Thermo quail doesn't fit

Russell Reay

Russell Reay

Well-known member
The tabs on my T-quail are not in the same position as my regular radiator cap, causing the bird to be pointed to the left. It doesn't appear that any part of the quail cap is adjustable. In addition, it appears that the overflow tube is too high to allow the quail cap to screw on correctly. This is a new Brassworks radiator. Comments and recommends please.
 

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Russell Reay said:
The tabs on my T-quail are not in the same position as my regular radiator cap, causing the bird to be pointed to the left. It doesn't appear that any part of the quail cap is adjustable. In addition, it appears that the overflow tube is too high to allow the quail cap to screw on correctly. This is a new Brassworks radiator. Comments and recommends please.
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Russell - on the underside of the Thermoquail you’ll see a brass threaded shaft that is attached to to the cap with a brass nut. That nut loosens and allows you to turn the TQ in relation to the cap. You’ll need a deep socket or a closed end wrench to loosen or tighten it.

You can reach in and gently bend the overflow tube to where it needs to be.
 
JayJay said:
Russell - on the underside of the Thermoquail you’ll see a brass threaded shaft that is attached to to the cap with a brass nut. That nut loosens and allows you to turn the TQ in relation to the cap. You’ll need a deep socket or a closed end wrench to loosen or tighten it.

You can reach in and gently bend the overflow tube to where it needs to be.
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Jay- I was able to move the overflow tube with no difficulty. It appears that the brass thermometer shaft will permit the bird to move only 5-10*. Is it possible that the Brassworks neck is not positioned exactly as the original? FWIW, the plain cap fits just fine.
 

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loosen the screws holding the tabs,after the cap is on the tabs are tightened to lock the cap on.
Open the quail from the base to acess the screws most likely allen hex screws on a repro,straight slots on original.
 
This type of cap is designed to prevent theft. You can loosen the quail in the normal way and then hinge it back to add coolant, but the cap should not be able to be removed without loosening the Allen screws.

You radiator neck is not in the normal rotational position. Normally the tabs are straight across.

Depending on your soldering skills and equipment, you can take the neck off and re install it with the tabs at the 3 and 9 o'clock positions. Or take it to your local radiator shop and have them re position the neck.
 
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I politely disagree. If the thing needs to come apart (neck from tank) call Brassworks, and tell them you want to send it back. Once he takes it apart "he owns it".

Hey, do us all a favor, and let us know how their customer service is. Things happen, but how a vendor deals with things means a lot.
 
nkaminar said:
This type of cap is designed to prevent theft. You can loosen the quail in the normal way and then hinge it back to add coolant, but the cap should not be able to be removed without loosening the Allen screws.

You radiator neck is not in the normal rotational position. Normally the tabs are straight across.

Depending on your soldering skills and equipment, you can take the neck off and re install it with the tabs at the 3 and 9 o'clock positions. Or take it to your local radiator shop and have them re position the neck.
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Got it !! It wasn't clear to me that the cap was intended to be screwed on tight w/ the Allen screws. Now that I am enlightened, I can live with the neck the way it is. Bird looks good--just need a new thermometer. Thanks, guys.
 
Gene F said:
I politely disagree. If the thing needs to come apart (neck from tank) call Brassworks, and tell them you want to send it back. Once he takes it apart "he owns it".

Hey, do us all a favor, and let us know how their customer service is. Things happen, but how a vendor deals with things means a lot.
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I have had the radiator for nearly three years. It has taken me that long to build the car and get it road-worthy. The radiator neck is just one of many issues of correct vs adequate vs wrong that I have encountered in this adventure. If I were to buy another BW rad and see the neck error I would contact the company, but as long as this one cools the engine, and I have learned how to finnagle the quail, I'll be happy.
 
NK - thanks for adding in about the mounting method for these things (and the MotoMeter, same deal). After loosening up the tabs you can mount it so it hinges wherever you want (most folks hinge left). Then center the quail and you’re off.

BTW, Russell, consider having a backup radiator cap and the proper size Allen wrench with you. A number of folks have had their ThermoQuails reappropriated, which usually results in the TQ breaking (best case) or the radiator neck breaking (worst case). If the former you want to have a backup to get home. If the latter, well, you’re SOL.
 
I have a cap like that but with just the Motometer, not the quail. I glue the part that is bolted down with the Allen screws using silicone gasket cement and then use a thick O ring for the gasket for the top (hinged) part. My Motometer rotates so that I an align it with my view from the driver's seat. I have to take the whole thing off when removing the radiator shell, so I just clean up the old silicone gasket cement and renew it. I have mine hinged at the rear. I find that easier to fill the radiator.

I live in an area where theft of radiator caps is not common. But if you live in an area where that is common, remove the cap when you park the car for any length of time.
 
JayJay said:
NK -
BTW, Russell, consider having a backup radiator cap and the proper size Allen wrench with you. A number of folks have had their ThermoQuails reappropriated, which usually results in the TQ breaking (best case) or the radiator neck breaking (worst case). If the former you want to have a backup to get home. If the latter, well, you’re SOL.
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I am assembling a tool kit to be kept in a box under the seat and a crate in the back-- 1 gal water, 1 qt oil, fuses, crank, jack, radiator cap, flasher, several tools incl. Allen wrenches, tire gauge, and the list goes on
 
If I am seeing your photos correctly, it looks like your radiator is a 1930, or 1931. I don't see threads in your new quail. if your quail has threads, it is for a 1928, or 1929 radiator. Which would explain why your new cap won't fit.
 
fourfords said:
If I am seeing your photos correctly, it looks like your radiator is a 1930, or 1931. I don't see threads in your new quail. if your quail has threads, it is for a 1928, or 1929 radiator. Which would explain why your new cap won't fit.
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Everything is 1930--no threads on the quail
 
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