They said it would happen

Russ/40

Russ/40

Well-known member
Well, I've joined the club of those who break water outlet necks. I used a gasket on it and did not use the paper match trick. I figured the gasket was thin enough I would not have to worry. Well, it was fine on initial assembly, and appeared OK after the first retorque. I started it up today and ran it long enough to warm it up. All was OK when I shut it down. I went in the house and came out 30 minutes later to find the garage floor flooded, and the water neck broken. I thought if it wasent broken after torquing it would be OK. MISTAKE So to others who think it won't happen to them, it may not right away, but it will later. I destroyed a perfect original. Next one goes on with NO gasket and a touch of RTV.
 
I've seen the exact thing happen with the paper gasket. I heard a crack at a friends house and it seemed to come from his car. Checked it out and sure enough the water neck had just broken an ear off.

I've had good luck using the copper gasket. I think the paper gasket gets wet and soggy and thins out under the ear, then you have a snap.
 
I file the surfaces flat if they need it and use Ultra Gray RTV without any gasket. Been doing that for 5 years now and have not broken one water neck, and no leaks either.
 
I have installed these time and time again with no problem. I use "ONLY" copper gasket ..BUT i keep some necks extra's on hand. :>)
 
The original gasket was made just like a head gasket, with copper sandwiching a filler, probably asbestos. the paper gasket is junk, and should never be used, and the so called match trick is a lame attempt to overcome a bad gasket idea. If the correct original type gasket cannot be found, a thin layer of red high temp RTV on clean, flat head and outlet surfaces will never leak. Using RTV will also make the torque value more relevant on those two head studs, as there will only be one gasket to compress.
 
For the ignorant among us, what is the issue with the water neck that causes breakage and what is the "match trick"?

Steve
 
As you discovered the paper gasket is the culprit. Works fine when dry but becomes mushy when wet. The retorque then squeezes out the soft paper at the edge, breaking the water outlet. The match trick helps but the paper match will also become soft. The copper gasket works because the copper keeps the water away from the filler. I prefer the no gasket method.
 
I file the two surfaces flat until I, using prussian blue as a mating surface check, have a 95% contack between two surfaces. Then using thin layer of RTV torque the neck down and havent broken one YET using this method.
 
I have used the RTV for years with out leaks or broken water neck.
 

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The explanation given, that the paper gasket gets wet, and squishes out on the retorque sure sounds logical to me. Do I dare to use the copper gasket, or just go with no gasket? Anyone ever have one brake with the original type copper gasket?
 
Glad I read this. What about aluminum necks ? I have an offset generator mount, and needed to get a neck that shoots out at a different angle, and the one I found is aluminum.
 
A while back someone remarked that Henry did not make a dime on Model A's, he made his money selling replacement necks.

I thought that this was so funny that I put it on a sign on my garage wall........right next to a broken neck.

I now use grey gasket maker and just smile at the words of Anon.
 
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