Thread - I screwed up

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From my perspective, don't think it matters all that much. You're trying to turn the fan on when the water gets to a certain temperature, hoping that once it gets turned on that it generates enough air-flow to cool the water of the whole circulating system before it boils. Is 170 degrees that magic number for where you're installing it . . . who knows. I'd prefer an adjustable sensor/switch, but I'd try yours first and see where it comes on in reference to what your temp gauge is telling you. You'll soon find out if it is too late . . . or not. Report back on what you find . . .
 
Paul Bennett said:
After 6 rereads I simply don't understand what you are trying to say. Can you rephrase it all? I'm trying to understand what may be an important concept.


Read this pertinent article in Hot Rod...
https://www.hotrod.com/articles/tech-qa-correct-fan-switch-location/
It would seem that car manufacturers don't agree on location any more than we do. However I seek an understanding.
Click to expand...

C'mon man! Do you mean to tell us that after all of this, that you still don't understand the difference, you know....the thing....about water being warmest BEFORE being cooled (@ top of radiator), or water being cooler AFTER making it's pass through the radiator (@ bottom tank)? Why in hell would you want the fan to come on at any temperature other than the MAXIMUM ACCEPTABLE temp....WHICH OCCURS AT THE UPPER (rather than lower) TANK? My God, read the article that YOU linked! Those guys aren't confused.

https://www.hotrod.com/articles/tech...itch-location/

I don't know....possibly a different hobby like knitting, where there are far fewer difficult technical decisions to worry about.
 
Here is a quote from the linked article.
"The temperature probe should be plugged into the system where the coolant is hottest—generally, the thermostat housing, in the coolant passages adjacent to it, or in the water jacket of the cylinder heads."
 
Sure looks like we are taking something simple and trying to make it difficult. As Bob posted:

"The temperature probe should be plugged into the system where the coolant is hottest—generally, the thermostat housing, in the coolant passages adjacent to it, or in the water jacket of the cylinder heads."

Now if you have an adjustable probe turn on temp probe (which I use on one of my vehicles) or you can select lower turn on temperature probe you might be able to work it out. But, why take something so simple and make it difficult?

I have a digital controller that I can adjust the temperature that the fan kicks in from the drivers seat and it provides a digital readout. It also is linked to the AC compressor and has a cooldown timer when the engine is turned off. If you want to go to all this trouble, then I would suggest this type of setup.
 
Very basic
The engine thermostats control engine temperature
The fan sensor SHOULD read the water temperature at the bottom tank/inlet side of the water pumps.
There is no point in running the fan when the coolant temp is already below that of the engine thermostat
 
Gene1949 said:
Very basic
The engine thermostats control engine temperature
The fan sensor SHOULD read the water temperature at the bottom tank/inlet side of the water pumps.
There is no point in running the fan when the coolant temp is already below that of the engine thermostat
Click to expand...
And what controls engine temperature when the thermostats are fully open and the engine temperature heads to the boiling point ??? :confused:
 
not to be argumentative but there is no benefit in running the fan unless the radiator is unable to shed the heat load. Most of the time a proper sized cooling system will rid itself of the heat load just moving thru the air.
When my car is setting at a stoplight the fan will cycle. As soon as it's moving you can watch the temperature gauge move down and the fan shut down even on 100 degree days
 
Gene1949 said:
not to be argumentative but there is no benefit in running the fan unless the radiator is unable to shed the heat load. Most of the time a proper sized cooling system will rid itself of the heat load just moving thru the air.
When my car is setting at a stoplight the fan will cycle. As soon as it's moving you can watch the temperature gauge move down and the fan shut down even on 100 degree days
Click to expand...
So that when I install my fan, at what temperature does the fan come on or what temperature do you set it to come on ?
 
Gene1949 said:
Very basic
The engine thermostats control engine temperature
The fan sensor SHOULD read the water temperature at the bottom tank/inlet side of the water pumps.
There is no point in running the fan when the coolant temp is already below that of the engine thermostat
Click to expand...

NOT BASIC enough! Engine thermostats "control" ONLY the MINIMUM engine (water) temperature! Once the t-stats are fully open, the stats have nothing to do with MAX temperature potential. And as far as you's two guys that have it set in stone to crank-up the fan AFTER the water is already the COOLEST that it can possibly be in the cycle (at BOTTOM tank after pass thru radiator), HOW will turning fan on at that point prevent that water temp from increasing another 20-30 degrees AGAIN by passing thru the engine? You just can't cool water by fan that has already gone past the fan's location. There's not a whole lot of rocket science involved in this one. I do know that I have wasted far too much time on this thread. You can poke me with a fork! DD
 
I don't know....possibly a different hobby like knitting, where there are far fewer difficult technical decisions to worry about.[/QUOTE]

Frankly I find this quite rude. Opinions are fine but personal attacks bother me when one member seeks advice and another member denigrates. Similar to posts on the other FB.
 
HEY CALM DOWN as said in my post 16 it will work provided our friend has the correct temp switch for his location and conditions as he is still monitoring the coolant temp just its what is going into the eng not what is coming out so the switch settings will need to be a lot lower than what is considered normal when its placed at the thermostat and as i said before toyota already do this with some of their diesels . So in answer to our friends question yes it will work but a lot of experimenting will be required JUST CAUSE ITs DIFFERANT DONT MEAN ITS WRONG
 
When I started this thread I was really interested learning only the thread size of the petcock. Yes, I did post a link which undermines the theory of my situation but I did as I was told, right or not.

I am glad and thank you all for the ideas presented. My conclusion now is: my sensor is in the WRONG place, at the bottom, it's gonna stay there, and it will work. Sort of.

Thanks everyone for your thoughts.
 
If you have a reliable temp gauge you could always rig an override switch so you can turn it on manually if stuck in traffic on a hot day and start feeling nervous. I have electric fans on my three on the road flathead powered cars and all they have is a manual switch.

Mart.
 
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