thoughts on the Model A engine?

buyitsmart said:
Can you install a new cam without taking the engine out of the car?

If you installed a new cam would that be the time to do a valve job, or does the engine need to be out of the car to do that?
Click to expand...

Yes but you have to use a couple of tricks. You would have to take the radiator off also.
 
Wow, lots of good info here - thanks guys! Now if I could just figure out what to put in my rebuilt engine. Since I am trying to keep the car as original as possible, I do not want to put a HC head on it, but I am considering a new cam (thanks to all of the responses above). I have not heard of a Stipe cam before. Do most engine rebuilders use them? Do you need to specify a Stipe? What makes a Stipe better than any other new cam? Also, I have heard that the only thing that really changes the "normal Model A sound" is the exhaust system. Any thoughts on that?
 
Cider Mill, I rebuilt my engine and did some tinkering to help her out. I added a 5.5 head, a reground 'b' cam (that is what they tell anyway), and a brand new Burlington crank. I added the crank as it was going to cost about the same to bring my spare back to life. And this one is brand new, so no cracks etc.

I did this just to give the car a little more oomph to keep up in modern traffic and that is all. I have stock everything else and am very pleased with the results. I drove over the Siskyu pass (about 4K ft.) and I think I downshifted once, other than that I stayed at 30+in the mountains. I still drive at about 50mph on the freeway, but every so often I look down and she is at 55 just purring along.

Mike
 
Cider Mill: I believe the gentleman that makes the stipe cam goes by "29 red rocket" here. Ck for some of his posts. Hope this helps.
Paul in CT
 
Last edited:
I understand the point that the Model A engine was very adequate in the 1930's and, in many situations, still is today. I think the thing that is different today is the volume/pace of modern traffic - much different than 80 years ago. I'm thinking about the Stipe cam and a HC head to give me that ability to get out of the traffic's way - far more significant than any other factor to me.
 
OK, thank you all fo your opinions. My final choice was as follows:
1. a new 330 cam
2. a lightened fly wheel with V* pressure plate
All else is stock. If I feel I need a bit more torque, I can alwys add a high compression head at a later date. Ora at Schwalm's is doing the work on this one.
 
While some of you focused on speed I think the improvements for touring is to give adequate power on the hills. Going too slow, even in light traffic on back roads can create hazardous conditions when newer cars cannot pass in a safe area.
 
I can pay my local engine re-builder $4,500.00 - $5,500.00 for a rebuilt short block with inserted bearings, counter balanced crank, full pressure oiling, and H beam rods. Of I can wait a bit longer and buy a new Terry Burtz block that uses five Chevy main bearings and Chevy rod bearings, a new counter balanced five main bearing crank, Full pressure oiling , And new bigger bearing H beam rods. Price will be under $3,000.00. I am waiting,,, impatiently. :D I saw test casting block number nine at the Turlock meet last weekend. Only one flow issue with the casting to be resolved and they will be in production. :D
 
Another view, as long as the engine is apart, it doesn't cost very much to counterbalance the crank, touring cam, 5.5 head and reduce flywheel weight and balance. I think you will find the extra power is extremly important when in heavy traffic.
 
steve s said:
To me, it's really nice to not be holding up traffic so much while pulling away from traffic lights and so on. The high compression head really helps with that, and, IMO, makes the car a much more practical driver for modern conditions. If your driving is all in the country, no big deal.

On our trip to the Williamsburg, VA meet (from Michigan) several years ago, two of us had HC heads and two were stock. We all motored along at the same speed on the level, usually in the 50-55 range. In the mountains, the HC heads pulled away, but eventually the others caught up, and we all arrived together. Being the slow poke would have bugged me, but others didn't seem be bothered at all--depends on you! As far as our monthly club tours go, Brent is right about the slowest car setting the pace, but I do enjoy being able to open it up getting to and from the tour gathering site, which can be a good ways away.

I've got all the goodies on mine, and I'm one of those guys Brent referred to who is glad he spent the money.

Steve
Click to expand...
A stock model a can pick up pretty good from a stop even when babying the engine. If you take a 100% stock model a engine that is rebuilt you will definatly have no problems with power. As Kevin had said in an above post these car were well built in the day. I don't see the need for hi comp heads and touring cams. If stock isn't powerful enough to you then put a flathead v8 in it.

The only thing I would saw is worth it is a counterbalanced crank because it will help prolong the life of the engine and Babbitt
 
The model a could run 60 mph new....but how many of you have been 60 in a stock model a, and kept it at 60? If you plan on doing parades, and not doing any sort of real driving i would say save the money and get a stock motor. But if you want to have a little bit more "lead in your pencil" for when you need more power start out with a high comp head and an aries muffler. Thats about $600 and you will have around 15 more hp and it will be a decent set up. But if you want to do a lot of major touring, i.e. 500+ mile tours i would suggest getting a touring block with inserts, counterbalance, touring grind cam, and a high comp head. you will never regret spending the money. It's not that you will use that power all the time, but when you need to jump on the 8 lane highways it sure does come in handy. with the exception of some high comp heads, No one can tell a difference when looking at the motor under the hood so i dont know why some people are so against adding these mods.
 
A Stock model a engine can be a daily driver and be just as good if not better than a modified engine. Took the roadster on a weekend trip 800 miles and came 200 miles home in the pouring rain. Keeping up no problems with traffic taking off from a stand still even on hills no problem. All i did was fill the tank a few times the hole trip. Even used the vacuum wiper, no problems there.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top