The time between Striping and Painting?

DUNN1929

DUNN1929

Member
My brother and father and I are restoring a 1929 Town Sedan. We are removing the body parts and striping the paint off. We are soaking the parts in molasses to remove the rust. This works better than we could have imagined by the way.
The question I have is what should we do with the cleaned parts after they are striped to prevent rust from returning due to moisture in the air. I'm guessing prime them, but they still need body work and we haven't decided on a color yet and we want to tint the primer with body color. What can we do that will not come back to bite us later?
 
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I usually strip with sand blasting and then quickly apply a coat of DP 90 epoxy primer.
A light coat is all that is needed. Then I sand it off or clean it with a disc (DA) in the areas where body work needs to be done. Sometimes it is a long wait before I get to doing the body work and the primer seals it real good.
Lets hear some more about the molasses????
 
I should have added I am not sure how to clean the molasses off before priming????Hot water???? of course tehn I would probably use some Wax and Grease Remover,
Ken
 
The parts are soaking in a tub of molasses and water. 9 parts water to 1 part molasses. We have 100 gallons in 2 plastic tubs. Two or three weeks in the tub and then power wash it off and it is clean to the bottom of the pitting. We saw a few videos on youtube and thought we would try it. It works great!! There is no sign of any rust. Even the places that the rust ate through, the edges of the hole shines like raw metal. That's why we want to prevent any return of rust before we get to the body work and painting.
 
9 to 1 works, huh? I went 4 to 1 water/feed grade molasses. Took about 1 week and all the heavy rust was gone off an old OEM Pontiac windage tray. I'm doing small stuff in a 5gal bucket. Keep it covered because it stinks. Not like feces or a dead animal, more like rotting vegetation or something. I forgot about my soak bucket all year. If it froze it thawed out and there was a heavy paste in the bottom and some floating. I took it out and tossed it in the woods (organic waste for you greenies in attendance) and just figured I'd try it out to see of it was still good. Yes. In fact it worked faster than I recall. The safest and most effective way to remove rust on rare parts, bar none.

I agree, a light coat of epoxy primer will do. There's also a phosphate conversion coating you can use from PPG. You reduce it with water and spray it on, give a quick rinse and forced air dry. It should have a chalky look when it's done and will remain rust free in a dry environment for months.
 
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