Thoughts on wiring a basic '32 hot rod

T

Tim Ayers

Well-known member
Hi All:

I'm going to post this on the HAMB as well, so I understand if it ruffles some feathers.

In a few weeks, I'm going to wire up my '28 AV8 roadster. Reason I said '32 in the thread title is I'm using all '32 stuff.

The wiring is going to basic, but I want it to work without having leads/offshoots of a ready made harness not going anywhere if possible.

Here is what I'm doing and would like it to work as Ford designed:

1) Complete '32 steering column with stock light switch, horn rod, and light "bail" at the end of the box.
2) Guide headlights- no cowl lights
3) Single tail lamp w/brake & tag light
4) Still trying to decide to use foot switch starter or one on the dash

I want it all to be cloth covered wire and look traditional.

I've been looking at what Rhode Island Wiring offers and what to try to get what I need with one call. I'm thinking I just need their main lighting harness and can use cloth covered wire to wire the rest through a fuse block/box set up.

Any thoughts or help would be appreciated.

Thanks,

Tim
 
Tim , My son just went through for his 32 Tudor which is somewhat of a Hot Rod and did it through Tyree Harris (sp) and he did it as a custom harness and had a small fuse box for some add on Items and done for 12 Volt. He was happy with the job done. FWIW
 
Kerk said:
Tim , My son just went through for his 32 Tudor which is somewhat of a Hot Rod and did it through Tyree Harris (sp) and he did it as a custom harness and had a small fuse box for some add on Items and done for 12 Volt. He was happy with the job done. FWIW
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Thank you. I will look into this.

Edit: Talk about service. I sent Mr. Harris an email and five minutes later, he calls.
 
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Decide on the route you want to wires to take.

Then decide where all the junctions are.

Measure the length of the harness between all the junctions and which wires enter and exit at each junction.

Lay it all out like a big road map. Use a big piece of ply and knock nails in at all the junction points.

Lay all the wires in and follow the map so all the wires go where they are needed.

Leave all the ends a bit long so they can be trimmed to length and the right terminals applied.

That's about it.

Hard to describe really without writing a book on the subject.

Draw a diagram. Use an existing simple vehicle as a guide.

Mart
 
What I have done in the past with a few cars we have built is to use the original 32 headlight harness off the bottom of the steering column. I just bought one for a 32 pick up I'm finishing up. I add a fuse for the headlight circuit and one for the tail/brake light as well. Adding a 4 or 5 fuse panel helps to simplify adding fuses. Original 32s only had 1 fuse sooo a couple or 3 more is in order. That leaves the ignition circuit which on a flathead is pretty simple and you can use the original 32 dash harness as a start, adding or removing wires as needed. For the charging circuit I use a one wire Powergen and a Battery gauge instead of an ammeter.
I use old time Stewart Warner instruments with mechanical or electric senders. Add the instrument lights to the dash light switch and excite the gauges with 12V as needed.
By using the original (repro) wiring harness you start out with everything you need plus they are designed for 6V so they will handle the 12V with no problem.
 
Just got off the phone with Mr. Harris. Very nice gentleman and knew exactly what I wanted to do, asked some related questions. He explained to me what he needed to modify and asked me to send him my mailing address and his bill will be in the box when shipped.

Seems like a great vendor to do business with.
 
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I also have a good experience with Tyree Harris out of Virginia. Good info on wiring harnesses as I will be replacing some of the under dash stuff on the '40 in the conversion to 12 volts.
 
*** see you have an answer, so ignore the rest ****



Used to have bulk cloth wire. https://www.thehotrodcompany.com/


Sacramento ford makes harnesses. Might make you a modified harness or supply wire.


My suggestion as I think this is where you are going is to just find the cloth wire in bulk.
 
Thanks, Tinker. I thought of doing it that, but the use of the '32 light switch and bail kept leading back to needing that part of the harness, so I just went all in with a ready made one.
 
Hi Tim,

Sounds like a real nice ride!

A word of caution...Some states require 2 taillights IF the vehicle has been modified from it's original configuration. I don't know what the requirements are in N.J.

Good luck & Stay Safe!
Pat
 
I used 100% stock wiring harnesses, including the headlight bulb setup, etc.. I did use the original bulb as I found it to be a superior piece to the repop ones. I am also using the stock starter switch - which has worked fine for the last 5 years. I wanted it as simple, clean and effective as possible. Now - would I like more fuses, sure . . . but that changes the whole setup and I didn't want to do that. The only modification I made was under the dash - where I rerouted the stock ignition wire (as it provides power through the stock resister to a coil). As I have a MAG, I just redid the wiring to have my ignition switch GROUND the mag - which kills it. Simple stuff - probably 20 minutes of work under the dash. Also, I had a stock 34 style generator reworked by Whitney to build a alternator based unit that looks almost 100% stock. It even has a cut-out on top and uses the same SINGLE wire that the stock generator used. It is a great setup and provides a lot more charging power than a generator - which I needed for my lights. I'm still running 6V positive ground - why? - because I like the sound of the stock starter! LOL
 
Bored&Stroked said:
I used 100% stock wiring harnesses, including the headlight bulb setup, etc.. I did use the original bulb as I found it to be a superior piece to the repop ones. I am also using the stock starter switch - which has worked fine for the last 5 years. I wanted it as simple, clean and effective as possible. Now - would I like more fuses, sure . . . but that changes the whole setup and I didn't want to do that. The only modification I made was under the dash - where I rerouted the stock ignition wire (as it provides power through the stock resister to a coil). As I have a MAG, I just redid the wiring to have my ignition switch GROUND the mag - which kills it. Simple stuff - probably 20 minutes of work under the dash. Also, I had a stock 34 style generator reworked by Whitney to build a alternator based unit that looks almost 100% stock. It even has a cut-out on top and uses the same SINGLE wire that the stock generator used. It is a great setup and provides a lot more charging power than a generator - which I needed for my lights. I'm still running 6V positive ground - why? - because I like the sound of the stock starter! LOL
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Dale,

Thanks. I spoke to Tyree again and he is going to incorporate a 4 fuse panel similar to a later stock style for modern safety.

Tim
 
Tim Ayers said:
Dale,

Thanks. I spoke to Tyree again and he is going to incorporate a 4 fuse panel similar to a later stock style for modern safety.

Tim
Click to expand...

That sounds good! Having just the one fuse panel is a pain in the butt - having 4 circuits would surely be better. :rolleyes:
 
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