Thermostat - Which One?

Herb Concord Ca said:
Like others, I also have the VP thermostat housing. Can't get the thermostat any closer to the head than that assembly does.
Years ago I tried the thermostat with the 3 tangs, didn't stay put always ended up at the radiator!! Also used the thermostat soldered to a piece of SS tubing, it too moved.

Yes the VP costs more but its the best location for the thermostat on a Model A! And it will never move!
Had mine on for about 3 years and it works great.
On my temp gauge, you can see when the thermostat opens the first time, as the temp drops about 10 degrees and then comes back up to 170, have never seen the gauge move from that temp while driving. I run a 160 thermostat.

Save up and buy the VP unit you won't be sorry.
Regards,
herb
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By the time you pay for a thermostat and perhaps a clamp to hold it in place, and the shipping to get it to you, kinda cuts down on the cost of the VP unit. Plus,the VP comes with the outlets to fit a temp probe and / or heater hose. No brainer as far as I'm concerned.
 
i took an old lower hose which the diameter is smaller and fits nicely inside the upper hose. made two pieces about 1" wide and sandwiched the stat in between. no need for an outside clamp or worrying about it moving
 
Mitch//pa said:
i took an old lower hose which the diameter is smaller and fits nicely inside the upper hose. made two pieces about 1" wide and sandwiched the stat in between. no need for an outside clamp or worrying about it moving
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I hold my stat in place the same way, except I use one 2" piece of hose pushed down from the top to hold the stat against the cast outlet on the head. I also drilled two 1/8" holes in the stat to allow the water to flow some and better get to the stat to open it.
 
Tom Wesenberg said:
I hold my stat in place the same way, except I use one 2" piece of hose pushed down from the top to hold the stat against the cast outlet on the head. I also drilled two 1/8" holes in the stat to allow the water to flow some and better get to the stat to open it.
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I drill a couple extra holes in mine also :)
 
CarlG said:
By the time you pay for a thermostat and perhaps a clamp to hold it in place, and the shipping to get it to you, kinda cuts down on the cost of the VP unit. Plus,the VP comes with the outlets to fit a temp probe and / or heater hose. No brainer as far as I'm concerned.
Click to expand...

I have $18.50 in an upper hose Tee for a gauge and & $11.50 for a thermostat. The tee came with two clamps and holds the thermostat right at the top of the water neck. I think the VP unit is nice but very costly and not needed at $92. Hey but some of us like blackwalls and some of us like whitewalls. I think a wise man once said "There's an *** for every seat". :D
 
Mitch//pa said:
I drill a couple extra holes in mine also :)
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I have ALWAYS used a 160 degree, sleeved thermostat, in the hose right up at the radiator. Always worked PERFECT! You know, HOT water goes UP! With the cap off & just starting COLD, & reving it up, it's amazing how much water goes into the top radiator tank, either through the "tiny" hole in the valve, or "maybe" by pump pressure forcing the thermostat valve open a bit??? I had a very large, very accurate, old Boyce Universal Moto-Meter that told me EXACTLY whut wuz goin' on!
Also, at crusing speed, with a good MOTO-METER, IF your temp takes a drop & a rise about every 2 to 3 minutes, REGULARLY, you ARE LOW on water! The "NAIL TRICK" will eliminate this foolishness!
While I'm "ON A ROLL", I'm ready to drill & tap for my temp guage, in the left rear side of the head, as that's where Chief said was the best place, as common sense tells us that IF there IS an inherient "HOT SPOT", it would be there. Most other makes of flathead inline engines are located exactly there.
I'm FINALLY through, we gotta' go PEE!:eek: Bill W.
 
Bill I had 1 Heck of time pounding the 20 penny nail in the tube--finally got it though---had to bend it over though --it hit the fan
 
Last night I read the RMA seminar article; I agree it is very informative, and leaves the reader to decide what they think would be best for their Model A.

I am leaning towards purchasing a ported water outlet, and temperature gauge. Installing said parts; then seeing what the water temperature actually is, and how long it takes to reach that temperature. I think I can then decide if I want a thermostat or not. This information may also give me insight to the various parts of my cooling system too, and if I need to give them any attention.

Thank you everyone for your thoughts.
 
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Has anyone taken the temperature of the engine block at various places with a temp reader gun? I run a 160 t-stat and read 180 on the block and pan. My temp gage reads 160 all the time.
Give it a try and post the results. . . .

Dick Wyckoff
 
I have an adjustable thermostat in mine. It goes from low to alcohol to hot. It was in my car when I got it. Works great - best of both worlds.
Dick
 

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Dick - The adjustable thermostats I have seen available so far; are the type that turns on/off electric fans. Can't seem to find any that adjust's and is placed in the radiator hose such as yours.

I am guessing yours is one of those wonderful after-market accessories available for the Model A back in the day.

I would like to do more research. Does the unit have a brand name on it?
 
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Ron/IA:
I looked all over my thermostat a number of times and I can not find any markings on it other then on the adjustment knob. I think I may have some pictures of the inside when we tested it in hot water. If I can find them I will post them later.
Thanks
Dick
 
Think on this: The engine is a water HEATER, the radiator is a water COOLER, the thermostat is like a little man in the hose that operates a valve to shut off or open the flow or vary the flow, when needed, in order to maintain a constant temperature. Thermostats also help slow down the massive flow that a Model A water-pump is capable of, without re-engineering the pump by grinding down the vanes. Virtually ALL cars run thermostats & thermostats rarely fail & most failures I've experienced, caused the engine to run TOO COOL.
And, I'll repeat, the sleeved thermostat DOES work well in the upper end of the upper hose! With the $$$$$$$ I saved by NOT getting the fancy thermo housing, I could hire my house cleaned, while I finish up Vermin!! ( The Dog:cool: jist asked, "Whut if she came in a BIKINI"?) WELL! thet would be EXCUSE # 37 fer NOT gettin' it driving! Bill W.
 
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