Thermostats ?

Bob NH

Well-known member
I recently spoke with a nice Gent at Charlotte Auto Fair who drive's a 40 sedan like he stole it on the turnpike and he has pretty much convinced me to install thermostats in the old girl.
I had some NOS Harrison's on the shelf that have been sitting for while. I brought them up and put them in a pan of water on the stove. Using a meat thermometer they did not open until about 196 degree's even though the box said 171 degree's Would any of you folks trust them or go to NAPA and get some modern type ? :confused:
 
I use Stants I got from Summit. They're for a Subaru Justy, open at 180, but most importantly, they flow 25% more coolant than the ones listed for Ford. If you do a search, you'll find old posts referring to them and the part #.
 
Sounds like your 40 may well have a 59A engine in it. If so, the Stant 14157 thermostat that was made for the 1990 Subaru Justy fits perfectly and is higher flow than any other that fits your car. Here's why: http://www.fordbarn.com/forum/showthread.php?t=143576
Sold by NAPA as part number THM 111, or O'Reilly part number 2962 which is also Murray part number 4157. All the same stat. The original style thermostat is Ford part number 11A 8575 B and is sold by C&G here: http://cgfordparts.com/ufolder/cgcat.php?searchtype=Search+%23&year_choice=37&searchtextdesc=thermostat&searchnumber=11A-8575-BHT&sp=Search+%23 But is a lower flow than the Stant one.

Here are other threads on the topic:

http://www.fordbarn.com/forum/showthread.php?t=112889

http://www.fordbarn.com/forum/showthread.php?t=113366

http://www.fordbarn.com/forum/showthread.php?t=113979

P.S. Don't use the rubber gasket that the Stant stat comes with. It just rolls off and jams up. Just take it off and chuck it before installing the stat. Also, to secure the stat from pushing up, turning 90° and not working, secure it with one very thin strand of stranded wire as follows:

DSC00519_zpsdda17c13.jpg


.
 
Thank you Henry, I was waiting to get your input. I will head to NAPA tomorrow AM which is closer than any of the other parts stores for me. There has been some talk in the past about drilling a small hole in the plate ? Any one ?
 
Thank you Henry, I was waiting to get your input. I will head to NAPA tomorrow AM which is closer than any of the other parts stores for me. There has been some talk in the past about drilling a small hole in the plate ? Any one ?

I hesitated to pitch in 'cause I wasn't sure what engine a '40 had in it.

I'd call NAPA before driving far to make sure they have the THM 111 in stock before making the trip.

Yes. I drilled a 1/6th inch hole in the flange to let the air through when filling.
 
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OK, got the thermostats from Federated Auto Parts with a part # 419-180 made in Israel. Problem now to seal. Tightened clamps quite well and added liquid back and leaked like crazy. Was hoping it would seal around the little wires without gasket shellac or some thing that would be a "bear" to pull apart later on if needed. What all you guys using ?
 
Authentic thermostats are readily available and fit as designed. Check out eBay or give me a shout.
It is a good idea to test new thermostats. I find that out of ten, maybe one or two does not function properly. Best to figure that out on the stove vs. in the engine.
 
Hey Kube, I can still do that as the hoses are off at the moment and I almost did check but in a "pucker" I guess. Probably check tomorrow and thanks, B
 
OK, got the thermostats from Federated Auto Parts with a part # 419-180 made in Israel. Problem now to seal. Tightened clamps quite well and added liquid back and leaked like crazy. Was hoping it would seal around the little wires without gasket shellac or some thing that would be a "bear" to pull apart later on if needed. What all you guys using ?

I wonder what kind of hose clamps you are using. The old stock style don't squeeze hard enough. I have to put modern screw type clamps on and squeeze them down as hard as they'll go 'till the leaking stops. Then put a stock one above or below it (wherever it will fit), tighten it down, then I can remove the modern style if I really want the authentic look. If looks don't matter, use a modern style clamp. I even had to get an industrial grade hose clamp that uses a nut and bolt to tighten to get my lower radiator hose to seal.

Also, if you're using the wires as I illustrated, they have to be a very thin strand pulled from a piece of small gauge stranded wire for the hose to seal around them.
 
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You can avoid the wire hold-down by pinching the hose a bit with another hose clamp just above the thermostat sealplate.

Jack E/NJ
 
Henry, that may be where I screwed up a little bit. The wire size is .025 I thought it would seal and I'm using the old type clamps like original. I'll mess with it some more. If this is the worst problem a guy can have these days, we're "Golden" right ?
 
Henry, that may be where I screwed up a little bit. The wire size is .025 I thought it would seal and I'm using the old type clamps like original. I'll mess with it some more. If this is the worst problem a guy can have these days, we're "Golden" right ?

You are "Golden" indeed.

Here's a photo of the stranded wire that I pulled one strand out of to secure my thermostats.

DSCN0740_zps9f69fddd.jpg



For many years I just threaded the wire through the stat like this:

IMG_3740.jpg


But, one time I was messing with the thermostats I hit upon the idea to twist on end of the wire around the other and cut it off. More secure. Easier to install. And only two wires to squeeze the hose down on instead of four.
 
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