Timing Gear

Domino

Domino

Senior Member
A few questions. Can a backfire while the engine is running cause it to lose timing? How can one determine if they have a bad timing gear short of removing the cover? Also if necessary can one replace the timing gear with the engine in the car and without removing the radiator? This on a stock 30 tudor. TIA
 
Can a backfire while the engine is running cause it to lose timing?

Maybe if the cam screw is loose on the dist.

How can one determine if they have a bad timing gear short of removing the cover?

Depends on what you mean by bad. A loose gear can be found if you place the timing pin against the gear while it is running. You can also remove the side timing cover to see the gear teeth.

Also if necessary can one replace the timing gear with the engine in the car and without removing the radiator?

Yes but it is a ***** to see the timing indicators on the gears to line them up.

How about some more information on why you think the gear is bad?
 
Mike V. Florida said:
Can a backfire while the engine is running cause it to lose timing?

Maybe if the cam screw is loose on the dist.

How can one determine if they have a bad timing gear short of removing the cover?

Depends on what you mean by bad. A loose gear can be found if you place the timing pin against the gear while it is running. You can also remove the side timing cover to see the gear teeth.

Also if necessary can one replace the timing gear with the engine in the car and without removing the radiator?

Yes but it is a ***** to see the timing indicators on the gears to line them up.

How about some more information on why you think the gear is bad?
Click to expand...


What he said :D
 
In response to the question as to why I think the timing gear may be bad. To be honest I don't think it is. But I have timed my four As and others many time but having trouble with a tudor I purchased a while back. It simply would not start. Well I got it to run but after a short distance (1-3 miles) it would begin to backfire and finally just quit. I have changed the plugs (new ones), carb (goodone from another car, distributor with a rebuilt one, removed the bulb and clean it (significant amount of rust ) and strained gas through the tank until I been getting totally clean (visually gas - running it through a paint strainer). I am quit frustrated and trying to think of all alternatives to check including the possibility of a bad timing gear (doesn't seem to stay in time)l and coil. By the way the car is an older restoration which sat in a garage for about 6-7 years before I purchased it being rarely started. Open to all suggestions.
 
Bet it is fuel related. I have found that cars that make short (3 to 5 miles) runs and choke down with lots of backfiring and just quit then start after a short rest usually (90%) are from fuel blockages. Just because you flush the tank doesn't mean the tank is clean. Once you start to move the car, sloshing will disturb particles that flushing won't remove. You need to understand that steel even plain has a certain amount of magnetism and will have rust particles stuck in many places flushing won't touch.

Try removing the carb and leave the fuel line in place. Connect a piece of fuel line to it and run it into a quart jar or other suitably sized container and turn the fuel on at the valve. It should fill the container with a steady, full sized stream in a short time with no interruption in the flow.

Hope this helps.
 
I had the same problem with a coupe that had been stored 12 years. It would start and run OK, then start running rough, with an intermittent knock, and lose power. I discovered that the timing was changing and that it would be all over the place, even a few miles after I retimed it. When I pulled the the side cover and started the engine, I could see that the timing gear was moving fore and aft with every change in RPMs, which explained the knock and variable timing.

Next, I pulled the front cover and I found that the thrust plunger was all the way back and that the internal spring had rusted and broken into three pieces. The short story is that I replaced the thrust spring and all was well. An unthrusted camshaft will tend to "walk" back and forth and you will never be able to keep it timed.
 
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Checking the cam gear is easy as 1, 2, 3. Remove 1 pan bolt, 2 block bolts, and 3 front cover bolts. Now you can turn the engine over slowly and check each tooth. You can also pry the gear ahead carefully to check the plunger and spring pressure. Pry forward as near as possible to the center of the gear. You only need to move the gear enough to know it has the proper spring pressure. Don't clean the gasket surface, just smear a little sealer on it and bolt the cover back on.

I agree with James that it most likely is fuel related. I always recommend cleaning the tank as well as you can, then install the filter in the shut off valve. This will be a big help in keeping the junk out of the vlave and carb.
 
Generally, running a short distance and then backfiring signals a lean mixture (low gas in carb) this is from a blockage in the fuel system. Then while you check everything under the sun, the carb fills back up slowly and will run again till the gas from the blockage to the carb gets empty then, blammo, backfire from leaning out and runs out of gas. I would concentrate on the fuel system first. Put a plastic lawn mower tank on it and run it till it quits. I bet you get a full tank of travel before you run out of motor.
 
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