Thermostats

1. Here is bypass info:

Click on URL below to read copyrighted information:

http://stant.com/files/4814/0979/6588/Bypass_Thermostat_Instructions1.pdf

2. I also had a hose mounted 160 stat with stat clamped as close as possible to upper neck that varied widely from 130 to 170.

Tried two other new ones and they all did same same.

I think the reason is that there is not enough circulation for thermostat to work correctly and or it is the design of the cheap thermostats.

The Vintage Precision stat works just fine and stays close to 160 as designed using the same temperature gauge and moving the probe to position on the VP housing.
 
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I was surprised how much water came through, on a cold engine! Some from the dingle valve & "maybe" the valve doesn't make a PERFECT seal???
Bill Nottoworry
 
I installed a 180 degree thermostat and it always runs at 190. On long highway runs at 55mph she will go to 200-205..
 
I have a 180 degree Stant thermostat mounted in a Vintage Precision housing, Berg's radiator. It runs 180-190, never more than that, even at sustained speeds in the mountains.
 
michael a said:
Pros and cons
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During one thread session of long past regarding thermostats and such 'extra equipment', a member said that the more of this stuff that you put on your model a engine the more concern and worries that you cause for yourself...hm !

Well, I know what a thermostat is used for and am a believer in their use.
I have used a 160 stat ...forever in my A/B engines...without worry and concern.

However, recently I installed a nos well recognized temp gage attached to my steering post. Roadster was tore down for R&R and just two days ago I fired her up and went for about 10 mile run. BTW this is an ELECTRICAL temp gage.

As I have a nos B block and a new radiator for years I've never even had to add coolant as no overheating. But, on this 10 mile run yesterday, I watched as this temp gage annoyingly went from cold to 160 to 180. Back and forth it wavered from 160 to 180+. By the second mile into run, I realized that I was a distracted driver :( ! What the heck ? Then I remembered the guys entry into that very old thread about putting gizmos into a Model A and realized how accurate his statement was.

I'm now wondering if a 'mechanical' gage works any differently/better/worse than an electrical gage :confused:
One thing for sure is that this SW gage is history.
 
It should be noted as mentioned on Stant website that they make standard Stats and the Premium SuperStat. THe standard one does not have the features of the Superstat.

Quote from Stant website:

"Thermostat product lines include the basic OE equivalent products along with the unique XACTstat and the premium Superstat thermostats."

See posts 21 and 22 above for info on SuperStat that is used in Vintage Precision housing.
 
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dahrens1 said:
Isaiah, I was wondering if you went ahead and installed this housing and if so what your experience has been. If anyone else is using this type of thermostat housing I would interested in your experience as well.

Thanks in advance

Dave
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I've been using one for the past several years with no complaints. It looks like a first-rate product. I've got my hot water heater hose and my temperature gauge (electronic) attached to it. It looks a little goofy, to my eye, but works great.
 
CarlG said:
I have a 180 degree Stant thermostat mounted in a Vintage Precision housing, Berg's radiator. It runs 180-190, never more than that, even at sustained speeds in the mountains.
Click to expand...

I had the EXACT same thing with mine...I have a new engine with only 900 miles, I removed the Thermo and now I run 14-150 all the time steady..seems to be doing very good.
 
FWIW,
I've just done 800 miles in the past week with ambient temps of about 55-58F. Temp gauge sat on 145 with 160 Tstat installed. Never over 175 after a long uphill pull. (I'd like a little warmer.)
I drill 3 X 1/8" holes in the Tstat before I install it so I get plenty of water flow before it opens because I have had the situation where not enough bypass was provided and when the Tstat did open, I lost a big surge of coolant out of the overflow. I figured the water in the block was getting too hot while we waited for it to open. These 3 holes have prevented that but may contribute to the fact that it runs cooler than the rated temp of the Tstat.
As I said above, my next Tstat will be a 180 degree one but I will put the extra holes in it. It'll likely run at about 160.
 
Three 1/8" holes in the thermostat shouldn't bypass enough coolant to keep the thermostat closed, so the coolant should still reach the rated thermostat temp.

I run a 180 degree stat in my upper hose, and I drilled two 1/8" holes, and it runs between 180 and 190, which I like.
 
When you order the Vintage Precision housing, does it come with a thermostat?

I didn't think to ask Morgan when I talked to her...
 
I have a VP stat setup and have had it for two years. Works great. 160 stat came with it. Recently I realized an additional benefit. First with the VP it is easy to get to the stat. Four bolts and pull upper housing off. You do not have to mess with head bolts, hoses etc. I removed the stat and found that the stat is acting as a rust flake filter. There were rust flakes under the stat. Easy to clean out and the best part those flakes did not get into my new Berg Radiator! Perfect! So now part of my Spring start start up I will pull the stat and clean the lower housing.
 
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