Tie Rod replacement

dam555

Junior Member
Any tips on replaceing a worn tie rod? It appears the pittman arm has rubbed a flat spot on the tierod, it is also a larger diameter than a stock Model A tierod. My first thought is to measure the current tierod length and then set the new one up at that length to start out. Any tips would be appreciated.
 
do you mean the drag link rubbed on the tierod? the pitman arm is the small arm connected to the sector on the steering box. setting the new tierod at the same length is a good starting point. then do a proper toe in check after..
i have seen the drag link rub the tierod due to a weak front spring..
 
i have seen the drag link rub the tierod due to a weak front spring..

Or if the front axle got slammed at some time. Frequently seen is the ends of axle beyonod the radius rod attachment are curled back. (Axle can be straightened but it's advisable while doing to check/correct for kingpin 7 degree tilt.)

Joe K
 
Mine was rubbing too. I bought a shortened pitman arm and my drag link doesn't rub on the tie rod anymore.
 
Both my drag link & tie rod were flat spotted from rubbing. Someone 'fixed' by bending both away from each other. Both were replaced when I replaced front spring, shackles, king pins. My tie rod was tapered, too. The replacement is straight. When doing the alignment, we found the new tie rod threads were just slightly off and needed a 3 ft. pipe wrench towards the final correct toe-in adjustment. Tie rod & drag link are still quite close so getting the shorter pitman arm might be a good idea.
 
A shortened pitman arm will give added clearance between the tie rod and the drag link. The real problem is a sagging front spring. I would be surprised if you wasn't also having problems whith front end shimmy, caused by the sagged spring.
 
My tie rod and drag link were also rubbing together, shorten the pitman arm which helped . But found a broken leaf in the front spring. put a new spring on and cured all problems. I think it's best to do both.
 
Back
Top