Tips on transmission removal 1954 Ford

KULTULZ said:
The 1954 WSM gives instructions in detail.

1955/ WSM description must have gone to the AT TRANS WSM.
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Let me qualify this-

The 1954 WSM gives TRANS R&R only. Any other procedure would be discussed in the TRANS WSM. The 1955 WSM did not include AUTO TRANS R&R. It went to the TRANS WSM.

STEVE O said:
Daves55Sedan thanks for the tips and suggestions. KULTULZ thanks for your attempts at posting the second page. If my son doesn't sell or trade this 54 in the next few weeks I will report back at how we get along.

Thanks

Steve
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If you like Steve, I can snail-mail the sheets if you trust me with your address ... :D

PM me ...
 
Concerning TORQUE CONVERTER RETENTION, it is clearly stated in the WSM (that Henry brought down from the mountain) -

CAUTION : Proper procedure must be taken to prevent the converter from slipping out of the housing when the transmission is removed.
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This is a CYA, especially if the converter wasn't drained before dropping the trans ... :eek:

It would seem to me that fabricating a small strap to keep the convertor from possibly sliding forward retained by a cap screw in a bell mounting hole would do it.

Wrestling this on the ground with only a floor jack is dangerous enough without taking all precautions.

Bell and Trans assy either slid back or rolled out of the way will give you the clearance need to access the plate.
 
Quote:
CAUTION : Proper procedure must be taken to prevent the converter from slipping out of the housing when the transmission is removed.


I guess I'm going to have to unbolt the old TC I have and slide it onto the old transmission input shaft to see if there is any snap ring locking it in like '60s GM automatics I am famiiar with. All I know is once I installed the rebuilt TC onto the rebuilt transmission I didn't give a second thought to if it would slide back off while manuevering it to bolt up to the engine.

" No attachment of the converter to the main trans. Power is transferred to the converter via the splines on the input shaft of the main trans. "

You are somewhat correct Paul. Power is transferred FROM the TC to the transmission via the splined shaft. Remember, the engine is spinning the TC outer shell. The innards, obviously with some type of magic, turn a gizmo inside the TC that is connected to the input shaft. The input shaft then sends the power to the transmission which has it's own magical gizmos that shift gears and get the power to the driveshaft. The point was, unbolting the TC from the flexplate will not result in the TC falling into the bottom of the bellhousing.
 
If you unbolt the trans case from the bellhousing and slide it back, how are you going to get the input shaft splines and the stator support splines lined back up with the internal torque converter splines? Plus, you need to have the front pump drive tangs lined up with the pump gear. Have fun! It's doable, but it'd usually be quicker to pull the engine.
 
40 Deluxe said:
If you unbolt the trans case from the bellhousing and slide it back, how are you going to get the input shaft splines and the stator support splines lined back up with the internal torque converter splines? Plus, you need to have the front pump drive tangs lined up with the pump gear. Have fun! It's doable, but it'd usually be quicker to pull the engine.
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I don't recall anyone recommending unbolting the transmission from the bell housing. Why would you do that if the mission is to slide the bellhousing rearward enough to unbolt the flexplate?
 
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KULTULZ said:
Watch this short and it will explain the TORQUE CONVERTER. While this is not exactly the converter style being discussed, it should give a basic understanding.

The FM has no LOCK-UP FEATURE but the principle is discussed within the film -

https://duckduckgo.com/?q=how+a+tor...i=https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pTfipsejqS0
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It was a lot easier to say the internals are magic, but what he said about the TC and input shaft is exactly what I said. Thanks. Tomorrrow I am going to check on the snap ring.
 
GLAmes said:
I don't recall anyone recommending unbolting the transmission from the bell housing. Why would you do that if the mission is to slide the bellhousing rearward enough to unbolt the flexplate?
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Daves55Sedan said:
On a '55/56 full size car, the last trans crossmember prevents you from lowering the whole trans + converter bellhousing as a unit. You actually need to push the trans further back toward the rear and tilt the trans case down while pulling forward in order to clear the bottom of the bellhousing. There is barely enough room to do that.

One other way to do it (but you still need to separate the trans case from the bellhousing and converter under the car) ...
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Yes, I am a tattle-tell RAT FINK ... :p
 
KULTULZ said:
Watch this short and it will explain the TORQUE CONVERTER. While this is not exactly the converter style being discussed, it should give a basic understanding.

The FM has no LOCK-UP FEATURE but the principle is discussed within the film -
Click to expand...

GLAmes said:
It was a lot easier to say the internals are magic, but what he said about the TC and input shaft is exactly what I said.

Thanks.

Tomorrrow I am going to check on the snap ring.
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Sorry. What I meant by LOCK-UP was the TQ having a LOCK-UP FEATURE as in the later C3. That feature is described in the short but does not apply to the FM, FX or FMX.
 
If you’re unfamiliar with exactly what the torque converter lock up is or does, the easy answer is, the lock up clutch takes stress off the fluid coupling of the torque converter and it helps decrease the amount of heat being generated at higher cruising speeds. Converter lock up wasn’t really an issue until the overdrive came about. When the transmission is tasked with spinning more RPM than the engine, the fluid coupling of the torque converter has a hard time keeping up with the demand and will begin to generate extra heat. When the converter is “locked” it is just like a direct drive manual clutch system allowing the stress to be taken off the fluid coupling and placed under full mechanical load.
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SOURCE - https://www.bowlertransmissions.com/getting-locked-up-why-the-torque-converter-lock-up-is-important/
 
GLAmes said:
I don't recall anyone recommending unbolting the transmission from the bell housing. Why would you do that if the mission is to slide the bellhousing rearward enough to unbolt the flexplate?
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Post #2, about the 13th line: "Remove the 4 bolts holding the transmission case to the bellhousing." Then line 16: "Pull the trans subassembly out of the bellhousing."
 
KULTULZ said:
Concerning torque converter retention, it is clearly stated in the WSM (that HENRY brought down from the mountain) -

This is a CYA, especially if the converter wasn't drained before dropping the trans ... :eek:

It would seem to me that fabricating a small strap to keep the convertor from possibly sliding forward retained by a cap screw in a bell mounting hole would do it.

Wrestling this on the ground with only a floor jack is dangerous enough without taking all precautions.

Bell and trans assy either slid back or rolled out of the way will give you the clearance need to access the plate.
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(BTW - I found a very brief R&R PROCEDURE in the 1955 WSM also.)

CONVERTER SAFETY STRAP - FABRICATED

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40 Deluxe said:
If you unbolt the trans case from the bellhousing and slide it back, how are you going to get the input shaft splines and the stator support splines lined back up with the internal torque converter splines? Plus, you need to have the front pump drive tangs lined up with the pump gear. Have fun! It's doable, but it'd usually be quicker to pull the engine.
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I have done it with the torque converter and bellhousing bolted to the engine in the car. Prior to raising the floor jack, take a screwdriver and turn the front pump "slots" so they will line up with the "dogs" on the converter hub.
Then, raise the floor-jack with the trans case on it up enough to get the input shaft started into the converter. If it hangs up, you can wiggle the trans on the floor jack while pushing forward slightly and the splines will engage.
Once you get that far, the converter hub may not engage with with the slots in the front pump, but they wont be far off since there is a lot of play on both sides of the front pump slots (between the two little "dogs" that stick out in the front pump. So, you can carefully shake the trans case on the floor-jack while pushing inward and it should go in easily.
Done it this way many times in just a minute. Not a big deal.
Always take care not to accidentally break the converter hub "dogs" off. Raise the floor-jack to the appropriate height and be semi-gentle when shaking and pushing the trans case in. Never had a problem.
BTW, I never weighed more than 102# nor grew to more than 5'-6" tall in my life and always did this alone without any problems occurring.
 
GLAmes said:
I don't recall anyone recommending unbolting the transmission from the bell housing. Why would you do that if the mission is to slide the bellhousing rearward enough to unbolt the flexplate?
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It may be a little different on a '54, but on a '55, if you try to unbolt the bellhousing from the engine and push the whole trans with bellhousing backward, the rear extension housing gets wedged between the floor and the last frame crossover piece, but there isn't enough room to remove the converter/flexplate sub-assembly.
At this point, there is nothing holding the converter in place except the flexplate and if the flexplate is already damaged that is even worse.
I suppose you could remove the flexplate from the converter while it is between the engine and bellhousing (IF THERE'S ENOUGH ROOM TO REMOVE FLEXPLATE TO CRANKSHAFT BOLTS), AND you would need a long piece of bailing wire tied across the front of the converter to keep it from tipping over and having the ring gear crashing into the back of the engine. Doing it this way would require someone turning the engine over several times to remove all the torque converter to flexplate bolts. At some point, you will be dragging the ring gear against the inside of the bellhousing, maybe break off a few gears.
And lets say you did remove the flexplate without causing any damage. How you gonna mate the converter which is laying in the bottom of the bellhousing with the new flexplate so that you can bolt the two together?
A drift pin would be great but there's not enough room.
 
IF one raises the trans (after freeing the mount), then removes the cross-member, the trans is then lowered enough (support rear of engine) for the trans to slide back. This should (may) prevent the converter from sliding forward but I would secure it regardless.

Make sure you check fan/radiator and distributor/firewall clearances.

And I would seriously consider renting a floor trans jack.
 
BTW, I temporarily converted my cheap brand X rolling floor-jack to a transmission jack by removing the pad off the lifting arm and substituting it for a 2x4x12"long with a piece of 3/4" plywood 12" square on top. The plywood is fastened to the 2x4 with countersunk wood screws. I drilled a hole in the middle of the plywood and thru the middle of the 2x4 and used a large countersunk machine screw with matching nut and washer to fasten the wood to the jack lifting arm. Using the jack with this arrangement helps keep the trans case fairly stable on the jack lifting arm. When I want to use it as a tire-changing jack or to change oil, I just convert the jack back to the way it was and store my wood invention for future use.
 
Daves55Sedan said:
At this point, there is nothing holding the converter in place except the flexplate and if the flexplate is already damaged that is even worse.

And lets say you did remove the flexplate without causing any damage. How you gonna mate the converter which is laying in the bottom of the bellhousing with the new flexplate so that you can bolt the two together?
A drift pin would be great but there's not enough room.
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One more time. You unbolt the tq converter from the flexplate then slide the transmission rearward enough to get to the flexplate bolts. The converter is on the transmission input shaft. It won't fall anywhere. When you slide the asembly back into place you can easily spin the converter to where the first bolt can be installed, then use a prybar on the ring gear to rotate the engine to install the rest of the bolts. This isn't rocket science.
 
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