Timing Indications...

I must me loosing it. Mitch is right. I stand corrected. The picture he posted is correct. You are slightly advanced. Responce to 1955cj5
 
I'm tired, but I'll tipe it AGAIN. You have to learn the proper Model A responses.
1 Spark full up, it should have a smooth rhythmical sound, like, TADA-TADA-TADA-TADA.
2 Spark 1/2 way down, a smooth, faster idle.
3 Spark full down, an even faster, but somewhat "rolling" idle.
If you have ALL this, quit DICKIN' AROUND WITH IT!
If you don't have all these, use common sense to make slight distributor cam adjustments, one way or the other, until you have them right.
Once you find TDC with the timing pin, the rest of the job of setting the timing can be done by the "SEAT OF YOUR PANTS"!
Many overthink & overcomplicate setting the timing. Timing only changes, as the point rubbing block wears, just re-set the point gap & it's correct again. AND, MODEL A's DON'T "JUMP" TIMING, that's just some IDIOT blabbing CRAP!
AND, remember, the relationship of the rotor tip to the body contact is NOT what controls the timing, timing is controlled by the moment the points BREAK CONTACT!
Bill W.
 
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Turn the rotor slightly clockwise until it lines up like Marco's picture that Mitch posted with the timing pin set into the cam gear dimple.

Also make sure your points are set to .020" when they are on the highest point of the distributor cam.
 
OK I think I've got it. With the lever all the way up I get a 0° advance indication with the timing light, and that is about a 350 rpm idle checked with my old Sear's "engine analyzer".

It runs good and I'm happy with it...even though the rotor does not point as in the picture....

I think the worn housing, worn upper distributor plate, the points a little loose on the pin etc etc etc account for that...

Thanks for all the input.

I think this case is closed....

But Bill, I like "DICKIN' AROUND WITH IT!" That's how I learn....
 
1955cj5 said:
OK I think I've got it. With the lever all the way up I get a 0° advance indication with the timing light, and that is about a 350 rpm idle checked with my old Sear's "engine analyzer".

It runs good and I'm happy with it...even though the rotor does not point as in the picture....

I think the worn housing, worn upper distributor plate, the points a little loose on the pin etc etc etc account for that...

Thanks for all the input.

I think this case is closed....

But Bill, I like "DICKIN' AROUND WITH IT!" That's how I learn....
Click to expand...
CJ,
I DICK AROUND with stuff TOO!--But Chief always taught me, when something is working well, just keep your COTTON PICKIN' hands off it..
Bill W.
 
As they reminded us daily in flight engineer school:

"works fine,

lasts a long time,

don't mess with it!...."
 
I was taught many many years ago that when the pin is in the dimple the points should be just about to open for #1 cylinder. Picture 3 in post #14 shows exactly that, looks good to me.:):)
 
forever4 said:
FWIW, the spark plug is not above the piston, so using the spark plug hole to locate the piston position is questionable at best. The spark plug is above the valve.
Click to expand...

OK, I'm new to Model As. There has to be a way to fab a bent rod or something that stops the piston. Anyway the theory is sound.

Gary
 
Garychinook said:
OK, I'm new to Model As. There has to be a way to fab a bent rod or something that stops the piston. Anyway the theory is sound.

Gary
Click to expand...

You can see the piston through the #1 spark plug hole with a good flashlight...and if you contort a little you can see the valves...

Just be sure all your indications agree....pin seated in the cam gear dimple...piston visually at TDC and the rotor pointing more or less at 5 O'clock
 
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