Toe-End Gauge

R

rfitzpatrick

Well-known member
I'v the 'toe-end gauge' for my PicUp, it's '31. I don't understand the concept . What causes the toe-in to change? When I follow the instructions, it's a 'push-pull' adjustment (from my point of view), but all the attach points are secured with cotter pins. So how did the adjustment change? What happen? Are they that easy to get out of alignment? I do have new king-pins.

Now I'm having a very rough day -- plz be kind/thoughtful, I'm confused too
 
There should be a rod going across under the truck from one wheel to the other. Once you loosen the clamps, you can twist the rod with vice-grips or channel locks and it will pull in or push out the toe-in. Don't forget to tighten the clamps when done. I didn't want to spend the money on a fancy gauge, so I used a shower curtain rod and a sharpie pen to mark the difference from front to back on the front wheels. I adjusted the rod until both readings were equal. It may not be as accurate as the gauge, but it fixed a horrible wheel wobble while driving. I put the shower curtain rod back when done and my wife never knew. LOL

Edit: After re-reading your post, I think you are asking why the Toe-in changes. Just like on modern cars...rough roads, pot holes and such can flex or loosen the components and change the alignment.
 
Last edited:
Last winter I installed EZ steers in the drag link and tie rod. When it was all together, cotters in the ends etc. I set the toe in with the gauge. All was well until I got the bright idea that maybe I should go just a bit tighter on the plugs at the ends of the TIE ROD. I don't recall how much I tightened them, but when I finished, I somehow convinced myself that it wasn't enough to affect the toe in????

Wrong, the car shimmied for the first time ever on a good road at about 40mph! When we got home I checked the toe and it was 1/2". I reset it to the 1/16th toe in and all has been well since. Many many miles. Rookie mistake for sure.
 
The tie-rod which connects the two wheels to each other. It has a righthand thread on one side and a lefthand thread on the other. This allows the rod to be turned in either direction. The tie-rod ends have clamps that hold the threaded rod from turning after it is adjusted. You loosen those clamps on both sides and turn the rod, one direction will pull the tie-rod ends towards each other which shortens the distance between the spindle arms. This causes the front sides of the tires to toe-out the further you turn the rod. The other direction will push the ends away from each other causing the front of the tires to toe-in towards each other. You set the toe-in and then tighten the clamps back up.

We had a 1950s Snap-On toe-in gauge at work. It sat on elevated cast stands so you were always measuring from the same height whether you were in front or back of the tires. You slid it behind the front tires. Loosened the measuring scale and sat it to zero and tightened it. Then you loosen the cast stand that slid on the tubing connecting it to the other stand, The sliding stand was the one with the gauge. Still set to zero, you slid it against the sidewall and then locked down that sliding bracket. Now you loosen the gauge that was at zero so i the gauge can move and the bracket its part of. Pull the assembly out and stick it in front of the tires and move the gaugeuntil it just touches the sidewall. The gauge will tell you in which direction and how much you had to move it to get it to touch the sideall. Very simple tool to use. You could literally check the toe-in in just a couple of minutes. A little longer as I got older and it got harder to get off the ground. We set the toe-in at an 1/8" and that was close enough for fleet work. Did not matter what we were working on they usually all got 1/8" toe-in.

I have been looking for one of those vintage Snap-On toe-in gauges ever since I retired, and I cannot find one. It was well made and designed to last forever. It had two cast iron stands that slide over each end on a piece of 1" square tubing and maybe held it 5-inches off the ground. Low enough that the entire thing could be slid under a vehicle behind the tires. I could make one but I'd like to find an original.
 
x2 with stick, rough roads, pot holes and such can flex or loosen the components and change the alignment.
 
Anytime the frontend is worked on the toe-in needs to be checked. Once set properly it doesn't change unless there is wear or damage on the component parts.
 
rfitzpatrick said:
I'v the 'toe-end gauge' for my PicUp, it's '31. I don't understand the concept . What causes the toe-in to change? When I follow the instructions, it's a 'push-pull' adjustment (from my point of view), but all the attach points are secured with cotter pins. So how did the adjustment change? What happen? Are they that easy to get out of alignment? I do have new king-pins.

Now I'm having a very rough day -- plz be kind/thoughtful, I'm confused too
Click to expand...



I guess I don't understand your problem. Maybe a picture of your toe bar would help. When checking the toe, always roll vehicle forward and push out slightly the front of the tires/wheels. I set it at 1/32-1/16" .

When making an adjustment, the tie rod is turned [ one end right thread, other end left thread]. The tie rods ends are not removed.
 
Patrick
The video #7 is what I'm using. The tie-rod must be the weak point, didn't know the changes to the toe-end can happen with the streets of today. I'm gonna need to give that much more attention once my new tires are installed. Apparently I've to do that check much more often.
Tks
 
A couple years ago I posted a thread about a simple toe-in gauge that I made from PVC. It might help here. In the search function above put in "Simple to make and use Toe-In gauge" It should come right up
 
I'm not sure why folks even use a toe in gauge. A simple tape measure will do the same thing, even faster. Measure between the tires 6" above the floor, lock your tape, move the car till that spot is 6" above the floor in back and recheck.
 
whirnot said:
I'm not sure why folks even use a toe in gauge. A simple tape measure will do the same thing, even faster. Measure between the tires 6" above the floor, lock your tape, move the car till that spot is 6" above the floor in back and recheck.
Click to expand...

Because you need really loonngg arms to hold the tape on one tire and read the measurement on the other tire. :rolleyes:
 
Toe plates can be simple wood or some bent aluminum plate to stand by themselves. Keep them pushed against the tire and throw a brick on them for some weight and measure away, hook tape on one side and read the other. Go high-tech with two tape measures ( one front and one back) and a helper to turn the tie rod while you read the tapes :)
 

Attachments

  • 20230410_171736.jpg
    20230410_171736.jpg
    23.5 KB · Views: 49
  • 20230410_171637.jpg
    20230410_171637.jpg
    35.5 KB · Views: 45
  • 20230410_171624.jpg
    20230410_171624.jpg
    36.3 KB · Views: 43
I typed in Snap-on tope gauge on Google, and somebody is making a copy on the one I described above, only this one is not as beefy as the 1950s one we at work other that its the same. I have an old Bea Alignment one from at least the 1920s or 1930w out in the garage that I've never used. I like collect old tools for garage art.
 

Attachments

  • trammel.jpg
    trammel.jpg
    15.2 KB · Views: 32
Last edited:
I bought some used tires, put them on the front, and the front end wobbled bad. I switched the tires from left to right and the wobbling stopped. Didn't need to realign the frontend.
 
Phil Brown said:
Toe plates can be simple wood or some bent aluminum plate to stand by themselves. Keep them pushed against the tire and throw a brick on them for some weight and measure away, hook tape on one side and read the other. Go high-tech with two tape measures ( one front and one back) and a helper to turn the tie rod while you read the tapes :)
Click to expand...

I'll have to steal that!
 
A few things will change the toe-in. As the front end parts wear that will change it. If you hit a curb or deep pot hole that will change it. Because of the camber, if the caster changes, perhaps due to the wishbone ball at the bell housing wearing, that will change it.
 
Y-Blockhead said:
Because you need really loonngg arms to hold the tape on one tire and read the measurement on the other tire. :rolleyes:
Click to expand...

It is less than 4'. Typical arm stretch is close to 6'.
As I said, lock the tape and then read it. I've been doing it that way for years.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top