Tips/ Installing glass to side window frames - '40 convertible

Kube

Super Moderator
Okay guys, it has become very apparent that my memory is shot. I can't for the life of me recall how to install the glass in to the stainless door window frames. Not the wing windows but the roll up windows.

It can't be as difficult as I am making it seem. Yes, the frames are completely disassembled, new, actually NOS glass and the proper rubber seals. I matched the seals to the original - Drake actually got these correct.

So... tips?
 
Hi Kube,

Been a while since I did this. You need to first remove the bolts with sleeves from the bottom of the frames. Once these are removed, remove the guide wheel assemblies. Rock in and out to do so. The frame may have to be spread slightly and then bottom runner is slid down out of the frame. The glass can then be removed from the bottom and the old gasket removed and, channels cleaned, frames polished etc.

Gasket is placed over glass and then slid into frame. New gasket is then placed on the bottom channel and it is slid up over the bottom of the glass. The wheel assemblies and screw with spacers are the last step.
 

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I also remember having to use a rubber mallet on the bottom edge to get the gasket to set completely in. I had the frame top on an old blanket or towel. Some Ruglyde, WD40 or some other lubricant will help to get the gasket with glass to slide into the channel.
 
Thanks Glenn. I have restored the frames and all the little pieces that make up the assembly. I have tried numerous times to install the glass with the rubber on it to no avail. I knw from prior experience when my time to walk away is. You know, before a disaster occurs.
I used a rubber mallet and glass cleaner as a lubricant... just didn't work for me.

Tomorrow is a new day and I'll try again.

Thanks for the advice.
 
Hi Kube,

You may want to try grabbing the bottom of one side's channel, lift that side off of the towel or padding, keeping the other top corner on the towel/padding, then hit it with the mallet. You may get more impact on the glass/seal this way. Alternate side to side. You could also pick the glass and channel up on both sides and slam and impact it onto the towel.

I hope you have better luck with it today! Good that you have the restraint to stop before disaster. I'm not so good at that myself ;-)

Glenn
 
Kube When i put mine together i used straight dishwashing soap on window frame and the rubber seal. Make sure the rubber stays straight as it goes into the channel. Tap bottom of window with rubber hammer . May have to rock window slightly. Put the rubber on glass first. When glass is all seated put bottom on. Fran
 

I have some in my shop and think that may be what I used the last time I'd restored a convertible. I hope to get back to this late today. I will let you know how it works for me. Thanks for jarring my old memory bank.
 
I have some stuff called P-80 Emulsion that is a temporary rubber lube. The reason it is labeled a temporary is that it dries out and leaves little residue. We use it on helicopter engine mounts to install in tight bushing bores.

A person may need some thinner rubber glass setting tape if it's too tight. Don't wan't to break it just want it relatively tight. There are all sorts of thicknesses of the stuff depending on the source.
 
When I replaced the rear quarter glass in my '47convertible, it was a real challenge. The packing was firmly glued to the glass and frame, and some of the small screws were stripped. When I finally got the old glass out and the stainless frame cleaned, I experimented with various sizes of glass setting tape (there are four sizes) until the glass would slip in the frame firmly enough to keep the glass in place. That was over 20 years ago, so I don't recall exactly which worked. I don't believe in the hammer technique because I learned long ago when replacing windshield glass that ruined frames are expensive. Regards, Bob
 
I agree that there are several types of glass setting tape. There is a rubber tape available in as thin a 1/32". It is also available in 3/64" and so on. It just depends on the thickness of the glass and the width of the channel. If the rubber supplied is too thick, then a person has to go a different route. Not all of the repro stuff is usable these days. A quick measurement will tell the thickness needed for a zero fit. Some rubber formulas have too hard a shore hardness on a durometer check to compress well enough to work on this kind of stuff. You see it all the time with door seals.

When I went to A&P school in Tulsa, Ok, I worked for a boat window manufacturer putting glass in the fabricated window channels of all shapes & sizes. We had a hot room that the rolls of rubber extrusion were kept in. I'd grab a roll and use it until we changed style or till it cooled off too much. A roll that cooled too much was no longer usable. I'd take it back to the hot room and swap it out with another roll. The hot room was kept at around 150 degrees F. I know a person couldn't stay in there very long. On the rolls, the rubber would stay hot for around an hour. This makes it much more pliable than when cold.
 
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How did you make out with your glass Kube? Hope you were able to get them installed.

I have tried twice but still don't have the results I desire. I'll keep at it. Hey, I did it before :)

I promise to post when I get good results.

I admit, I'm getting frustrated...
 
get the correct tape for a good snug hit cut and fit and tape it to the glass with electrical tape rub some oil on the tape start the frames and either pound them on or use clamps there are 4 different thickness of tape
 
get the correct tape for a good snug hit cut and fit and tape it to the glass with electrical tape rub some oil on the tape start the frames and either pound them on or use clamps there are 4 different thickness of tape

This application does not utilize tape. There is a special seal for these frames. I am waiting for a new one as I destroyed the one I was working with.
 
If you have the original glass, check it's thickness and compare to new glass. If the new glass is thicker you may not be able to use the rubber seals, if it's a little thinner or same, then should be ok. Other thing to check, width and height. If those are off it isn't going to go in.
 
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