thoughts on rad

It certainly looks correct. I would be very interested in how it fits. From what I have seen and read the Chinese radiators are pretty well made, the issues are generally related to fit.
 
I've had excellent results with offshore aluminum radiators. Latest one is in my '30 Speedster and cools it very well on hot days. I've had it for a year and paid $118 shipped. :)
 
It may be smart to use a zinc anode to reduce corrosion of the aluminum. It could just go in the radiator below the level of the coolant with the wire connected to the overflow tube. Modern cars use aluminum radiators but they also use special antifreeze mixture. Consult with the manufacturer.
 
I do know of a couple in use,but I had nothing to to do with them.They said they needes a little fettling,to fine tune the fit,but they are guys like me and it wasn't the end of the world.They did tell me there are good ones and bad ones.Years ago I needed a radiator for my 96 Dodge with a Cummins engine.A new brass one was $700.and the aluminum one was $112.I got 13 years out of the OEM,and 17 years out of the aluminum,and it still looks fine.
 
if i decide to buy one it is going to save me over $700cnd compared to a recore and way more than that for a new reproduction.
the car is not ever going to be more than a 4 out of 10 anyway. the shell will hide the front edges and black spray paint is cheap.
i did talk to a fellow today at a car meet that has a cheep aluminum one in his 50 ford pu and he is super happy with it.

thanks
 
Use radiator paint which goes on thin and doesn't restrict the heat transfer very much, if at all.
 
They are less than $100 on FleaBay delivered. I've had good luck with eBay ChiCom radiators. They are the same ones that most of the local auto part stores sell.
Use the modern antifreeze for cars with aluminum radiators.


For an aluminum radiator, always use an Organic Acid Technology (OAT) or Hybrid Organic Acid Technology (HOAT) antifreeze. These formulas are explicitly silicate-free and phosphate-free, which protects delicate aluminum components from galvanic corrosion, scaling, and pitting while maintaining long-term cooling efficiency. [1, 2, 3, 4, 5]
 
I don’t wish to negate any goodwill that may exist in these products, but I take these things with a grain of salt when it comes to positive reviews. In the long run, many of the positive reviews go hand in hand with how much money was saved in purchasing an item like this as opposed to a more legitimate “replacement” piece more similar to an original.

Then, it becomes a question of what you “may” be willing to “put up with” to save the money. While they usually claim perfect fit, you already seem to know you may have to “hide” the actual fit with by hoping the radiator shell and black paint will suffice in the looks department.

I’m not sure of other pitfalls but have heard of things like broken welds caused by vibration. Again, I’m not here to poo-poo the product, but to point out that price point should not be your only qualifier of success. The rest is up to your judgement. Good luck with your adventure. Please follow up after your purchase.
 
The two that I know of that are working out fine cost $300+ each.Fit in the shell is fine,they had to fiddle with the ears that hold the shell in place.I did see a $200.one that didn't even fill the shell hole.I did have an original recored last summer,it was over $1200.Been using him for heavy equipment radiators for over 45 years,since the late 70's.He just quoted me around $1400.to do another one.That owner is going to gamble on the $350.aluminum one.That thousand dollar difference means the difference between using the car this summer or saving enough to recore it and driving it next summer.He did one for me in 2022 and it was just over $400.Something to do with his suppliers in Canada.He buys the A cores assembled,just trim to fit an solder on the tanks and sides.He can make cores,but it's very time consuming.Kind of fun to watch him feed that machine and watch it punch the holes and crimp the strips.Then he slides them down over the tubes.I've never seen the furnace operation where he attaches them all together.
 
i am running a 28/29 chinese al. radiator in my speedster, the good... they are cheep and do a good cooling job the bad... the lower neck is not aligned right( hard to put the hose on)
the cap is a screw on (i cobbled up a way to use the regular rad. cap) the first rad i used the 1/8" tabs that support the rad broke off due to vibration and the rad got against my fan, you know what that did. my second rad tigged on some 1/8" x 2"flat bar to strengthen up the tabs.... so far so good.
 
Sadly Berg’s radiator went out of business , I drove down 60 miles and picked up my 31 radiator , talked with him for a while nice guy 3 generations business ! Supply chain issues forced him to close .
 
Brassworks currently has a waiting list. I would call and get on the list they don’t require a deposit. You can always cancel later.
 
Jeff Ban said:
Spend the money and get a brassworks. You won't regret it
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+1 There is a pressure one in our Coupe - always runs at 160 degrees. AES Touring engine w/thermostat.
BTW: I haven't used a ChiCom aluminum rad in an A. My experience was in a Ford Escape and Chevy Tahoe.
 
Around 1967 I installed a radiator from JC Whitney and it is still working great with no repairs. I think I would give an aluminum radiator a try if mine dies.
 
I have been using that Radiator on my Fordor now for 2 years with a leakless water pump to be fair it doesnt look great but i could have painted it. but as far as cooling goes the warmest my engine has got after a 30 mile drive (my standard exercise run ) has been 180 F on the head (checked with a handheld laser temp gun) I have a stock rebuild rad to replace my aluminum rad on the shelf, I just don't think im going to change it.. but if you buy one paint it first or you will never get back to painting it LOL!
 
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