This May Be The Last Project

[Lona]

Well, it's been several months since I've posted anything on the progress of the paint job on our roadster. Summer visitors, travel and projects got in the way but I'm now back to work.

The minor dents and places that needed Bondo are finished and the car has been completely sanded and ready for paint. This photo was shot when the car was outside being degreased and washed. The only paint done so far is the underside of the four fenders. Since they aren't seen anyway, the rears were sprayed with rubberized bedliner as protection. A bit of the fronts are visible so they were sprayed with a black semi-gloss enamel. They turned out well but with a little more orange peel than I expected. Not so bad that they need to be redone.

This week I plan to shoot base and clearcoat on the inside of the hood panels. That will allow me to to perfect my technique on parts that are more or less hidden.

 

[BlueSunoco]

Lookin' GOOD

 

[Lona]

How do you paint the body accent bands?

Before starting the hood panels, I would appreciate some advice from someone who has painted the body accent bands a different color from the body. What sequence do you use for painting the yellow body and the brown accent bands? What taping sequence is used and how do you avoid the film step in the finish when removing the tape?

Again, I'm using a base and clearcoat process.

Glen

 

[Lona]

I'm now back to work on painting the roadster. We are still getting some nice warmish days to spray outside but constant wind off the river gives us debris flying around and never-ending rain of autumn leaves. Painting outside now is not workable.

Rather than having to move three other cars out of the garage and laying tarps all over, I decided to paint as much as I could in the attic of the garage. Attached photos show my portable paint booth and the result of painting the first part. It's the back side of a hood side panel.

While just a small piece, it is confirmation that my $300 Earlex 5500 HVLP turbine system is actually capable of laying down a quality base and clearcoat finish and without any significant overspray. I had my doubts but
am quite pleased with my first attempt and will continue to post photos as more parts go through the finishing process.

The next challenge is painting the dark brown belt moldings which are a different color from the yellow of the car. I hope to attack that issue this week.

 

[JayJay]

I'm now back to work on painting the roadster. We are still getting some nice warmish days to spray outside but constant wind off the river gives us debris flying around and never-ending rain of autumn leaves. Painting outside now is not workable.

Rather than having to move three other cars out of the garage and laying tarps all over, I decided to paint as much as I could in the attic of the garage. Attached photos show my portable paint booth and the result of painting the first part. It's the back side of a hood side panel.

While just a small piece, it is confirmation that my $300 Earlex 5500 HVLP turbine system is actually capable of laying down a quality base and clearcoat finish and without any significant overspray. I had my doubts but
am quite pleased with my first attempt and will continue to post photos as more parts go through the finishing process.

The next challenge is painting the dark brown belt moldings which are a different color from the yellow of the car. I hope to attack that issue this week.

I have a FUJI HVLP system that is similar in operation to your Earlex - small turbine generates HVLP air, sends it through a large diameter hose to the gun. I've had mine for about 30 years, but FUJI still sells a similar turbine/gun package.

I've used it extensively for smallish jobs such as motorcycle parts and cabinet frames. I find it works fine for those. I have also used it to spray thinned-down latex paint for woodworking projects like doors. With latex paint, even using Floetrol, I don't get quite the same level of leveling as I do for automotive paints. It's a great little package for small jobs, beats breaking out the "big guns" and the big air compressor.

One thing to be watchful for - as the spray session gets longer (say over 10-15 minutes or so) the temperature of the air coming from the turbine rises. Not only does this make the handle hot to the touch, it also changes the temperature of the air atomizing the paint, and it will partially flash the paint off before it hits the metal, leading to a pebbly finish. You might be able to combat this somewhat by immersing the hose in a bucket of water, I've not tried that.

As far as the belt moldings - your paint manufacturer should have instructions on how to apply a second color finish, in particular timing. If you roll the masking tape back on itself, then apply that rolled edge as your mask, you might be able to avoid the hard edge that comes with masking directly to the tape edge. You may need to scuff the first coat a bit to get the second (darker brown) to adhere better. And pull the masking tape as soon as you can after you're done shooting the second color.

For future panels you might want to reconsider your order of operations - paint the dark brown first, mask it off, then shoot the panels. You might find the masking easier that way. Ford used both methods originally.

 

[Lona]

JayJay,
Thanks for the input. As mentioned previously, I bought the Earlex HVLP unit several years ago to spray some 40 kitchen cabinet doors on site but did not have any problem with atomization, probably because I was using a water based urethane. I did notice the heat buildup in the hose while spraying today and will take your suggestion to watch out for dry spray problems. Most of my spraying will be in short intervals so I hope the turbine heat buildup will not be an issue.

I mulled over several ideas about how to paint the belt moldings with the objective of doing as little taping as possible and trying to eliminate the paint step at the tape line. I think the best suggestion I have read is as follows.

After properly prepping the surface, spray the yellow base coats on the entire panel, including the molding. The base I am using gives a clear coat application window of not before 30 minutes post base coat flash-off and not after 24 hrs. About an hour after the base has dried, tape off the molding and spray the dark accent base color. Then pull the tape before the molding base has dried. An hour or so after spraying the molding base, clear coat the entire panel including the molding such that the clear coats flow over the tape line, eliminating the crisp edge. This also eliminates any need to scuff the molding color prior to applying the clear coat.

Glen

 

[JayJay]

JayJay,
Thanks for the input. As mentioned previously, I bought the Earlex HVLP unit several years ago to spray some 40 kitchen cabinet doors on site but did not have any problem with atomization, probably because I was using a water based urethane. I did notice the heat buildup in the hose while spraying today and will take your suggestion to watch out for dry spray problems. Most of my spraying will be in short intervals so I hope the turbine heat buildup will not be an issue.

I mulled over several ideas about how to paint the belt moldings with the objective of doing as little taping as possible and trying to eliminate the paint step at the tape line. I think the best suggestion I have read is as follows.

After properly prepping the surface, spray the yellow base coats on the entire panel, including the molding. The base I am using gives a clear coat application window of not before 30 minutes post base coat flash-off and not after 24 hrs. About an hour after the base has dried, tape off the molding and spray the dark accent base color. Then pull the tape before the molding base has dried. An hour or so after spraying the molding base, clear coat the entire panel including the molding such that the clear coats flow over the tape line, eliminating the crisp edge. This also eliminates any need to scuff the molding color prior to applying the clear coat.

Glen

Glen - sounds like a reasonable plan. You might still have to scuff the crisp edge a little with ScotchBrite pad to knock off that ridge before clear coating. Some folks have advocated the judicious use of a razor blade, but I'm not that brave. The clear coat will soften that ridge but I don't think it will completely eliminate it. Fortunately all the mask edges are at locations where the moulding sticks out a little and will partially bury that edge, rather than being on a flat field. Certainly worth a try on something you can easily respray if it doesn't work, maybe a hood top panel or a door?

 

[Lona]

Glen - sounds like a reasonable plan. You might still have to scuff the crisp edge a little with ScotchBrite pad to knock off that ridge before clear coating. Some folks have advocated the judicious use of a razor blade, but I'm not that brave. The clear coat will soften that ridge but I don't think it will completely eliminate it. Fortunately all the mask edges are at locations where the moulding sticks out a little and will partially bury that edge, rather than being on a flat field. Certainly worth a try on something you can easily respray if it doesn't work, maybe a hood top panel or a door?

JayJay,
I agree the clear coat will likely not completely hide the crisp tape line but the method described has the dark color molding taped and base coated as soon as the yellow base on the panel flashes off. Then the tape is pulled. I have a concern that if I scuff the tape line at that point or even several hours after, there will be debris from the scuffing. But, maybe that all could be removed with a tack cloth before clear coating. I have an artist's tool that has about a half inch wide flexible plastic tip, much like a narrow Bondo applicator that might work better to flatten the crisp line without producing any debris.

I'm planning to spray the outer side of the hood panels next so that will give me a chance to try to flatten the tape line before clear coating.

Glen

 

[Lona]

JayJay,

So glad you warned me about the turbine warming up the hose delivering air to the gun. It happened to me today while spraying base coat. The paint was drying before it hit the panel so the finish looked like sand paper. With your advice, I knew what was happening and immediately opened up the fluid adjustment to lay down a thicker coat that flowed out nicely.

Thanks again for the heads-up.

Glen

 

[JayJay]

JayJay,

So glad you warned me about the turbine warming up the hose delivering air to the gun. It happened to me today while spraying base coat. The paint was drying before it hit the panel so the finish looked like sand paper. With your advice, I knew what was happening and immediately opened up the fluid adjustment to lay down a thicker coat that flowed out nicely.

Thanks again for the heads-up.

Glen

Glad you got it figured out.

 

[Synchro909]

I am 87. I read the attached and remind my self of it when I get tired and discouraged.

https://budddavisson.substack.com/p...int-and-toby?utm_campaign=post&utm_medium=web

I recently, with help from my wife jacked the Model A up and installed a Mitchell transmission.
It wasn’t as easy it would have been eight years when both of us changed the clutch but we got it done.
Some times it’s too easy for me to sit in the recliner and let the old man in.

Here I am eating breakfast and unsure what I will do today, take it easy or get some of those jobs done. Thanks for posting that link. I'll do the jobs with renewed enthusiasm.

 

[Lona]

Well, as expected with any project, I've run into problems. In spite of fine sanding, washing with soap and water, and wiping down with Prep All, the base coat is reacting with the original enamel paint in some isolated spots. It didn't have that problem on the two hood side panels I already painted. The spots look like fish-eye reactions where the paint pulls away from the fresh paint, leaving a crater down to the bare metal. Priming resolves the problem so it looks like I'll be priming the whole car instead of just priming Bondo and bare metal areas as I thought I could get away with.

Second, I can no longer spray in my garage attic portable booth because it is now too cold. Days in the fifties with the sun out warms the attic enough to paint but those days will not likely return until sometime around March here in Virginia.

So, I'm addressing other things that eventually need to be done anyway. Yesterday, I rattle can sprayed the engine compartment fire wall and today, painted the engine and
parts and started painting the front end and frame. The firewall turned out better than I expected as I didn't put a lot of effort in the sanding process as it's only seen when the hood is up. Photos attached.

Another project I can do without cranking up the hvlp spray rig are the spoke wheels. Anybody have suggestions on the easiest way to paint these wheels without pulling the tires off the rims?


Glen

 

[Marshall V. Daut]

Use a fisheye preventer, one capful per spray cup. You have water in your compressor or air line and that causes droplets (fisheyes) to form on the painted surface and then pop. Oil getting past the compressor's piston rings can also enter the air stream. You can drain your compressor of accumulated water at the bottom of the tank and buy a new air hose that isn't contaminated with oil. Also, loop the air hose over a rafter near the compressor and let the rest hang down, like a dead snake draped over a fence. This forces any water in the air hose to run back into the compressor before it reaches the spray gun.
Also, buy the bulbous air trap that screws into the spray gun's air inlet. It filters water and oil as a last chance before entering the air stream into the gun.
But be sure to use fisheye preventer. I haven't had any major problem like you experienced spraying in my garage since I religiously began using it. Just don't add too much or it will change the sheen of the paint.
Marshall

 

[JayJay]

...Anybody have suggestions on the easiest way to paint these wheels without pulling the tires off the rims?


Glen

You're not going to like this, but... sometimes there's a difference between "can" and "should". You can mask to your heart's content, but you really should remove the tires, thoroughly prep (including washing, degreasing, sanding and priming) and then paint the wheels. Back in "the day" many of us took an old differential, removed one axle housing and axle, removed the backing plate and cut down the drum from the other axle housing, and then stood it on the banjo and used it as a painting fixture which allowed rotating the wheel while painting from the top and the bottom.

 

[Lona]

Marshall,

Thanks for taking the time to give wise input on fisheye prevention.

Water's not the problem in this case since I'm using an electric turbine hvlp system which delivers low volume dry air to the gun. No conventional air compressor is involved. As mentioned by one of the respondents. the dry air delivery with a turbine results in the air getting warmer and dryer the longer you spray which results in the spray droplets solidifying before landing on the painted surface.

By the way, I forgot to mention that I also used a degreaser before washing and applying Prep All to get rid of any oils contaminating the surface.

Glen

 

[Lona]

Well, it's still too cold to spray anything in my garage attic. Nighttime lows for tonight and the next week or so are going to be down in the mid-teens to low twenties. While I could spray in the heated garage, I don't have a booth plus I have three other cars that I don't have a place to store if I do any spraying in the garage. Also have an epoxy floor I don't want to mess up.

So, I'm finishing smaller less critical parts with rattle cans. I sprayed base and clear coat on the inside of the firewall and it turned out very well. I'm now prepping and brush painting the wheels. That's not be prefessional way to do it as I have been advised but I am satisfied with the results. Two done today and only four more to go.

 

[ronn]

Some times it’s too easy for me to sit in the recliner and let the old man in.


you guys are a real encouragement. I am quite a bit younger and I often play hookey


when Im sore. wondering why Im so sore at this stage of life......... we all have diff limits and the mind is certainly one of those.

 

[Lona]

Well, the cold weather is still preventing me from spray painting anything, although there is a three day window with dry weather and temperatures in the mid 60's expected toward the end of this week. I plan to use that time to get the four fenders, hood pieces, doors and rumble lid outside to get them primed.

Meanwhile, I have used the cold weather to finish painting all six wheels and to clean and completely paint the frame and undercarriage parts. Turned out nice.

 

[The Old Guy]

-
That looks really good! I hope the weather window works out for you....

 

[Lona]

The weather did break this week with temps in the mid-seventies. I had planned to spray outside but the Spring wind off the river changed my mind and sent me back up to the attic. With the two yellow lower hood side panels already finished with base and clear coat, I primed everything else I could remove from the car. All the pieces turned out well.

Tomorrow, I'm planning to spray the accent bands on the hoods and doors. They will be a dark brown color while the rest of the car is yellow. Once the bands are base coated, I will get one coat of clear over them and let them set until the clear cures. No taping involved. The base and 2K clear will be done with rattle cans since the bands are not very wide.

Then, when my pin striping tool gets here, I will pin stripe over the brown bands and then lay down another coat of clear to lock in the pin stripes. Following that, I can tape off the bands, then base and clear coat the main body yellow on those parts then remove the tape and clear coat the entire panel including the bands.

I'm also ready to spray black on the fenders but am a bit apprehensive as I understand black is one of the hardest colors to paint well. I will soon find out.