Timing 32 - 48 Distributors; Two Ruler method

"What does the heat shrink do to the shaft ( I assume that is the shaft the rotor slides on)"

The shrink tubing over the shaft underneath the rotor helps prevent arcing due to some defect, weakness or crack in the rotor. For years guys simply used electrical tape, but shrink tubing really is the deal.
 
I have no quarrel with the hobbyist who wants to do his own work, including setting up the distributor using the "two ruler" method, but most of the distributors that come to our shop are from those who want to have a dependable vehicle over a long time, and are not mechanics. The advantage to using a machine, in addition to getting the point gaps correct to set dwell, is to check for point bounce using the strobe wheel, determining the condition of the shaft and bushings by observing the dwell meter for variation over a range of speeds, and setting the vacuum brake to the correct curve. My '47 has run dependably for over 7 years since I last rebuilt it, with usage of about 1,000 miles a year. We are seeing a flood of poor quality repro points now, so it is likely the demand for professional attention will increase as the DIY problems arise. I certainly endorse owners doing as much work as possible, but are seeking help before they are stranded on the road. Doing work on old cars is not a profit center. We do it to help keep the hobby alive.
 
Skip uses a Ford~Heyer machine to set the distributors he does. He recalibrates the machine every few months and also has a master distributor kept in a plastic bag used as a double check. G.M.
 
Sounds good. How do you guys calibrate the tachometer?

(G.M., what did you use to set up your master distributor to know that it's accurate?)
 
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