Tie rod and drag link question

W

wrndln

Well-known member
I am assembling a front end I am rebuilding for my car. I am about ready to install the tie rod. I have noticed the screw in plugs are mostly blocked by the backing plates. I have a socket tool that nicely fits into the slot of the end plugs, but I can't get to the plug slot. I have noticed that by turning the backing plates on the spindles, I can almost get the socket tool on the end plug, but not quite. I have discovered that by driving in a short slotted screwdriver into the long slot of each tie rod end, I can easily turn the tie rod to adjust the toe in once I get the tie rod installed, but I need to first get the tie rod ends installed and properly tightened. Does anyone have a good way to install the tie rod on the front end?
Rusty Nelson
 
Rusty, I assembled the tie rod and ends off the car, adjusting the tension on the tie rod ends with the socket tool you mention. I had measured the separation of the balls on the steering rods before removing the tie rod/ends so I was able to get them setup pretty closely to where they needed to be. Once on the car, I adjusted the toe in by rotating the tie rod - simultaneously adjusts both tie rod ends the same amount as the tie rod threads are left-hand on one end and right-hand on the other. HTH
 
take the wheels off for first installation .......... steve
if you turn the wheels sharply to each side you can get to the tie rod
 
I just replaced the Pittman arm, steering arms, springs and teflon bushings and also the tie rod. I did not need to do anything to the backing plate. With the drag link off I think the wheels turn a little farther. When I was installing to tie rod. I started on the right side (passenger) dropped the tie rod on the ball then put in the outside busing and spring and then the end plug, I left it loose. I had to put the driver side together very loose with some new grease in there to hold stuff in place. I then placed the end over the ball and used a soft headed hammer and smacked it on the ball. After both were on the steering balls I loaded the springs 25 % or about a 1/4" compressed. The tie rod ends should have the grease fittings facing forward on the later cars, bolts to the rear. After that I installed the drag link, kind of the same way, having to smack it on already put together on the second ball. The drag link should be installed so that both grease fittings face out to the left, it will go on ether way. Ford changed which way it went early in production. Check which way depending on the year of your car. After you set the toe in don't forget to tighten the tie rod ends and use cotter pins, also at all four end caps, after loading the springs.
 
Thanks Don, A-jay and all that answered. The frontend is not in the car. I thought I tried to see if I turned the spindles as far as they would go to get to the tie rod end plugs and still it seems like it wasn't quite enough to get the big slotted socket on the end plugs. I can check again. Otherwise, I can removed the steering arms and preassemble the tie rod and the ends, like was suggested. BTW, is it wise to add grease to the innards being I am using Teflon ball seats or would it just cause a mess and really not help the steering or wear much?
Rusty Nelson
 
I greased mine ? I was not able to use the socket tool on the tie rod end either, because of the backing plate. I used a large long handled screw driver for each end. While your in there you should also replace the rubber seals at each ball, and the metal frame for the seal less than 10 dollars for all.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top