timing

a-bone newby

a-bone newby

Senior Member
I have a problem with the rotor as it is past the #1 pin when I try to time it. the car runs fine but doesnt look right how can i back it up one cam tooth I dont know if this was done by the previous owner but want correct it thanks for help again barry
 
After finding the dimple in the cam gear, the position of the rotor is set by adjusting the points.....................by rotating the cam in the top of the dist which the rotor slides onto.
Paul in CT
 
Without a picture I'd say the timing is correct from how I interpret what you've said.

You know the timing is set by turning the points cam, so it can be turned just about anywhere you want. But, as long as the points just open when the lever is pulled down 2 clicks you're fine.

It either that or I'm completely misunderstanding your post.
 
the cam is held tight by the screw under the rotor.. loosen the screw then rotate it to the desired position..
 
Always adjust the points to .020" first, then set the timing.
When the timing pin is in the dimple the rotor should look link this picture.
Lift the rotor off the loosen the screw. A special tool is used to hold the cam still while the screw is tightened.
 

Attachments

  • Timing Rotor Location.jpg
    Timing Rotor Location.jpg
    66.7 KB · Views: 331
Tom I have been chasing a possible heat concern as you well know. I have been doing some checking and have a question:
I am running a F.S. pertronix ignitor.
OK I turn it over and had no problem finding the dimple. The rotor was pointed at #1 with lever full up. the position placed the #1 contact on the opposite corner? So is this too retarted? I assume it should look like yours.

It does lope at low idle with full retard.

Hope I am on to something.
 
I adjusted timing. Was too retarded More power and climbs grades much better.
Might even run cooler. I positioned it where indicated in Tom's photo. Thanks Tom help a lot.


Thanks
 
Just be sure when the rotor is pointing as shown in Tom's photo the points are just on the verge of opening. Sounds like you have it right, but just making sure.
 
barkleydave said:
I adjusted timing. Was too retarded More power and climbs grades much better.
Might even run cooler. I positioned it where indicated in Tom's photo. Thanks Tom help a lot.


Thanks
Click to expand...

Now that you have it running good, don't let anyone mess with it. Once the timing is set, it will stay set, unless someone changes a part or messes with it.

BTW, the easy to set timing method is an idea from Marco. I took a picture of my rotor, because as they say, a picture is worth a thousand words.

You should now see your overheating problem go away, and as you noted, the engine has more power.
 
Tom Wesenberg said:
Now that you have it running good, don't let anyone mess with it. Once the timing is set, it will stay set, unless someone changes a part or messes with it.

BTW, the easy to set timing method is an idea from Marco. I took a picture of my rotor, because as they say, a picture is worth a thousand words.

You should now see your overheating problem go away, and as you noted, the engine has more power.
Click to expand...

The picture did the trick!! Since I DO NOT HAVE POINTS! I am not sure the test light to verify would work. Also turning the key on without running for more than 30 seconds can burn out the Pertronix Module. All I have to do is back the idle down a little and should be good to go. Thanks again!
 
Tom Wesenberg said:
... I took a picture of my rotor, because as they say, a picture is worth a thousand words...
Click to expand...
I showed that picture to a friend last night. He was quite enamored with, not the placement of the pin itself, but with the opposite end with the two screws.
 
CarlG said:
I showed that picture to a friend last night. He was quite enamored with, not the placement of the pin itself, but with the opposite end with the two screws.
Click to expand...
Those screws are Toms' balancing weights.
We should ALL tattoo the timing procedure & pics on our forehead & have sumbody read it to us, as we work, IF you kin find sumbody thet kin READ!! IF you work alone, use a mirror, which means you have to tattoo it *** BACKWARDS:eek: IF you ever gonna' apply fur a JOB, DON'T TATOO ANYTHING ON YOUR HEAD!!! SCARS are OK:eek:
Bill W.
 
Last edited:
CarlG said:
I showed that picture to a friend last night. He was quite enamored with, not the placement of the pin itself, but with the opposite end with the two screws.
Click to expand...

Yes, as Bill said, I balanced my rotor. Take an old distributor shaft and turn the bottom down to fit in the chuck of a small electric drill, then mount a distributor cam and rotor to it. Turn the drill on and try to hold the rotor from making your hand shake. That same force is on the distributor bushings, and that's why I like to balance them.

It's the same principle as adding counterweights to the crankshaft.
 
Update:
After setting timing as explained in Les Andrews book vol II for electronic ignition.
Truck would not idle well... and when I advanced above 1/2 on the lever the engine would start to stumble.
I began tweaking and advancing the rotor. I moved it advanced I would guess about 1/8" would be around 5 degrees BTDC.

It now idles normally again and runs smoother.

My original quest to lower engine temps. was a bust. No difference on any of my setups.

Back to looking into a more efficient radiator for long tours.
 
I think two people posting on one thread gets confusing for the original poster. I am curious as to how a-bone newby made out. Did you get it corrected?
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top