thermotstats
- Thread starter hpk 53
- Start date
JayChicago
Well-known member
Using the pet **** in bottom tank of radiator, drain out a couple gallons coolant, enough that level drops below the thermostat location.
Remove upper radiator hose where it attaches to the engine cylinder head.
Place thermostat onto the cylinder head, sensor part of stat down into the head.
Replace radiator hose and tighten hose clamp. Get a second hose clamp, place it above the thermostat and snug-up slightly to pinch the hose. (this will prevent stat from being pushed up the hose. Note if your hose is enlarged where it fits on the head with reduced diameter above the stat (as original), you can skip the second clamp)
Repeat for the other cylinder head.
Refill the radiator with coolant just up to where radiator core is covered. (leave room for expansion into the expansion tank above the core)
Run the engine and check for leaks. After engine has run at temperature, recheck coolant level in the radiator.
BTW: 160 degree stats were original. With todays coolants that don't evaporate, 180 degree is better for burning off contaminants.
Remove upper radiator hose where it attaches to the engine cylinder head.
Place thermostat onto the cylinder head, sensor part of stat down into the head.
Replace radiator hose and tighten hose clamp. Get a second hose clamp, place it above the thermostat and snug-up slightly to pinch the hose. (this will prevent stat from being pushed up the hose. Note if your hose is enlarged where it fits on the head with reduced diameter above the stat (as original), you can skip the second clamp)
Repeat for the other cylinder head.
Refill the radiator with coolant just up to where radiator core is covered. (leave room for expansion into the expansion tank above the core)
Run the engine and check for leaks. After engine has run at temperature, recheck coolant level in the radiator.
BTW: 160 degree stats were original. With todays coolants that don't evaporate, 180 degree is better for burning off contaminants.
In think there are some YouTube videos on installing them. But most people start by drilling a 1/8” hole in the brass plate to allow some initial flow. And they simply sit in the opening at the top of the head. The shape of the upper hose that necks down just above the head is supposed to retain the t/stat, but many people put an extra hose clamp just above the primary clamp, to ensure that the t/stat won’t shift. Some have even used wire to retain them, or fix them to a short section of tubing that they install further up in he hoses and retain with clamps.
JayChicago
Well-known member
Good catch Bruce. I forgot to mention drilling small hole in the stat to relieve any air that might get trapped below the stat.
I thought the problem with the stat moving in the hose occurs with the cheaper aftermarket hoses that are not molded, don't have the neck-down above the stat. I wonder if anyone with the proper molded/reduced hose ever had a stat move up or twist in the hose?
I thought the problem with the stat moving in the hose occurs with the cheaper aftermarket hoses that are not molded, don't have the neck-down above the stat. I wonder if anyone with the proper molded/reduced hose ever had a stat move up or twist in the hose?
Last edited:
corvette8n
Well-known member
I had one twist in my 8n tractor, I put a zip tie just above the thermostat.