Toe-In adjustment - Tool Thought

Mike in NRN IN

Mike in NRN IN

Senior Member
I was digging around the local hardware store and saw one of the digital laser measuring tools. They had several - ranging in accuracy and price.

The +/- 1/16" device was on sale for $69.

This got me to thinking that this might be a good way to measure toe-in. Has anybody done this with the electronic device and if so, any advice?

I know that I can get a special tool for the job for about the same price, but I might be able to 'convince' my wife that the electronic tool is much better for planning the next home improvement project.

:D
 
I made a guage out of plywood and moveable dowels that fits under the trans and wishbone so I can measure half way up the inside of the front tires. Works great.
 
glenn in camino said:
I made a guage out of plywood and moveable dowels that fits under the trans and wishbone so I can measure half way up the inside of the front tires. Works great.
Click to expand...

I don't think the measurement specs are to come from half way up the tire. It the height of the chains, whatever that is, 8"?
 
Last edited:
It helps if you have previously jacked and spun the wheels to look for and mark any out-of-line slightly bent wheels. Compensate by marking the center or neutral range of any toe in/out wobble.

I use two three foot pieces of 1/2" conduit (EMT), a set of wood blocks for height and some bungee chords through the wheels to hold the conduit to the inside of the tires.

Setup takes about 5 minutes. Then I spend a half-hour looking for one of the half-dozen tape measures I own. Finally I yell "Debbie, have you seen. . ." and she instantly hands me three. I believe she collects and hides them as some kind of control ritual.
 
The easiest way is to use a set of toe-in plates. One person can set up and have the initial measurement made in about 1 - 2 minutes.

.
 

Attachments

  • !BRm11J!BWk~$(KGrHgoH-CIEjlLl26,yBJ-5kLIC9Q~~_12.JPG
    !BRm11J!BWk~$(KGrHgoH-CIEjlLl26,yBJ-5kLIC9Q~~_12.JPG
    22.9 KB · Views: 127
Brent , could you explain more on how these work please ? Measurements, etc.
I use a threaded brake rod with ajustable pointers on each end , However toe in plates i have not heard off hence more info please , Thanks , one is never to old too learn, Or go faster ?? Derek from a wet NZ ,winter closing in . Bugger.
 
I agree on the toe in plates Brent mentioned. We use them on the race cars all the time. You lean them up against the outside of tires and there's a slot in each end of each plate to slide tape measure into. The kits usually come with the 2 tape measures. Makes adjusting toe a breeze.
 
Using a fixed height toe plate to set toe in should be done with caution.

Toe in dimensions should always be accompanied by the height from the ground for the dimension specified, because if you are wanting to set the toe in with a set of toe-plates that are 8" tall on a set of tires that are 32" in diameter, your toe in figure set at 1/16" (measured at the plate) is actually 1/8" (measured at the tire center line). Another issue when using toe plates is that when you set the plate against the sidewall of the tire, you are not accounting for sidewall runout or slight imperfections in mounting. This will drive you crazy if you do not set the side plates in EXACTLY the same place on the same tire.

I think I may have posted earlier some where that I set the toe in by jacking the tire up off the ground and using a screwdriver edge, scribe a line around the entire circumference of the tire while holding the screwdriver in a fixture to keep it in one place. This makes a line at the ACTUAL position of the tires rotation. Do this to both tires, set the car on the ground, and roll the car rearward at least one whole tire diameter. Then roll it forward to the original spot and measure the toe in/out my reading the dimension between the scribed lines. If you make an adjustment, be sure to roll the back, then forward to EXACTLY the same spot each time.

All this manuevering accounts for distorted firewalls, inconcise mounting, 'play' in the tie rods, spindle bearings and steering arms and provides the correct adjustment for when the car is actually moving forward.

This approach was derived as an attempt to minimize straightaway drag on an asphault race car, but is not near as critical on a dirt car, in my humble opinion, and a narrow Model A tire has a minimal contact patch making it not be a huge issue.

As always, this is just a thought!
 
Last edited:
Mine is the same as Marc's and works very well with 6 " chains attached to the ends. Cost - about $20.

I think that a digital measuring tool would be very awkward to use since you have to measure the same spot front and back and at the same height front and back.

Dick
 
RockHillWill said:
Using a fixed height toe plate to set toe in should be done with caution.

Toe in dimensions should always be accompanied by the height from the ground for the dimension specified, because if you are wanting to set the toe in with a set of toe-plates that are 8" tall on a set of tires that are 32" in diameter, your toe in figure set at 1/16" (measured at the plate) is actually 1/8" (measured at the tire center line). Another issue when using toe plates is that when you set the plate against the sidewall of the tire, you are not accounting for sidewall runout or slight imperfections in mounting. This will drive you crazy if you do not set the side plates in EXACTLY the same place on the same tire.

I think I may have posted earlier some where that I set the toe in by jacking the tire up off the ground and using a screwdriver edge, scribe a line around the entire circumference of the tire while holding the screwdriver in a fixture to keep it in one place. This makes a line at the ACTUAL position of the tires rotation. Do this to both tires, set the car on the ground, and roll the car rearward at least one whole tire diameter. Then roll it forward to the original spot and measure the toe in/out my reading the dimension between the scribed lines. If you make an adjustment, be sure to roll the back, then forward to EXACTLY the same spot each time.

All this manuevering accounts for distorted firewalls, inconcise mounting, 'play' in the tie rods, spindle bearings and steering arms and provides the correct adjustment for when the car is actually moving forward.

This approach was derived as an attempt to minimize straightaway drag on an asphault race car, but is not near as critical on a dirt car, in my humble opinion, and a narrow Model A tire has a minimal contact patch making it not be a huge issue.

As always, this is just a thought!
Click to expand...

This is exactly how I have done it for years, with good results.

I can see the toe in plate working though as it appears that the plates are the same length as the diameter of the tire so when the outside of the plate is measured it replicates the OD of the tire.
 
Will is 110% correct in his response above however I would like to add my opinion to his thoughts.

Yes I agree toe-in plates are not completely accurate, however they will get the numbers within specs 95 out of 100 times on a Model-A front end. I liken this much like torque wrench specs for Model-As fasteners. Yes it is cool to have a repeatable exact target to tighten each fastener to, yet is it really that critical to be that exacting? What is to be gained, ...especially if other areas are not perfect or 100% in tolerance?
,
Since most Model-A wheels are at the max, --or exceed the original specs as far as run-out is concerned, even if you establish the true centerline of the tire, there still will be tire wear from the wheel's run-out (wobble). Apply this same mindset to hand layed-up nylon corded tires (i.e.: Firestone & Goodyear) and you definitely will see tread distortion and run-out. I guess my philosophy is 'It doesn't really need to be perfect, when Good is Good Enuf!'.

.
 
So I was looking for the height spec last nite(didn't get to les Andrews) but couldn't find it elsewhere. Anyone know where this info is??
 
Chuck, there is discussion of this in the Service Bulletins. Basically the specs are 1/16th (+/- 1/32) measured 6" up from the floor.
 
Chuck Sea/Tac said:
So I was looking for the height spec last nite(didn't get to les Andrews) but couldn't find it elsewhere. Anyone know where this info is??
Click to expand...

My old Snap On toe in guage is 9 3/8". Marco posted the height several months ago, and I'm thinking it was 8 1/2".

I like to roll the car forward and measure the same spot, so a bent rim won't throw off the measurement.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top