Timing wrench

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Nick in Fayetteville

Senior Member
I used to set my timing by eye and ear. Then I started using the method where a small light bulb is used. Now I'm told that I should be using a TIMING WRENCH. A tool that is used to rotate the distributor cam and line up with a
point on the distributor body. This is suppose to give you the perfect timing if you are set at TDC on piston #1. Has anyone had much experience with this method. What are your results....Thanks....Nick
 
Nick: Basically any method that works for YOU. I use the NuRex wrench and like it. My problem is finding the "dimple".
FWIW
Paul in CT
 
gustafson said:
In my experience that wrench is of no use, waste of $$$
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Sorry - I respectfully disagree. For myself, it pretty much gets dead-on, and is certainly much faster than any other method.

Besides - when setting initial timing, how exact do you have to be? - given that pretty much right after you start your engine and are off driving, you're going to be moving the advance lever well more than any possible error-margin you might have from using this wrench.
 
The main job of the wrench is hold the cam when you tighten down the screw with the body on. Yes you can use it to turn the cam.
 
I know at least 4 people who have overtimed their motors using that and ended up with serious overheating. It is a crutch, a poor one at that
 
Does not matter if you use the regular flat or angled NuRex, the use is the same, hold the cam while you tighten the screw. It was made for that use, does not matter if the base is tight or loose, you have to keep the cam in position when you lock it down.
 
Without a cam wrench of some kind, how would you hold the cam in position while you tighten the screw? I agree that exact timing isn't as important as a modern car because the little that you might be off is taken up by you advancing the timing. The engine will take a little different timing each time, but it does anyway and when the points block wears it changes a little also. The timing is very important but I think there is usually more difference and slop in the distributor, especially the top plate than you would correct with a perfect timing setting. Not saying the timing doesn't have to be very close, but exact isn't a deal breaker. You should move the timing and judge how the engine reacts, finding the best advance setting by the sound and power.
 
I agree with SDJason above. I've never understood all the fascination with getting the Model A timing exact either when you manually change it as soon as you start driving. More important, I think, is that your spark lever linkage allows full travel of the adjustment in the slot on the side of the distributor. I use the NuRex wrench because it holds the cam in place when tightening down the securing bolt.

Glen
 
1931 flamingo said:
Nick: Basically any method that works for YOU. I use the NuRex wrench and like it. My problem is finding the "dimple".
FWIW
Paul in CT
Click to expand...



Find the dimple and the NuRex will do the job. It works just as well with Pertronix ignitions when installed in a stock distrib.with stock cap.




Problem with points no amount of timing will correct incorrect point adjustment or point block wear worn bushings etc.
 
I find the NuRex gets it close for me. But I still have to "tweek" it a bit to get it to where the rig seems to be running the way it should. But it is a good tool to have to help you out in this area.
 
I have used the light bulb method, done it by eye (not very well, though), and the New Rex wrench method. As stated above, for me anyway, is getting the timing pin in the dimple of the timing gear. I don’t see any difference between timing with the light or using the wrench. The car seems to run the same either way. The wrench is awfully handy. I keep it in the car all the time.:D
 
Maybe this is a thread hijack - apology if it is. This is basically unimportant concerning TDC. When moving the crankshaft, the piston is at TDC without detectable moving for a number of degrees when approached from either direction for the pin to drop in. My question is; what is the total number degrees when the pin drops when turning normal rotation and turning from opposite rotation? I ***-u-me timing is always set turning in the normal rotation. To get the timing "on the dot" should the difference be split or does the pin hole split the difference? - not that it matters with a Model A.

John
 
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IMHO splitting hairs on model A timing is a moot point. These cars were made to be serviced by anyone and were done so for years. The fact is you have a distributor that you control manually means that only fully retarded timing is important however your A will run just fine with the timing not spot on in retard position.
 
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