timing gear model b

32forddump

32forddump

Senior Member
Yesterday I was driving my roadster when large popping sound and loss of power occurred. Looks like i have a timing problem. I put pin in timing cover and rotor pointing to #3 cyllinder. Do I have to pull engine to remove timing gear cover on model b engine?
 
First check the distributor cam to see if it isn't just that which moved. Grab the rotor and see if you can turn it by hand.
 
ok, I will check out the distributor for any problems then turn my attention to the timing gear. I am just confirming that when the pin is in dimple of timing gear #1 piston should be at top and the exhaust valve is next in line for lifting. Thanks for the help.
 
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By the way - for anyone who does have a '32-'34 4-cylinder engine, it would behoove you to buy an Operators Manual (aka, Owner's Manual), the reprint of which is readily available. Just search for 1932 Ford Model B, Instruction Book.
While it may not be carried by the Model A suppliers, you can probably find it in the V-8 Ford suppliers catalogs, like SACRAMENTO VINTAGE FORD.

A quick look on ebay reveals:
1. "Service Instructions V-8 and 4-Cylinder 1932 Cars and Trucks" - $15
2. "Instruction Book, Ford 4-Cylinder Cars & Trucks" - $8.76
 
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DougVieyra said:
By the way - for anyone who does have a '32-'34 4-cylinder engine, it would behoove you to buy an Operators Manual (aka, Owner's Manual), the reprint of which is readily available. Just search for 1932 Ford Model B, Instruction Book.
While it may not be carried by the Model A suppliers, you can probably find it in the V-8 Ford suppliers catalogs, like SACRAMENTO VINTAGE FORD.

A quick look on ebay reveals:
1. "Service Instructions V-8 and 4-Cylinder 1932 Cars and Trucks" - $15
2. "Instruction Book, Ford 4-Cylinder Cars & Trucks" - $8.76
Click to expand...

One thing to remember is that the instruction book evolved during the year to match the changes in the vehicles. Try to get one with a date as close as possible to the date of your car.

Charlie Stephens
 
Today, I checked distributor for failure and it was fine. I checked out timing gear and it ws perfect. I did find a cracked distributor cap and the engine is running great. But I am still having a overheating problem. I have a brand new radiator and I put in some purple ice, I swapped out the water pump but still no effect. I have not pulled the head because i have great compression, but i may have to do so to make sure there is no blockage of cooling paths. I have watched the video on timing the model b but i can not make it run on one cyllinder. Not sure what to do next.
 
32forddump said:
Today, I checked distributor for failure and it was fine. I checked out timing gear and it ws perfect. I did find a cracked distributor cap and the engine is running great. But I am still having a overheating problem. I have a brand new radiator and I put in some purple ice, I swapped out the water pump but still no effect. I have not pulled the head because i have great compression, but i may have to do so to make sure there is no blockage of cooling paths. I have watched the video on timing the model b but i can not make it run on one cyllinder. Not sure what to do next.
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What do you define as "an overheating problem"?

Carlie Stephens
 
Did it 'overheat' before? If not, and you have a new overheating problem, the first thing to check is your timing. It is prolly set too late (retarded). Even if a few degrees late, the engine will overheat. Every Model A that has come to my shop has been set too late despite the owners telling me it was set 'perfect'
 
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I had exactly the same problem with my 29 Sedan last month. Turned out to be the oil pump drive gear A-6551. The gear was spinning on the shaft causing the timing to slip every time I started her up. It can be removed easily through the valve cover.
 

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I cleaned up the points, changed the cap, and readjusted the timing,the head seems to be staying around 195, 200 degrees. I will keep an eye on it and pray it stays reasonably cool. I am surprised the radiator stays so cool compared to the engine. Radiator seems to stay around 100 degrees. Thanks for your help. i will pull the distributor and check the gear.O ne more question, does it matter if the distributor is in 180 degrees off? I was looking at my dump truck today and noticed it was in the opposite way.
 
wow...so the dist body is in the head backwards? a dowel pin in bottom of dist lines with a hole in the head make sure the dowel is in the hole
32forddump said:
I cleaned up the points, changed the cap, and readjusted the timing,the head seems to be staying around 195, 200 degrees. I will keep an eye on it and pray it stays reasonably cool. I am surprised the radiator stays so cool compared to the engine. Radiator seems to stay around 100 degrees. Thanks for your help. i will pull the distributor and check the gear.O ne more question, does it matter if the distributor is in 180 degrees off? I was looking at my dump truck today and noticed it was in the opposite way.
Click to expand...
 
just took it for a ride, the head is 230 and i can hear the water boiling. Should I pull the head? If i advance it any farther it doesn't want to run. I will pull the distributor tomorrow.
 
I would do a compression and leakdown test before pulling the head.
Something is very wrong if the radiator stays at 100* while the head is 230*.

Any chance you have a thermostat in backwards, or water pump that lost the impeller?
 
" If i advance it any farther it doesn't want to run."

timing needs to be properly set, not merely advanced.
I vote the same as Tom W

Don't pull the head yet, you do not have a diagnosis yet
 
Just turned the distributor around 180 degrees and will start it tomorrow. I never did a leak down test. Whats the process. I also swapped out the water pump.The compression test is 65-70 for all cylinders
 
I did start the car today. Head got up around 190. The top reservoir of radiator was at 150 and lower was around 125-130. I will let you if it gets any higher. I would like to put a 2 inch clear hose to see the water pump pushing fluid.
 
I also wanted to buy a short length of 2" clear hose, but it was hard to find, and I'd have to buy more than I needed for a very high price.
 
Took car for a ride today and it is still over heating. I don't know what else to do but pull the head to see if there are water paths blocked. Please, if you have any ideas let me know. How do I build a leak tester? I saw a test on you tube with 2 gauges and a air compressor. Do I put 10 lbs in cylinder at tic? what type gauges do i use to make tester?
 
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