Timing Indications...

1955cj5

1955cj5

Well-known member
I just got a timing indicator/scale from an ebay seller..Model A Garage Inc.

I used a little Brass Black to take the shine off and then installed it..

Interesting indications.

With the steering column arm all the way"up" I get about -5° which I did not get a picture of..

But about 3 notches down it indicates 0° which is where I made the mark with the pin installed..

And with the lever all the way advanced, I get about 30°
 

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Bought mine a Hersey swap meet have not install,but plan to this weekend . I know some say it realy helps get the timing right
 
Please explain to me how putting that plate on your engine "helps get the timing right??
If you find the dimple and set the points per Marco's method or any of the other ways. It's done. JMO

Paul in CT
 
I agree with Paul,
When I set my timing I adjust the advance lever 2 notches down then set the timing Marcos way, I do this because I sometimes don't wait for the pin to completely drop. there is plenty of lever movement to find the sweet spot.

However most that install those indicators do not set the TDC mark in the correct place, the engine must be turned clockwise and counter clockwise to find the true TDC, as the crank will turn a few degrees without the piston moving, they would be useful with a distributors that are adjustable.
 
you can accomplish the same thing by putting a tiny white dot on the pulley and on the frt cover at TDC.. then use a common timing light with the advance retard knob on it.. that being said i never needed to even do that to set things up properly
 
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Well, to each his own method but I use the dimple with the pin method for the static setting and then adjust the advance lever while driving for the best/smoothest power.
 
I didn't say this was better than any other method, or any kind of a crutch. I still use the pin...

I was interested in how much advance I was getting....
 
So, 1955, what was your conclusion? I ask, because I have experienced an unusual timing situation on my coupe using the SOP.
 
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Mitch//pa said:
adjust your timing till you get 0 deg all the way up... you should be about 40 all the way down
Click to expand...

OK thanks Mitch...that is what I was hoping to learn.....

It seems to run best on the road, at ~35mph or so, with the lever about 3/4 of the way towards full advance....probably about 25°..
 
With the pin and dimple used to set TDC...

This is where my rotor points.

It runs fine like this, but it does not look "right"..

And if I advance it further it'll just get worse..

I'm not sure what is wrong...pictures are with the advance lever all the way up...
 

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I think you have your timming just about right for 0* with spark lever all the way up. The tab , I believe is 20* wide on the rotor. So as you move the spark control to max advance you will get the spark at the rear of the rotor tab with about 40* crank rotation or 20* dist. Rotation. You probably have your timing at about 2* retarded as shown in your picture and the spark occuring as shown. A lot of guys set it like that. I set mine at exactly 0* when full retarded.
 
your picture shows your timing is advanced a tad.
turning the cam / rotor counterclockwise advances .
here is how the rotor should look when the pin drops in the timing gear
 

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For me to really get it right one has to verify where "0" is on the indicator plate. This is accomplished with some kind of TDC finder/ piston stop. Just because the sticker says zero doesn't mean that is where it is. Who ever stuck on the black sticker may have been "hanging over" and stuck it 5 degrees or more off.
One can fab up a piston stop from an old spark plug so that one can use the new fangled timing indicator (which I like and use) instead of a degree wheel. Just weld on an extension to the plug so that the TDC mark on the pulley falls withing the range of the new indicator.
Then proceed with the commonly known finding process.
Then you know.

Gary
 
Garychinook said:
For me to really get it right one has to verify where "0" is on the indicator plate. This is accomplished with some kind of TDC finder/ piston stop. Just because the sticker says zero doesn't mean that is where it is. Who ever stuck on the black sticker may have been "hanging over" and stuck it 5 degrees or more off.
One can fab up a piston stop from an old spark plug so that one can use the new fangled timing indicator (which I like and use) instead of a degree wheel. Just weld on an extension to the plug so that the TDC mark on the pulley falls withing the range of the new indicator.
Then proceed with the commonly known finding process.
Then you know.

Gary
Click to expand...

YEAH, WHAT GARY SAID !
This is what cj5 should do to make sure his "0" mark is at the absolutely correct mark. Then his method is fine and he knows his lever is not giving too much advance when fully down, which I think could be a danger to the engine. And it doesn't matter how many other guys think their way is the only way to do it.

Go for it Gary & 1955cj5 and do it your way!
 
Garychinook said:
For me to really get it right one has to verify where "0" is on the indicator plate. This is accomplished with some kind of TDC finder/ piston stop. Just because the sticker says zero doesn't mean that is where it is. Who ever stuck on the black sticker may have been "hanging over" and stuck it 5 degrees or more off.
One can fab up a piston stop from an old spark plug so that one can use the new fangled timing indicator (which I like and use) instead of a degree wheel. Just weld on an extension to the plug so that the TDC mark on the pulley falls withing the range of the new indicator.
Then proceed with the commonly known finding process.
Then you know.

Gary
Click to expand...






Don't believe in the timing pin, huh ?
Of course it requires the correct timing cover.
 
I used the timing pin first when I installed and marked the pulley, and again when I set it up for checking the timing this go-around...

You can see the dimple in post #14

I think the dimple is fine for setting the timing..it's worked fine for years....I'm just trying to find out why my rotor is so different from all the pictures I've seen, like the one Mitch posted above.

When my advance lever is all the way retarded, the points plate moves well beyond the cutout in the distributor cap, so the rod needs to be bent to bring it back where it belongs...maybe this isn't so unusual?
 
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