and how quick it will all go away.
Please read this:
Steering sectors
All the bushings being sold by the retailers are the wrong size. They are probably truck king pin bushings.
When you put the shaft in the bushings you should have turned them some and then removed the shaft to see the discoloration. Then you realize how little material is holding the shaft to be 'tight' and how quick it will all go away.
Please read this:
Steering sectors
All the bushings being sold by the retailers are the wrong size. They are probably truck king pin bushings.