This can't be good!

Dal's Dream Car

Dal's Dream Car

Member
So I changed the oil and took her out for the first ride of the season. No issues, ran great, beautiful day. Only went 14 miles. When I got back I noticed a some oil underneath. It did not leak much, and it's much darker than the new oil thats in it. Oil level is right up there. Is this ****** fluid? I don't even know how to check the ****** fluid. It was leaking out of that hole on the bottom of the flywheel housing. Do you just take the top of the housing off? Can't find where this is addressed in my Les Andrews Vol I.

Do I have a big problem here? This will be my first full season with her (I hope!)
 

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I had the same thing happen and was freaked out. Turns out the oil cap was pushed on too tightly. There are tabs inside the oil cap and if they are bent the engine can't breathe and it pushes oil out. I odered a new oil cap and everything was fine. A quick test, take the oil cap off and take it out for a ride and come back and if it's not leaking that's what the problem is.
 
Check your oil level. Most As seem to like the spot on the dip stick 1/3 down between the two marks. I guess that's a 1/2 to 1 pt down from the full mark. You might have added a bit too much for you cars liking. BTW, almost all Model As drip a bit from that hole. Also I noticed that the is no cotter pin in that hole. They were put there to prohibit road dirt from blocking the exit of excess oil from the fly wheel housing & getting oil on the clutch. Case in point regarding oil leaking there. Trans oil is checked by removing the plug on the passenger side of the trans housing & placing you pinky in it. If no oil on your fingers first joint, add some 600w . Advice: buy a copy of Les Andrews Model A mechanic handbook.
 
There should be a large cotter pin in the bottom hole. It will vibrate a little to keep the hole from pluging shut from dirt and oil. There is a square head pipe plug on the right side of the ****** to check and fill the oil level. There is an 1/8" hole half way up the shift tower, on the rear side. If this is plugged you will loose gear oil out the front. I see the cover is missing off the front of the flywheel housing also. A couple of the 3 bolts that hold it in place are a bit hard to install.

If the ****** vent is plugged I take a small drill bit and twist it in with my fingers while holding a vacuum hose to pull the dirt back.
 
Somebody told me that Model A's like to mark they're territory. All of mine leak a little. Some get fired up over leaks, but I don't let it bother me.
 
The shift rails in the transmission push a little oil out into the clutch housing. It drips down to a felt pad that is positioned over the radius rod ball. The oil from the soaked felt will drip onto the ball socket to lube it and any excess will come out of the hole in the bell housing. Seals can be installed in the transmission to stop the drip, but that means the wishbone (radius rod) ball will run dry and wear unless you lube it manually.

Its designed to leak.
 
Beside the large cotter pin missing, you are also missing the plate that bolts onto the back lower side of the clutch housing. It is also possible that you have some type of after market wishbone ball connection. It is hard to tell from the photo. Up inside the bell housing just above the ball should be a felt block that is there to collect the oil drips from the transmission shifting rails that protrude into the bell housing. I always install a new one when rebuilding a bell housing. The felt block cannot be replaced unless you remove the engine or the transmission.

The plate for the clutch housing are usually found at swap meets. many have been left off because they are difficult to install with the engine in the car. However with patients it can be done.

Tom Endy
 
Dal, seems the only thing that changed was that you changed the oil. My money is on your oil level is a bit higher than your engine likes. Drain it down to about halfway between full and low and I bet that soon your engine will not drip so much.
 
Tom Endy said:
Beside the large cotter pin missing, you are also missing the plate that bolts onto the back lower side of the clutch housing... Many have been left off because they are difficult to install with the engine in the car. However with patients it can be done.
Click to expand...
1) Can the cotter pin be snaked in there with the engine and transmission installed?
2) AMEN to the difficult to install the plate. Been there and done that! Didn't give up, but did think about it though.
 
CarlG said:
1) Can the cotter pin be snaked in there with the engine and transmission installed?
2) AMEN to the difficult to install the plate. Been there and done that! Didn't give up, but did think about it though.
Click to expand...
1. Anything is possible, but you are not going to have any fun doing it. If you think it is hard to get the inspection cover back on, try this.

I think there is 2 possibilities to the problem at hand. The rear main is leaking either because it is out of specs and needs attention or the oil level is too high in the pan causing it to leak.
 
This web site is like a warm blanket for a new guy like me. Thanks everyone.

I will look into finding that inspection plate (sounds like it might make a good installation project for next winter..) and see about getting the cotter pin in there.

Gonna back off the tabs on the oil fill cap and maybe drain 1/2 quart, drive it and see where we are at.

Hoping the rear main is ok.

Thanks again everyone.
 
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