Timing indicators, do you use them?

FYI -- The picture in post #1 is NOT the one sold by Brattons. The one pictured is the one I have and is only available on eBay from fellow Barner "Old Victoria".
 
I am old school...I use Henry's pin method to set initial time, then adjust the spark advance while driving per the engine's preference - usually 1/2 to 3/4 of the full range.
Works for me :)
 
The timing is set at just after TDC for start up when using a Model A distributor and front cover and the timing pin. For most cars even with HC heads, you are setting by sound and feel so using a gauge except to make it easier to set points to match the pin hole in the cam gear easier really does not do a lot. You can't use the gauge to check where the best timing is while on the road where is really counts.
 
I use the timing pin to get me to the TDC on number 1. Then with a mirror and flashlight ascertain that the recess in the timing gear is indeed in the center of the hole. Then I make three marks, one on the pulley and two that line up with the one on the pulley so anytime I wish to find TDC I can get really close with the crank. If I had to do it on the road I'd do it as quickly as possible and get out of harms way, then recheck with my light and mirror later. Once you know TDC it is very easy to get reasonably close until you're back in your work area, or Motel, whatever. I set the rotor to where the heel of the rotor is opposite the number one lug on the distributor body at full retard and tighten it down, then drive away with the spark advanced until there is no improvement in running. When I get home or to the night lodging I test with my timing light. Usually it is good, but if I slipped and it needs improvement I can re-find TDC very quickly and carefully cure what ails it. Works for me and several I have helped. Not for the purist on their show cars, mine are all drivers only. Some more so than others.
 
I'm confused regarding all the precision some use to set the timing on a stock motor. I set the timing using the pin method but set the spark lever one notch down (not full retard). Using a jumper wire from the points arm to ground, I very slowly turn the motor until a spark indicates the points have just opened. Now, I have some leeway to adjust the timing slightly more retarded with the spark lever or much more advanced while driving depending on road conditions and speed. Why is all this precision needed with timing indicators and timing lights when the spark lever gives you a wide but manual choice of timing settings? I must be missing something as some of the respected gurus on A motors seem to adhere to being exact in setting their timing. Am I doing this all wrong?

Glen
 
Lona, that is what I do also. Finding TDC accurately is more of a concern, especially with a sloppy pin and dimple or with a worn rotor shaft bearing in the distributor that allows the point gap to fluctuate. This is more common in older motors.
 
I have found it's quite easy to set TDC by removing the #1 spark plug and looking in the hole with a small bright flashlight. You can see the piston come up while turning the hand crank. Stop just before it starts down. I know that sounds silly....stop just before something happens... but with just a little practice and rocking back and forth you'll be able to spot the stop point. Just be sure to stop in the up stroke of the piston as you turn the hand crank.


For some reason my gear doesn't have the dimple in it. I had to improvise. It may not be as accurate as using a dial indicator, but when one isn't available this is sufficient. As others have pointed out, that's why the left lever is on the steering column.
 
If I follow things correctly, your Zipper distributor must have an automatic spark advance. I have heard that 28 degrees advance (as measured on the flywheel pulley) is the maximum that you should have. This agrees with John's reply above. Richard Lorenz
 
I use all methods but for fine timing if you wish to run 5 degrees retarded then a timing light is the best method to verify. It is easy to check your timing without touching the distributor. Put light on check and then decide if changes are required.


I recently had a bad timing gear and we replaced it. Car did not idle well and poor power. A quick check with the timing light showed the timing had changed to over 20 degrees retard. Yes the engine ran but no power. Just a few min. and I had it back in its sweet spot.


Use whatever works for you... Now I am a 12 conversion so just hook up. If 6 then you must provide a 12 source to run the light.
 
A Friend drilled a 1/8" hole in the timing cover & glued in a 1/8" welding rod, with a POINTY end. Painted the tip WHITE & a WHITE spot on the Pulley, at T.D.C.
Bill Easyandcheap
 
zzlegend said:
I have one. But I have a 6.1 head and a "B" distributor, so dropping the pin in the hole and setting the points to open wont work. Very handy with a timing light.
Click to expand...


ZZ are you using a dialback light? I will be going to a Snyders 6.1 head soon.


So, when you are at 0 TDC, what do you have to do to your light to get it to 0? Are you changing the dialback to 20-23-26 degrees to achive 0?
 
The distributor body will rotate some on the base. This makes it moot to try and split hairs when timing. The pin works just fine.
 
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