Throw out bearing spring replacement

So I got the pin out of the shaft/collar. I ended up cutting off the collar with a small grinder. With that off, the rest of the pin slowly tapped out.
Installed new bushings in the pedals, greased it up nice and put it all back together.
Not perfect but the clutch pedal movement is mush smoother now and allows for an easier adjustment and throw-out bearing is pulling back appropriately when the clutch is disengaged.
 
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Meanwhile, with all the starting of the car for the clutch adjustment, my battery slowly died. It made no sense but after investigation I noticed the new battery was hooked up opposite by the previous owner I bought the car from last month. Maybe that explains why the amp. meter was registering charge when I turn the lights on with the car off.
Charging the battery now and will report back.
 
ossieandgeorge said:
Meanwhile, with all the starting of the car for the clutch adjustment, my battery slowly died. It made no sense but after investigation I noticed the new battery was hooked up opposite by the previous owner I bought the car from last month. Maybe that explains why the amp. meter was registering charge when I turn the lights on with the car off.
Charging the battery now and will report back.
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From what you say the battery was probably installed backwards. But my first question would be, what size battery are you using ? 6v or 12v ? Alternator or generator ?

I'm wondering why the engine was started so many times for the clutch adjustment, but, thats OK, no matter.
 
Hi Patrick...6v and a generator. Battery charged back up to 100%. Installed it back in(positive to ground strap). Started right up and Amp. meter working the right way now.

Clutch adjustment is very tricky on mine. Either it's to far in and the throw out bearing touches and spins when the clutch pedal is released or it is to far out and the gears grind when putting it into gear.
The throw out slider still does not pull all the way back even after greasing and replacing the spring.
The clutch is also slipping in 2nd and 3rd. so I may be looking at a bigger overhaul then I anticipated.
I do have a question, is "free play" on the pedal actually the travel of the throw out slider moving towards the fingers until contact is made or is "free play" start after the bearing touches the fingers but resistance is still not that hard? I understand it measured at the pedal just curious what the mechanics of free play are inside the clutch.
 
Free play should be adjusted so that there is some minimal movement of the CLUTCH PEDAL before the throwout bearing contacts the fingers on the clutch, which insures that the clutch is not partially depressed and causing it to slip.

An inch of PEDAL travel is about normal... but a little more or less doesn't hurt. But you must have SOME free travel in the pedal.

If your clutch is slipping then either you don't have any free play in your adjustment, or your clutch disk is completely worn out.. BUT.....

If your clutch wasn't slipping prior to you working on the pedal return problem, then it's probably your linkage adjustment... You may not have any free play. AND....

If the gears weren't grinding before, then you have may have too much free play and can't fully disengage the clutch.

Gear grinding could also be caused by not having the correct oil in the transmission, or oil level too low. It should be at the level of the filler plug opening on the side of the transmission.
 
ossieandgeorge said:
Hi Patrick...6v and a generator. Battery charged back up to 100%. Installed it back in(positive to ground strap). Started right up and Amp. meter working the right way now.

Clutch adjustment is very tricky on mine. Either it's to far in and the throw out bearing touches and spins when the clutch pedal is released or it is to far out and the gears grind when putting it into gear.
The throw out slider still does not pull all the way back even after greasing and replacing the spring.
The clutch is also slipping in 2nd and 3rd. so I may be looking at a bigger overhaul then I anticipated.
I do have a question, is "free play" on the pedal actually the travel of the throw out slider moving towards the fingers until contact is made or is "free play" start after the bearing touches the fingers but resistance is still not that hard? I understand it measured at the pedal just curious what the mechanics of free play are inside the clutch.
Click to expand...




Glad to hear the charging system works as it should now.

Free-play is the free travel of the clutch pedal from the fully released position to where you just start to feel some resistance in the pedal. In other words its the distance the release bearing travels from fully released to where it just contacts the pressure plate fingers. That distance should be about 1.5".
You don't the bearing contacting the fingers and spinning all the time, it won't last long.
 
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