Throttle shaft

G

grovesmr

Senior Member
So I'm pulling apart carbs to find a serviceable core... Or maybe just one that needs the least amount of servicing anyway.

The carb that was on the 8ba was frozen in just about every imaginable way. I freed up the choke but the further I went the more work I saw myself needing to do. So instead I dug through the empire of rust and pulled out a few more. Found three more carbs. So in total I have two 8ba carbs a Chandler groves carb and a really nice 8rt carb with a ton of gunk but not even a speck of surface rust, everything moves freely. So I picked that one to use.

Back some time ago when I started tearing down the 36 pickup I noticed the throttle rod to the dash wasn't connected and didn't think much of it as I knew the 8ba wasn't correct to the 36. Now that I have a sample of carbs in front of me I now know why.

The 8rt has the throttle shaft that goes through both sides much like the Chandler groves which I think is from 1938. The 8ba carbs don't extend out both side of the throttle plates. So all the back story brings me to my question.

Can I add a manual hand throttle advance at the dash to the 8rt carb. I'll be using the 8ba original type distributor which will take care of normal operation advance. First flathead experience so forgive my ignorance. Just some observations I made from looking at different parts and thought hey if I can that lever I might have a crude cruise control.

You can tell me I'm nuts, I already know that
 
In the 48-52 trucks that used the 8RT carbs, there was a hand throttle available, but it was a cable-operated one. I don't know why you couldn't put an 8RT shaft in an 8BA throttle section. The external parts are available from Vintage Speed as I recall.
 
To adapt an 8BA to an older vehicle you need the choke lever and the lever for the hand throttle the older style is rod and ball instead of wire.
The carbs are same in size so parts fit between the years.
 
Not knowing what you intend to actuate your throttle, in case you opt for a flexible sheath covered cable system, I suggest you check out your local bicycle shop. The bulk of technical advancements for cable actuating systems will appear there. Some use motorcycle shops but their offering is generally huskier as opposed to low friction strong cheap stuff.
 
Don't use the throttle control lever as cruise control! If you want the dash to look good just buy the new throttle knob and slide it in place. A little bit of tape on the rear shaft and it will not fall out of it's rubber grommet.
 
Terry said:
Don't use the throttle control lever as cruise control! If you want the dash to look good just buy the new throttle knob and slide it in place. A little bit of tape on the rear shaft and it will not fall out of it's rubber grommet.
Click to expand...

So cruise control isn't recommended. I get that there won't be a computer running it with cute little buttons for Accel and decel. But you're so adamant about I almost want to steal that cookie from the jar just cause you told me not to.

Are you recommending against it for safety reasons or because it won't work.

My three beer idea was to cut serations in the rod like a caulking gun push rod, when you want to to kill cruise turn the knob. With some thought I guess I might come up with something to disengage by pressing the brake pedal.
 
Thought about putting the throttle cable cruise control in my truck. Decided it was a lot easier to lift my foot than try to remember to messing with the throttle knob, which is a bit awkward to get to anyway (right over steering column). How many time have I driven with the choke partially pulled out after a cold morning start-up? I would do as "Terry,OH" suggested and eliminate one extra item to remember.
 
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