To patch or replace frame crossmember?

Are you talking about the radiator support bracket as in post #41 of the Front Motor Mount 1956 Year with 302 thread? If so mine was attached with rubber doughnuts similar to what you see on shock absorbers One on top and one on the botom.
 
56sedandelivery said:
Okay will replace. Anyone have dealings with Goodell Fab front cross member? Seems to be the only ones that I can find.
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I did my cross member with a goodell piece and it fit like a glove! All the mounting points for the suspension were perfect. I used a cut off wheel, saws all and a dremel tool to cut the old one out. Never done anything like that before and was much easier than anticipated. I would recommend them to anyone needing this fix.
 
I recommend extreme caution and a step-by-step plan be drawn out PRIOR to proceeding with removal of old crossmember.


1) Drain engine coolant. Remove two bottom radiator support nuts, washers and springs. Remove four radiator side mounting bolts. Remove radiator hoses. Remove radiator completely.
2) Remove two big nuts and washers holding front A-arms to crossmember and drive out the two pins. Figure out some way to hold the front of the A-arms from falling (chains, jacks?).
3) Burn off existing welds holding crossmember to frame side-rails. Be sure to get all the welds. Bend out the tabs where the crossmember goes thru the slots in the frame siderails.
4) Get the new crossmember completely ready to be inserted in place (cleaning, painting, etc).
5) CAREFULLY get a long jack (like a house jack) and place it behind the existing crossmember between both frame siderails and spread the siderails apart just enough to pull the crossmember out. IMMEDIATELY insert the new crossmember into the frame and back the jack off while directing the tabs to go into the slots in the frame siderails. Old out and new in QUICKLY. Remove the house jack.
6) Bend the tabs over into the frame recesses in the frame siderails. Make sure you have a tight fit. It may be necessary now to get a beefed up window clamp to compress the siderails together as needed. Weld the new crossmember in as it was done originally.
7) Now push the two big pins into the holes in the crossmember and direct the front of the A-arms to mate with the holes. Don't forget to install the washers and collars here. Install the two big nuts and washers.
8) Re-install radiator and re-fill engine with coolant. DONE.
 
BTW, when driving the two pins out of the old crossmember, be sure to leave the nut on the end of the pins and use a large centerpunch. Doing this will prevent distorting of the threads. Thoroughly clean rust off the old pins using a wire wheel in a bench grinder.
I coated mine with cold-galvanizing compound after cleaning, then I rubbed lubriplate all over the pin to help prevent future corrosion.


Another comment....I don't see the advantage in saw cutting the old crossmember out. You still need to spread the two frame siderails apart to intall the new crossmember because of the tabs, so it doesn't really do anything for you except waste more time and use up expensive cutting discs. Right?
 
I had my engine out and suspension removed before supporting the inner fenders with upright and flat 2x4s. I then removed the two fender bolts closest to the core support and made a rod with a washer welded to each end and tied both fenders together. I then removed the core support, rad mount and all associated sheet metal. After that I had full access to the front cross member. After many careful measurements double and triple checked, I cut that sucker out and welded the new one in. With the supports I had put in, putting it all back together was pretty straight forward. The washers even "fit" the old marks they made on the sheet metal all those years ago when it was assembled. I will see how well I did when I take it to the alignment shop.
 
56sedandelivery said:
Being it is welded in both top and bottom how would you recommend removing the welds? Angle grinder?
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I've seen it done using acetylene torch (while the entire front clip was on the car). But the guy was good. Seemed to me that he had missed his true calling. And the old crossmember came out without being burned through anywhere. Now that's skill.
 
As far as I know, the new crossmembers available now don't have either the top piece for mounting the radiator and splash pan center support, nor the piece that wraps around the front in the middle and down to the bottom. So I guess, you gotta cut your old pieces off and weld them on to your new crossmember.
The one on my '55 Fairlane was replaced in 1982 by a Ford dealership at a cost of $110. It is a factory original replacement part. The one on my '55 Courier wagon may still be the original, but it is in good shape. That front crossmember was a factory recall due to rust-outs.
 
56sedandelivery said:
They have been available on ebay
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Not anymore,Goodell Fabrication has closed up shop after years in business and they are no longer available. Here is a blue print for a '54. See following post.
 

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"Fenders Bouncing"?

On my 56 Wagon, I found the front x member weld broken, I think it was the R side and a Shop welded it for me. The X Member appeared to be in good condition and the Shop said it was a common? issue on these cars.
It also became apparent something was missing, a Bracket that supported the front sheet metal to the frame. Looking at the solo eyelit on the front side of the X Member is the bolt up area to the underneath of the center line of rock shield, hood lock area.
The radiator frame was bolted to the rearward eyelits with hard rubber grommets, no springs, those were replaced also.
I don't know if I'm seeing bouncing fenders or the result of our poorly maintained roads here in CA. Any other conditions relate to bouncing fenders?
 

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