timing gear question

Billy 1931 Model A

Billy 1931 Model A

Member
Took the valve cover off. When I turn the crankshaft, the cam doesn’t turn, so the distributor doesn’t turn. It seems either the cam timing gear and/or the crankshaft timing gear is busted, right?

Also, copper gaskets or graphite?
 
You can easily remove the timing gear cover, and look at what's happening. Odds are that you have a 'fiber' camshaft gear, that has stripped teeth... You can order another 'fiber' gear, or an aluminum one that will last ages. There is lots of literature on how to swap out the gear, and get it to mesh with the crankshaft gear correctly. I've no opinion of gaskets. Good Luck!
 
Most likely the camshaft gear center is "liberated" from the toothed portion. I've never heard of a crank gear being stripped, while losing a cam gear is not at all uncommon. (FWIW, 60's-70's Volvo 4-cylinder engines were renowned for this also. Made a few bucks in college replacing timing gears on them.)
 
Billy,
if the valve cover is removed, you can see the camshaft gear teeth through the opening at the front.
 

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JayJay said:
Most likely the camshaft gear center is "liberated" from the toothed portion. I've never heard of a crank gear being stripped, while losing a cam gear is not at all uncommon. (FWIW, 60's-70's Volvo 4-cylinder engines were renowned for this also. Made a few bucks in college replacing timing gears on them.)
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My fiber gear stripped in 2019.
 
My fiber gear stripped in 1966. I changed it out at the side of the road. I carried a new one. Now I have an aluminum gear and no longer carry a spare timing gear.
 
If the fiber timing gear is shot …….. without the gear having spun its center, there’s a good chance the gear broke because your distributor has frozen up or is about to. If that is the case, the fiber gear became sacrificial and negated any more substantial damage to internal engine parts. This is a variable most folks don’t know about. Sooooo, whatever happened to the fiber timing gear, before you launch another one, maybe remove the distributor from the engine, be sure the shaft still turns easily by hand and is well lubricated.
 
bobbader said:
If the fiber timing gear is shot …….. without the gear having spun its center, there’s a good chance the gear broke because your distributor has frozen up or is about to. If that is the case, the fiber gear became sacrificial and negated any more substantial damage to internal engine parts. This is a variable most folks don’t know about. Sooooo, whatever happened to the fiber timing gear, before you launch another one, maybe remove the distributor from the engine, be sure the shaft still turns easily by hand and is well lubricated.
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Bob touches on something I have told others many times. Don't think that just because what was broken is repaired that all is well. Ask yourself "Why is it so?" What caused the problem - fix that and your repair is complete.
 
Synchro909 said:
Bob touches on something I have told others many times. Don't think that just because what was broken is repaired that all is well. Ask yourself "Why is it so?" What caused the problem - fix that and your repair is complete.
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Truer words were never spoken, Synchro. Old school mechanic vs. current parts replacer.
 
nkaminar said:
My fiber gear stripped in 1966. I changed it out at the side of the road. I carried a new one. Now I have an aluminum gear and no longer carry a spare timing gear.
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See Bob Bader's post right below yours. Henry knew what he was doing when he specified a fiber gear.
 
Yes, the rest of the engine, including the distributor must be kept in good operating condition. I am a member of the OCD club, Often Check Distributor. I keep it oiled and happy.
 
Best to replace the timing gear AND the crank gear at the same time. Especially if you're going to an aluminum or bronze timing gear.

Yes, this requires pulling the engine - or at least making major excavations of machine components before you do the actual work. A puller and likely replacer are required to pull that small gear. Its not a hard job but having the right tools helps.

Joe K
 
Here's the one that came out of my 1930 last month. Unfortunately, I was 300 miles from home when it failed.
 

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The 3" bore English AF engine produces 28 BHP @ 2600 RPM . They "eat" the timing wheel a common fault in these engines must be the higher revs . The fretted debris gets stuck to the oil pump pickup filter guaze so it looks like a coating of brown felt . It blocks the screen and even collapses the screen inwards . No oil pressure when the gear has been replaced so worth checking dont ask me how I know .!!!

John in hot humid Suffolk County England like Dallas in 08 National Meet .
 
atch said:
Here's the one that came out of my 1930 last month. Unfortunately, I was 300 miles from home when it failed.
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john charlton said:
The 3" bore English AF engine produces 28 BHP @ 2600 RPM . They "eat" the timing wheel a common fault in these engines must be the higher revs . The fretted debris gets stuck to the oil pump pickup filter guaze so it looks like a coating of brown felt . It blocks the screen and even collapses the screen inwards . No oil pressure when the gear has been replaced so worth checking dont ask me how I know .!!!

John in hot humid Suffolk County England like Dallas in 08 National Meet .
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Let me add that when the timing gear got replaced the oil pan was removed and the pieces of timing gear were carefully cleaned out.
 
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