Timing?

lauratrue

Junior Member
I need some help, suggestions, or hints badly. My 30 Coupe with a B engine was sitting in front of the garage idiling to charge the battery when it quit like I shut the switch off. It would crank but not restart. I have checked the timing marks on crank and cam, checked for shorts. I have changed the oil pump/distributor drive gear and the both distributor shafts(lots of wear and slop there). Also changed any questionable wiring. Still won't start. Any
ideas out there?
 
Does it have spark? Hold the coil wire near a head bolt and turn over the engine with the key on. You should get a 1/4 inch blue spark every time the points open? Yes, then it is fuel. No, see if there is spark at the points. open and closing them with key on should give a spark. If not make sure you have 6 volts on both coil connections with the key on. try and report back for more.
 
First, idling does not charge the battery. Might try pulling the drain plug on the carb and see what kind of a flow you get. Many here will tell you that if you have spark fuel and compression timed correctly it should run.
 
Wow, this has gotten pretty "drastic" if oil pump drive gears and shafts are being replaced just because the engine died. By chance is there any other Model-Aer close by that can be a mentor or a 2nd pair of eyes/ears to help diagnose?

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Does it have spark? ... If not make sure you have 6 volts on both coil connections with the key on. try and report back for more.

Since the coil is between the battery and the ignition switch, and those junction box terminals are always hot, I'm wondering why he is advised to have the key on. Wondering if there's something I don't know about there.

Steve
 
Since the coil is between the battery and the ignition switch, and those junction box terminals are always hot, I'm wondering why he is advised to have the key on. Wondering if there's something I don't know about there.

Steve

Steve, I totally understand why you are saying that but we probably have a 50/50 chance that it could be either way. Since the poster mentions the Coupe has a Model-B engine, what else has been changed? Likely the distributer does not have an Electro-lock ignition switch, --and Frank mentions that idling will not charge the battery. That is a true statement with the stock generator but if the engine is equipped with an alternator, then as long as the regulator has energized, then it will likely charge the battery. If the ignition switch has indeed been changed, then the way the power gets to the coil would require the ignition switch to be in the "on" position.
 
Since the coil is between the battery and the ignition switch, and those junction box terminals are always hot, I'm wondering why he is advised to have the key on. Wondering if there's something I don't know about there.

Steve

You won't get spark with the key off! The key has to be on to complete the circuit.
Bill
 
I am curious about the comment Frank Miller said about pulling the drain plug and checking flow. I want to check mine. I know there are 2 bolts at the bottom of carb. If I am looking at it is it the right or left. How much flow should I have. Thanks. Joe B.
 
I am curious about the comment Frank Miller said about pulling the drain plug and checking flow. I want to check mine. I know there are 2 bolts at the bottom of carb. If I am looking at it is it the right or left. How much flow should I have. Thanks. Joe B.
Left and it should flow pretty good.
 
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