Thermostat
- Thread starter JimG1127
- Start date
Synchro909
Well-known member
Why do you want to slow down the water? It's not the old BS about the water not spending enough time in the radiator to cool down is it?
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Seems to me that with the thermostat at the upper dead end of the radiator hose, 18 or so inches from where the heat is generated, you would run the risk of overheating before the heat transferred enough to open the thermostat. I like the thermostat lower, on the head, for that reason.
jack backer
BANNED
Besides the fact the Vintage precision thermostat housing was designed and made by model A folks who stand behind their product there is another reason.
The thermostat is properly supported, like they are in modern applications. No chance of distortion causing the stat to hang open .. or worse, closed. Additional ports for a mechanical temp probe and hot water cabin heater, a well made and machined product.
The thermostat is properly supported, like they are in modern applications. No chance of distortion causing the stat to hang open .. or worse, closed. Additional ports for a mechanical temp probe and hot water cabin heater, a well made and machined product.
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nkaminar
Well-known member
The hole that is in the thermostat flange is too small. In hot weather the thermostat will eventually open and allow a slug of hot coolant to flow into the radiator where it could cause the radiator to boil over. The thermostat then closes and the cycle is repeated. This is especially true when going up a grade. The problem is worse with the thermostat at the top of the hose.
The solution is to drill out the hole in the thermostat flange and perhaps drill more holes. I have a hot weather thermostat that has 6 holes. My winter thermostat has the one hole drilled out to 1/4 inch or a tad larger. The thermostat should be at the bottom of the hose.
A coolant powered heater helps because it provides constant flow of coolant through the engine. That is if the valve that shuts off the coolant flow the heater is left open. Without the fan for the heater being on very little cooling occurs for the coolant.
The solution is to drill out the hole in the thermostat flange and perhaps drill more holes. I have a hot weather thermostat that has 6 holes. My winter thermostat has the one hole drilled out to 1/4 inch or a tad larger. The thermostat should be at the bottom of the hose.
A coolant powered heater helps because it provides constant flow of coolant through the engine. That is if the valve that shuts off the coolant flow the heater is left open. Without the fan for the heater being on very little cooling occurs for the coolant.
The Master Cylinder
Well-known member
Nice looking unit but, to me, it looks out of place on a mostly original engine, much like an GM alternator.
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jack backer
BANNED
I like them pure stock too.. but don’t over look the benefit of fast and consistent thermal expansion on engine wear and efficiency.
GM 10si? electrical components last longer and perform better with consistent voltage, just like an engine with a thermostat..
GM 10si? electrical components last longer and perform better with consistent voltage, just like an engine with a thermostat..
Y-Blockhead
Well-known member
jack backer
BANNED
My PowerGen and thermostat in the upper hose work just fine while keeping the original (somewhat) look.
The use of modern proven upgrades to the A to increase reliability, longevity and performance. To enable the car to compete in todays traffic in some folks eye is blasphemous..to me it’s using the car as Ford intended, economical transportation
Y-Blockhead
Well-known member
I have no problem with that but I like keeping my cars LOOKING original as much as I can.
I don't believe in slapping a bunch of speed parts on a car and removing the fenders is what was originally intended for the Ford Barn.
But we're getting off subject here... I have a 160°F thermostst in the upper radiator hose, held at the bottom with a hose clamp.
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Y-Blockhead
Well-known member
Phil Brown
Well-known member
Here is a good one for us. Guess which one of these Model "A"s was voted 'Oldest' at this car show, my friend's Woody, my Town Sedan or the chopped purple & suede coupe with the blown Chrysler Hemi? haha
Now thats a hard choice for me as I can appreciate all three with the work and passion that went into them by their owners
The woody, Im a retired third gen carpenter..... Beautiful car
TheTown Sedan, what a great car to just get out and enjoy a drive in....... again Beautiful
The hot rod, purple paint definitely not my choice of color but the hot rodding blood runs deep and the amount of work in a "good" chop top is unreal. I like it but paint it black
jeepguy1948
Well-known member
I have a VP set up new in the box which is tapped for a temp gauge and also for a heater (this was done by VP not me). I’ll sell it for 75% of retail plus shipping
jack backer
BANNED
Yep, I don’t like hack work either which is why I support my thermostat correctly
I don’t believe running a fugazi alternator and a thermostat is acceptable for fine point judging either. I think running a power gen is fraudulent..but hey, run what you brung I don’t offer my opinion of what fits on the barn because it would make me look like a jerk.
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jack backer
BANNED
Oh.and since you’ve cited speed parts as an issue on the barn.. I bought and sold my first speed parts in 1973 at Hershey.. an older neighbor gave me a rajo T head that I sold for 150 bucks.. so yeah, I’ll wear that ‘hanging speed parts’ label..
I guess I have the same question as Synchro. Maybe for our Model A friends in Northern states it would make sense to have a thermostat. I live in Texas - today it is 100 degrees F here. I don't see the need of using a thermostat in our climate. We have NO problem getting up to temperature quickly!
I have a REXACO temp gauge and going down the road on a hot day like today the gauge is nudging 190 degrees. I cant imagine anything blocking a healthy flow of water under these conditions. Our winters aren't that brutal, so even then I don't see the need for one. Am I missing something here?