Tie rod and drag link question ?

W

warren va

Senior Member
Rebuilding my steering system and undecided about the rebuild kits.
Has anyone used the tie rod and drag link teflon kit and if so how does it compare to all metal ones? Does it really improve the steering much ?
thanks
Warren
 
It helps reduce the drag, but the spindle balls should be smooth, preferably new. Worn ones wear the teflon down fast. I use teflon with new spindle balls and a shortened Pittman arm and the steering is easy. Of course, I make sure the spindle bearing is properly shimmed to bear the weight of the car. Improper shimming of that bearing is one of the most common causes of hard steering.
 
I thought the teflon was an improvement and less effort in steering my car. I should note that it is difficult to know how much was the teflon and how much were the new balls I installed.
 
Replaced tie rod (old one bent) and all 4 steering balls (all worn some), installed teflon kit. Steering seems tighter, not too much easier.
 
Pilotdave said:
Replaced tie rod (old one bent) and all 4 steering balls (all worn some), installed teflon kit. Steering seems tighter, not too much easier.
Click to expand...

check the spindle bearing to see if the cars weight is on the felt seal and not the bearing. See my remark above about shimming the bearings .
 
Pat, thanks for the suggestion re: thrust bearing. I've read Andrew's book on the topic. How do you determine that the weight will be on the bearing vs. bottom of the axle? The book doesn't mention any dimensional checks (such as thickness of the bearing)? Thanks!
 
Any specs on dimensions are out the window with any wear on the bearing surface of the spindle and the axle.Also,the bearing specs are different by different makers.That is why shims are used.You fit each spindle to the axle.I assemble everything,then jack up under the spindle with a block.Add or take out shims as needed.The spindle has to turn freely,and the weight has to rest on the bearing.If you can turn the bearing by hand it needs to be shimmed until you can't.At that point the weight will be riding on the bearing.If you sit and study the spindle,axle,and bearing,picking up on the spindle,it will become clear where the weight rides and you will be able to see what needs to be done.I fit the whole thing up first,with no felts to throw off the feel.
 
Regarding set up, do what Keith said, "fit the whole thing first". It is important to install the spindle bolt lock pin before checking the bearing. When the lock pin is installed, if there are too many shims under the bearing, the pin will pull down on the bolt, clamping the bearing. So, be sure everything moves easily with the pin installed and tight and weight on the spindle, yet the bearing should turn without the weight. Ordinarily one or two shims will do it, but if the axle is very worn and/or the bearing is very thin it will need more. Also, if your axle was powder coated, get that stuff off the bearing surface.
 
Pat ; I just installed one of the new shortened pitman arms and the ball was .20 thous. over size. Had to drive the sheet metal cover on for the rubber shield. When iI tightened the end cap I couldn't get it to line up for the cotter pin. Had to file out the slot to get in the pin. The old one went a half turn more and lined up right .Consquently the new arm is VERY tight . Also installed a new drag link bar. Old one was 42 7/8" long. New one is 44 ". The extra inch will not let me adjust to the previous setting. I hate to have to shorten the new rod an inch. Any suggestions will be appreciated.
Warren
 
I would get a good used drag link, The oversized ball is something I have run into before, but I could still get the end plug in as far as the cotter holes. I suspect the drag link you have could be related to the poor plug fit as well.
 
Warren, I just want to point out that there are now TWO types of teflon ball seats.

The original white, which some report as wearing quickly, and now, bronze impregnated teflon. Mac's has them, the claim is they will wear longer. LINK One past issue with teflon is the grease or dry debate. Some greases and lubes are not compatable with teflon, which may be related to the wear reports. Be careful.

Personally, I'd like to see a set made from bearing bronze, possibly with a 0.010" babbitt overlay. I'd also like to see replacement balls with a mirror smooth finish and a hard chrome overlay.
 
I know this is an old post. I installed the teflon easy steer kit last year and the toe in alignment is not holding. Three times has slowly changed to toe out. Teflon is compressing. All spherical balls are new. Anyone else have this problem? Seriously considering going back to steel cups to maintain alignment. Thanks! George
 
Delrin is a much better material in this application than Teflon. It wears much better and does not take a set, but still is low friction.

I changed out to the plastic ball seats because I want to wear the seats in preference to the balls. They are much easier to replace.

Gwillford, thanks for the heads up. I will check my toe in tomorrow.
 
Last edited:
gwillford said:
I know this is an old post. I installed the teflon easy steer kit last year and the toe in alignment is not holding. Three times has slowly changed to toe out. Teflon is compressing. All spherical balls are new. Anyone else have this problem? Seriously considering going back to steel cups to maintain alignment. Thanks! George
Click to expand...


Teflon cold flows when under load and that is why your toe-in alignment will continually change. A better choice of material is Rulon which has additives to resist cold flow. An even better choice would be porous bronze which retains oil and doesn't cold flow.
 
I remember MAC's had Teflon Seats impregnated with Bronze. I never tried them, I never had an issue with the teflon ones.
 
Thanks for the replies. As an engineer, I am familiar with cold flow and was suspicious of the Teflon seats doing so. Was surprised that there were no posts when searched regarding alignment issues. As an additional heads up, the first time alignment went out, I also grabbed one wheel and was able to move it left and right a bit relative to the other wheel. Toe in and and out... The Teflon relaxed enough that the spring force on them in the tie rod was low. Made for some interesting driving... I ordered the steel cups and plan on rebuilding. Too bad no solid bronze ones out there. George
 
Henry had it right the first time! Just mirror polish your new (round) steering knuckle balls and use the original steel seats. Most of them have a mirror polish created by use through the years. If not, polish them to a mirror finish as well. Keep them well lubricated. The toe-in adjustment stays and you will have fun driving again!
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top