Timing and hand throttle levers

Mikko_

Senior Member
I think I messed up when I refurbished my steering column by removing the hand control levers.

Any good ideas out there on how to get them back in?
 
The first one should be easy, as you can see down the other hole for guidance. Feel your way around with the second one, and you can tap the installed one to get your orientation for the second. You should be able to feel the second one tapping against the first installed one.
 
The first one should be easy, as you can see down the other hole for guidance. Feel your way around with the second one, and you can tap the installed one to get your orientation for the second. You should be able to feel the second one tapping against the first installed one.

Yes it should be easy but thing is, for some reason I installed the column and steering box in the car before reinstalling the levers.

Guess I'll have to pull it out again so I can hold the column in a vertical position instead.
 
A few years ago I helped a friend restore a '30 coupe. It went smoothly and it was a good experience until we installed the levers in the steering column.
Marty
 
Mine were also a bear to get back in. Part of the problem was the new upper bushing... by far the worst part of the entire steering box rebuild.
 
On top of all of the above,be sure and slide a piece of fuel line on the rods as an anti rattler.


Mikko,if your going to run a performance head get rid of the A distributor,go with a mechanical advance unit,the tolerance for timing inaccuracy gets shorter as you raise compression.I run the throttle rod only on mine..its handy for warm up and oklahoma cruise control..but I ditched the spark rod,run a B distributor.
 
I find that putting them in with the anti rattler is much easier before you put the column on the steering shaft. Then ou can use the steering shaft hole and a tool to guide the levers into the bottom hole. It may be a pain to disassemble now, but probably save time in the long run and ou can get them in with the anti rattler where it should be.
 
On top of all of the above,be sure and slide a piece of fuel line on the rods as an anti rattler.


Mikko,if your going to run a performance head get rid of the A distributor,go with a mechanical advance unit,the tolerance for timing inaccuracy gets shorter as you raise compression.I run the throttle rod only on mine..its handy for warm up and oklahoma cruise control..but I ditched the spark rod,run a B distributor.

Yes I will be running a high compression head and centrifugal advance distributor so I will probably ditch the spark lever too.
 
I'm not planning on selling the car because this is something I've been dreaming of building for a very long time, so I'll take my chances and ditch the spark rod and just keeping the hand throttle.
 
Centre punch the ends of each rod, and using a 1/16” drill bit drill a small shallow 1/16’ hole in the end of each.
Push the two control rods through the new or good condition top bush and down to near the exit points on the steering column. Using a small unwanted screwdriver, grind a point to the end, and push the screwdriver unto one exit hole until you make contact with the control rod hole previously drilled. Once the screwdriver tip has entered the small hole, gradually bring it through the exit tunnel and do the same with the second.
Fit the springs and toggle arms and re-pin. This is easier said than done. The spring must me compressed considerably to get the pin to enter the hole in the end of the control rod. (Swearing profusely at this point will not help one bit.)
 
Having done several rebuilds of the colum I use a piece of brake tubing with a flair on the end and a helper tokeep tension as the rods are instaled.
 
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