Toe In Adjustment Question
- Thread starter 19Fordy
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Frank Miller
Well-known member
It means the wheels measured at a point half way up the wheel is 1/16 of an inch less in the front than in the back.
Ford46
Senior Member
bobH, I'm confused about your question. Are you asking can you have one wheel perfectly straight and the other toed in 1/16 of an inch? My thought is I'm glad your buying the tires. Or, are you asking why there is there a need for toe in?
Been driving my old Fords with straight axles for a while now and they seem very comfortable with 1/8" of toe in. That is, I put a tape measure across the back as high as I can get, usually constrained by the wishbone depending on the size tire and drop of the axle. Then, at the front of the tires I use the same reference points that I measured from in the back but 1/8" less on the tape measure. Ain't rocket science, but my cars track OK, steering pressure does not seem excessive, and wear seems fine. Wear is the tough one, because realistically, we don't drive these old cars enough usually to tell. That is, the tires usually show signs of cracking and rot before tread wear.
oldford2
Well-known member
OK folks, Here is a high tech method of adjusting toe-in. The book says 1/16" but you will find this is hard to get exact. But, it should be toe-in to assure better tracking down the road. First jack the front axle so the wheels are free to turn. Then clean the tread so masking tape will stick and wrap the center of both tires with tape. Then have your wife spin the tires slowly while you are very steadily holding a fine tip marker against the approx center of the tire. Then take the high tech wooden "gage" and line it up against the rear of the tire and mark on it where the lines from each tire hit. Then move it to the front and the 2 lines on the wheels should be slightly less than the 2 lines on the "gage" (toe-in). Adjust the drag link until you have the proper toe-in. Now, this only works if your front end is tight (steering box, tie rod ends, king pins). John
Ross in East Texas
Senior Member
I have always run 1/8" on my '39 Coupe and it tracked very well with good tire life.
cvstl
Member
Point not mentioned above..... the measurements need to be taken with the weight of the car on the tires. So, once you get the reference line, you need to drop the car back to the floor to measure.
Another easy way to measure is with a plumb bob, using reference marks on the floor. You need a good quality bob, though... not the freebies that come with the DIY deck building kit.
Another easy way to measure is with a plumb bob, using reference marks on the floor. You need a good quality bob, though... not the freebies that come with the DIY deck building kit.
I bought a tool from Dick Spadaro years ago to adjust toe on a '39 Ford wagon. It's similar to oldford2's homemade tool, but it connects together with a piece of conduit and is adjustable for different vehicles. Adjusted the toe-in at 1/8".
The instructions , if I remember correctly, tell you to have the car on the ground, take a measurement from the rear of the tire, and then roll the car forward to "load" the tie rod and then take your measurement from the front of the tire. I remember it was important to "load the tie rod", etc.
I know I drove that car quite a bit and it tracked straight and the tires didn't show any strange wear pattern. Nice tool, still have it.
The instructions , if I remember correctly, tell you to have the car on the ground, take a measurement from the rear of the tire, and then roll the car forward to "load" the tie rod and then take your measurement from the front of the tire. I remember it was important to "load the tie rod", etc.
I know I drove that car quite a bit and it tracked straight and the tires didn't show any strange wear pattern. Nice tool, still have it.
Ross in East Texas
Senior Member
True, it is good to take measurements at the attitude that the wheels operate. In reality, it probably isn't as important to have the weight on the wheels on a straight axle as it is an independent suspension vehicle. The geometry differences of an independent front suspension between loaded and unloaded just aren't there on a straight axle vehicle.
Cecil/WV
Well-known member
The gauge I have used has 2 chains, one on each end, and you put the gauge on the front with the chains touching the floor and then roll the car forward until the chains are touching the floor on the rear side and read the difference. A tape measure with 2 people is just as good.
Milt/Las Vegas
Senior Member
AL N,I would love to have a toe in tool like I think you're describing,but have been unable to find one.Could we see a pic of yours?
Another minor detail.... The old-timers would always roll the car back on the rack a foot or so, then roll the car forward a foot or so, before making the measurement. The idea here, is to 'tension' the steering components in the same way they are tensioned with toe-in, as you drive down the road. It's supposed to take up the 'wear-slop', if there are any worn components. JMO, based on hanging around an old (very old) alignment shop about 50 years ago.
Ford46
Senior Member
A lot of the old alignment shops also had a toe in guage that you drove over to get to the alignment rack. As you (actually they) drove over it, the toe in was measured.
Most good shops checked it anyway, but they knew right away if there was an issue.
I know one old shop that still has that old scuff guage, they also still have all the tools to bend the straight axle if caster and/or camber needs attention. He said he hasn't used any of that tooling in years. LouB.
Most good shops checked it anyway, but they knew right away if there was an issue.
I know one old shop that still has that old scuff guage, they also still have all the tools to bend the straight axle if caster and/or camber needs attention. He said he hasn't used any of that tooling in years. LouB.