Tools/supplies needed while traveling

[Hitman]

I believe it was Paul Shinn who said he carries a spare carburetor with him, and If I could add something to the list, it would be a jack.

eog

There's no reason to carry a complete spare carb. Nothing in them will fail, or wear out on a trip. They might leak on occasion, or plug with something, but that's it.

You'll end up with more wear and tear on your carb carrying it under the seat than you will on the engine.

 

[Clem Clement]

I carry these goodies. I send this list to all on the tour. It gives members confidence parts are at hand. Especially the clutch release arm and the accelerator return spring

MODEL A TOOL KIT
FRONT TOOL BOX


Wooden cheese box
Clothes pins
Distributor wrench
Door hinge pin
Fuses-30 Amp
Goop/duct and elect. tape
Ignition Switch bypass
Misc. wrenches/Feeler gauge/screw drivers
Muffler seal
Point file
Short Phillips screwdriver for timing
Spark plug wires
Tire weights
Tube repair kit
Wire
Bendix spring
Carburetor
Clutch release arm
Coils-2 + wires
Compression gauge
Cut out Switch-2
Distributor drive gear and spring
Exhaust Clamp and gasket
Fan Belt
Float adjustment tool
Funnel
Gallon of H2O (on running board)
Gas cap
Gasket seal
Grease gun
Glue
Ignition harness cork and nail (replaces bad switch)
Instant Beer
JB weld
Leather belt (Bearing replacement)
Oil
Misc. nuts, bolts and washers
Multimeter
Polish
Rags
Rod bearing cap
Rubber gloves
Spritzer
Starter switch
Timing Gear (socket and tool in tool bag)
Voltmeter
Water pump and gasket
Water pump grease
Wheel bearings-2 sets
Wheel bearing Grease


PACKAGE TRAY

Batteries

Business cards
Bratton’s catalogue
Flashlight
Fire Extinguisher (on running board)
First aid kit
Good luck charms
Hand wipes
Light bulb box
Model A club Roster (in door pocket)
Repair manual
Snacks
Walkie talkies
Work gloves


UNDER SEAT


Plastic Parts Box
Accelerator return spring
Ammeter-2
Axle key and shims
Axle nut remover
Carb gasket set plus needle valves
Condenser and Points
Gas filter screen and glass gasket
Generator brushes
Distributor cam and cap and bottom plate
Engine bearing shims
Light Bulbs
Plug wires
Rotor
Spark plugs
Speedo gear
Starter Bendix bolts
Water pump packing
Wire ties
Valve and guide
Cotter pins
Crank
Distributor body
Fan belt
Gas gauge repair kit and tools
Small hyd. Jack with base
Lug wrench
8x10 Glossy of Sandy
Stethoscope
Tire tube
Tow rope



RUMBLE AREA


American flags
Blanket
Bungees
Calico chicken
Chock
Flares
Folding chairs (sometimes)
Generator (No)
Head gasket
Paper towels
Poncho
Torque wrench
Tool bag

 

[Eccentric Old Guy]

Now, THAT is being prepared ^^^^^



eog

 

[KenD]

Clem, I like your list a lot but I can't fathom the purpose of a short phillips screwdriver for timing. Is that for some newfangled ignition system?
And is the Gallon of H2O (on running board) to ensure the "Instant Beer" gets reconstituted properly?
A speedometer gear isn't a bad idea but given that I have had 2 speedo cables give out and I'm still driving the A without a speedometer 3 years later, I don't know that I would bother carrying that particular part.

 

[Clem Clement]

The short Phillips screw driver with the regular size grip and short shaft goes in the timing pin hole perfectly. Try it. It is much easier to find the dimple in the timing gear than use to original timing pin. (don't forget to replace the pin after use!)

All this gives other tour members confidence that we can fix everything. Instant beer, when applied properly, is most helpful.

Don't forget a rubber chicken, mechanical rat, and spring snake to liven things up. I also have a huge heavy machine wrench, when dropped will bring members a-running to see...

I was maintenance tent chair for 2 national meets in the Norfolk, VA area. We learned a lot and had so much fun fixing stuff. Anyone else there??
Clem

 

[Eccentric Old Guy]

Start at 8:45:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=h-L6F4PHlOs

 

[P.S.]

There's no reason to carry a complete spare carb. Nothing in them will fail, or wear out on a trip. They might leak on occasion, or plug with something, but that's it.

The spare carb is not for myself. When one car breaks down, we all have to stop. I want to get back on the road, so when a Tillotson on another car fails, I grab my spare Zenith, slap it on there, and away we go. When we get to our destination, I grab the carb back.

 

[Gil Sissons]

I also carry a contractor strength garbage bag.
Takes up almost no room.... nice to lay it down on the ground if you need to crawl under.

Gil. NoCal

 

[Hitman]

The spare carb is not for myself. When one car breaks down, we all have to stop. I want to get back on the road, so when a Tillotson on another car fails, I grab my spare Zenith, slap it on there, and away we go. When we get to our destination, I grab the carb back.

Carbs will experience more wear under the seat of a car than on the engine. I can drop and clean the carb quicker than you can removing, finding the spare and bolting the replacement on.

The needle valve will wear out through normal vibrations while riding under the seat as a spare. Only dirt will cause the issue on the road.

 

[BRENT in 10-uh-C]

You know, something hit me about this thread regarding this topic, -and I wish my Dad were still around to answer some questions, but as I recall from way back in the 1960s, there were cars that were restored and then there were new(er) club members that had found old used Model-As that were worn in many mechanical areas that were attending on club tours. More & more cars would break down on the tour, and my Dad and a few others were there to 'bail them out' with parts, tools, & knowledge. think this is where the extra parts & tools mindset started becoming popular. Then during the late 70's in the Houston Club, there were more members with unreliable cars than their were with reliable ones so members started driving modern cars to club outings. I can remember Dad and Bill Coleman talking about this and so the club made a push on hosting Work Days each month where club members brought their cars to these workshops to start rebuilding & repairing their cars so they would become reliable.

I say all of that to for folks to understand that the idea of someone having to carry that much 'stuff' just to make a trip really just shows the car itself needs to be repaired correctly BEFORE it driven anywhere. Going back to 1931, the large majority of people did not travel with that amount of 'stuff' in their Model-As. In today's world, the same should apply. If folks do not have the ability (skills and/or financially) to properly repair their vehicle, then I do not see the logic in taking a long trip. Now I realize this probably is not a popular opinion, but sometimes we need to be realistic and be good stewards of these vehicles.

 

[Bob Bidonde]

These are my recommendations for touring:

 

[Y-Blockhead]

I say all of that to for folks to understand that the idea of someone having to carry that much 'stuff' just to make a trip really just shows the car itself needs to be repaired correctly BEFORE it driven anywhere. Going back to 1931, the large majority of people did not travel with that amount of 'stuff' in their Model-As. In today's world, the same should apply. If folks do not have the ability (skills and/or financially) to properly repair their vehicle, then I do not see the logic in taking a long trip. Now I realize this probably is not a popular opinion, but sometimes we need to be realistic and be good stewards of these vehicles.

Well said Brent. My thought exactly. I send out reminders before the date of the tour so people have time to check their cars so we don't have any "Roadside Seminars". If people would maintain their cars properly and check hoses, belts, tightness of bolts, fluids, etc. before a tour, these cars should not be any less reliable than a Modern, IMO. Most rarely listen...

These are my recommendations for touring:

Some of those plus my tool 'kit'. The Knipex Plier Wrench fits nut size up to 1½".

 

[P.S.]

Carbs will experience more wear under the seat of a car than on the engine. I can drop and clean the carb quicker than you can removing, finding the spare and bolting the replacement on.

The needle valve will wear out through normal vibrations while riding under the seat as a spare. Only dirt will cause the issue on the road.

Then, how do you transform the warped Tillotson carb on the car in front of you that keeps making everyone stop into a reliable Zenith?

I disagree that a carb wears more under the seat. I have had a rebuilt Zenith under the seat for a decade that I pulled out and swapped on a car, it still looked and ran perfect on the guy's car. I soak them in oil before putting them in the plastic tupperware container. Is that why I have had so much success with them?

 

[BRENT in 10-uh-C]

Then, how do you transform the warped Tillotson carb on the car in front of you that keeps making everyone stop into a reliable Zenith?

I disagree that a carb wears more under the seat. I have had a rebuilt Zenith under the seat for a decade that I pulled out and swapped on a car, it still looked and ran perfect on the guy's car. I soak them in oil before putting them in the plastic tupperware container. Is that why I have had so much success with them?

Paul, about a warped Tillotson, -I guess my thoughts are that surely the engine ran well enough to make part of the tour, ...so 'bandaid' the Tillotson enough to finish the tour or tell the owner to call a tow truck to haul him home where he can exchange it for a rebuilt correct Zenith. For yourself, use that plastic container containing the rebuild Zenith to house the items that Bob suggested above.

FWIW, in my line of work I probably field as many technical questions as you, and what I generally find is everyone wants to modify their car for the sake of "Touring" yet when all of these poor quality aftermarket parts go south, then they want someone to come to their rescue. I sure don't see many cast iron Zenith carburetors warping. I NEVER hear of a "electronic module" inside of a stock Model-A distributor failing, ...and a properly rebuilt generator will provide years upon years of troublefree service. For everything else, if folks would either properly restore their vehicle or abstain from making long tours until it is, it sure would make the trips more enjoyable for others, -and likely safer too.

 

[JayJay]

Things I’ve either had, or traveling companions have had, fail on the road that I’ve not seen mentioned:

—Timing gear (and gaskets to replace it)
—Radiator hoses and clamps
—Radiator cap gasket
—Sediment bowl gasket (for after you pull it out to remove the accumulated crud)
—Front wheel bearings

To keep it simple I carry an assortment of combination wrenches, screwdrivers, pliers, punches and chisels, as well as a 3/8” drive socket set (all extra stuff I had around the shop). I also carry a spare distributor, spare water pump, full set of engine gaskets and a few other gaskets like sediment bowl and radiator cap. I also carry a multimeter and some scraps of electrical wire. Electrical tape, baling wire, hose clamps and JB Weld. And that timing gear special socket.

Something I just found is a compact floor jack from Harbor Fright. Couple of pieces of plywood scrap to put under it. And a small plastic tarp.

Compact battery jump box that doubles as a cell phone recharger. Battery powered tire inflator that also doubles as a cell phone recharger.

Wow, looking back on that, looks like I’m getting ready to go to war!

 

[Hitman]

Then, how do you transform the warped Tillotson carb on the car in front of you that keeps making everyone stop into a reliable Zenith?

I disagree that a carb wears more under the seat. I have had a rebuilt Zenith under the seat for a decade that I pulled out and swapped on a car, it still looked and ran perfect on the guy's car. I soak them in oil before putting them in the plastic tupperware container. Is that why I have had so much success with them?

You leave the tillotson at home. It was warped before it went on the tour, so as mentioned you bandaid it and move along.

The needle and seat do wear when sitting under the seat for any amount of time. It's vibrating and moving with each bump in the road. Carbs don't fail on the road, it was improperly built/assembled before a tour. Dirt is likely the cause of the issue, and most replace the carb rather than diagnose and fix the cause. I'm not saying carbs under the seat aren't used on tours, they just aren't needed. The jets aren't failing, the linkage isn't failing; it's usually dirt and that's easily fixed.

 

[nkaminar]

Even though your car is in excellent shape, it is prudent to carry a set of tools and spare parts that have a reputation for failing. One thing that comes to mind is the clutch disengagement lever, the one that has a tendency to crack at the pin. After all, Ford supplied a tool kit with the car.

Driving your car on a regular basis will work out any problems with it before any long trips. Don't store your car in the garage and then expect it to preform on a tour.

In 1930 you could pull into a Ford dealer if you needed a part. But now most of use have to order over the internet and wait a few days. One idea is to carry a list of club members in the towns you will be traveling through. Ones who are likely to have spare parts.

 

[P.S.]

Things I’ve either had, or traveling companions have had, fail on the road that I’ve not seen mentioned:

—Timing gear (and gaskets to replace it)
—Radiator hoses and clamps
—Radiator cap gasket
—Sediment bowl gasket (for after you pull it out to remove the accumulated crud)
—Front wheel bearings
...

That is exactly what I bring along, with minor modification to one item- I bring a whole radiator cap and gasket. After having one stolen off my car in a hotel parking lot on an overnight tour.

Except for a roadside distributor swap about 5 years ago, thankfully, none of the spare parts in my kit have ever been needed for my own car while on tour. By the way- The front wheel bearings is SPOT ON! Shocking how many people never grease the front wheel bearings and drive all over the countryside on dry bearings. I'm getting pretty good at replacing them on the side of the road now (on other people's cars). I store them pre-packed in plastic vacuum bags with the air removed.

 

[P.S.]

You leave the tillotson at home. It was warped before it went on the tour, so as mentioned you bandaid it and move along.

The needle and seat do wear when sitting under the seat for any amount of time. It's vibrating and moving with each bump in the road. Carbs don't fail on the road, it was improperly built/assembled before a tour. Dirt is likely the cause of the issue, and most replace the carb rather than diagnose and fix the cause. I'm not saying carbs under the seat aren't used on tours, they just aren't needed. The jets aren't failing, the linkage isn't failing; it's usually dirt and that's easily fixed.

I don't use, or own a Tillotson. I am talking about other people. Back to my original point, which I believe has been lost on this tough crowd- I carry parts for OTHER PEOPLE's cars because it only takes one in a group tour that breaks down, and we all have to pull over and have a "roadside seminar". In the interest of time, I carry stuff so that I can get the other cars going again so we eventually reach our destination and don't have to scrap a trip.

This is a very tough crowd. Why so negative when someone wants to be extra prepared??

 

[nkaminar]

So, one thing to do is to always go on tours with Paul, and drive in front of him so that he can repair your car when it breaks.