Tool advice

[JM 35 Sedan]

I have used a small track rod end tool like pictured above, successfully. I have also used the two big hammers method less successfully.

I wonder, though, how one would tackle a 37-40 type rear shock link where it attaches to the rear spring perch.

Exactly Mart....this would also include the 35-36 rear links where they attach similarly to the back of the rear radius rods. Two "big f...... hammers" won't work there either

You can't really get both sides of the hole for the hammers, the tool won't fit, so I suppose it would come down to the back the nut off and give it a good whack with a hammer, or a pickle fork tool.

I back the nut off 2-3 turns, then place the end of a section of aluminum bar stock (~1-1/2" diameter by ~10" - 12" long) against the nut, and give the other end of the bar a good wack with a 2-1/2 lb hammer. This has worked every time for me. Also, I don't like using a pickle fork to remove these shock links if I plan to reuse them because if they are very tight in the tapers, this usually ruins them, especially the two piece dog bone versions.

If I were to use the hit the nut directly type technique I would try and find an acorn nut or closed end lugnut so I could hit it without hitting the threads.

Mart.

I totally agree with you Mart

 

[V8COOPMAN]

Hammer or any heavy steel on one side of the loop diameter and hit with hammer on the other side of the loop diameter.

Possibly, this picture may help clear-up the "two hammer" method. The "loop" is the tapered female part in the equation. Don't be afraid to whang the piss out of it with your "hammer-hitting" technique. DD

 

[Russ/40]

Me too. No distorted hole after you get done and wondering why a new tapered part doesn't seat.

That is never a problem. The distortion is momentary. Never any residual change to the taper.
Also, it saves the cup seal from ruin you will get with a pickle fork.

 

[Rustedjunk]

I got them out, but it took some heat to do it. I had to pound them out by hitting the stud. The parts were almost 60+ years old based on the condition.

 

[JM 35 Sedan]

8

I got them out, but it took some heat to do it. I had to pound them out by hitting the stud. The parts were almost 60+ years old based on the condition.

I don't recall ever needing to use heat to remove the tapered shafts of a shock link, based on using the method I described in my previous post on this thread, but then maybe I've just been lucky all these years of owning and working on early Fords

 

[JMFL36]

Thanks for the photo V8COOPMAN. Replacing the shock links is on my '36 coupe to-do list. It looks like fun, so I might even move it to the top of the list.

 

[drolston]

What website is that tool on?

Just Google Tie Rod End Tool. Available many places.

 

[russcc]

The idea of the hammers is great, but often times there is not enough room to swing. This is what I have been using for years for Ford tapered seats like tie-rod ends, shock links and stabilizer connectors. This is a KD 3916, ball joint separator available through multiple sources like Sears, Amazon etc. Works every time, often with an assist from the blue wrench. For all the use I have given it, for $25., it has be the best tool money I ever spent.

 

[cmbrucew]

ttps://www.ebay.com/itm/Pickle-Fork-Set-including-Air-Hammer-Adapter/352342068517?hash=item5209394d25:g:jRMAAOSwWxNatu4A
Here is a tool that sometimes works for me.
Bruce

 

[fordor41]

I've had good luck placing a block of wood between the frame and the link. loosen the bolt a turn or two and smack the stud . they usually pop loose. I also coat the taper with anti-seize when reassembling.