Toein

You will get extreme wear on your tires in a short period, let alone the increased wear on the front bearings. It would probably zig and zag with every uneven surface of the road.
Jeff
 
Learn how to read your tires. Using your finger, check out the edges of your thread pattern parallel to the side of the tire. If the inside edge is sharp compared to a more rounded outside edge, you have too much toe in. If the outside edge is sharp compared to a more rounded inside edge, you have too much toe out. If both edges feel slightly rounded, your toe in is set correctly.
 
I can tell you from experience that it will EAT your tires. However, I found that the car handled okay in spite of the excessive toe. I think the previous owner intentionally adjusted the toe in so extremely to eliminate a front end wobble. I brought the wishbone ball back to original and redid the kingpins. After that, I set the toe where it should be and the wobble was no longer an issue.

Ken
 
louieglen said:
How does a car drive with too much toein, I mean like 3/4 of an inch? Thanks
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'how does car drive' ?
You will not enjoy driving a car in such condition.
This discourages usage and also is a safety issue.
Also, adds to wear/tear on vehicle parts and hard wear on tires !
 
Might be someones "fix" for sloppy front end parts so by the time the car is moving the slack is taken out.

But yes what has been said is all true - also it wouldn't coast very well at that much toe.

first thing id do is jack up each side and pull and tug on the wheel to see if theres any slop in the kingpins/steering linkages and fix all that stuff first as resetting the toe isnt fixing a potential problem.
 
3/4 inch toe in will make the car plough forward.

Chop out the insides of the tyres, but will steer somewhat Ok (straight).

3/4 inch toe out, will make the car wander and dart either way at the slightest road undulation and will chop the outsides of the tyres out.
 
easy to adjust the toe-in with a home made jig. Mark the center line of tire treads with masking tape (on a level floor) and equal vertical measurements both sides to floor as close to axle center as possible. Push car forward or back for front or rear measurement marks on tape to 1/16 to 1/8" more at tire rear. Also, vendors or internet have gauges. See the Service Bulletins to see how high up from floor marks should be to clear the radius rods, etc..
Others may have different methods
 
I set mine at 1/16 plus or minus 1/32 . If a person isn't use to setting toe in it would be best to hav it checked and adjusted at a good front end alignment shop .

Correct toein helps keep the wheels going in a straight line . Toe out will usually cause shimmy or death wobble . Too much toe in will cause drag and tire wear . Three quarter inch toein would cause noticeable power loss .
 
I jist "eyeball" it & if tires wear EVEN, I jist fergit it.---YES, UR tires can "talk" to you, jist like my Dog "talks" to me---LOL
Lazy Mayor Bill W.
 
I bungey cord a 6 ft straight edge to each front wheel, so they stick out the front .

Sit the out front lengths on 2 milkcrates .

The distance where toe in is measured is about 26 inches (for a 21 inch wheel) at the tyre walls.

I simply put 2 marks out front on the straight edges 26 inches apart and measure there.

No need to move car or crawl under it to measure.
 
Try two, 15 Foot 2 X 4s, placed alongside the front & rear tires???---"About" as accurate as some other "strange" methods.
Ever hear about Front End Alignment Shops???
Bill Sawone!
 
Bill in post 14 is correct; we use 2x's to help insure the front/ back wheels are in line with each other.
 
While the 2x4 method seems like a very good idea, go to the local building supply and try to find (2) 16 footers that are STRAIGHT. Better take a good pair of gloves and lunch, you are going to be there awhile.
 
And IS a model A the same track front and back exactly ?

If it was from the factory, too many variables now anyway.

Firstly the 2X4 would have to be mid height on the wheels, as the front has camber and the top and bottom of the tyre are not the same distance apart from side to side.

And secondly, what if the rear axle taper is worn and the hub is further on, again changing track.
 
Purdy Swoft said:
I agree , The yard man will always try to put the crooked lumber off on you .
Click to expand...
I purposely bought the REAL Crookedy Lumber, CHEAP & built RUSTIC lookin' BENCHES/ETC & salvaged through their "throw away" bin, for FREEBIES.
I also hung around the lot, lookin' for someone with a purchase that wouldn't fit in their car & made $$$$$$s, hauling it for them:D I should have bought an "AA" Flatbed!
Bill Moneyhungry
 
pooch said:
And IS a model A the same track front and back exactly ?

If it was from the factory, too many variables now anyway.

Firstly the 2X4 would have to be mid height on the wheels, as the front has camber and the top and bottom of the tyre are not the same distance apart from side to side.

And secondly, what if the rear axle taper is worn and the hub is further on, again changing track.
Click to expand...
WELL, Pooch,
I'm CROOKEDY, from Polio, in 1937, but I get by fairly well:D
Bill Leaning
 
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