the old penny trick

[Scotty's 52 F3]

I think I am going to go with a carb spacer and the shim stock on mine. During the summer in Arizona, the engine is almost to operating temp BEFORE you even start it. Except for a few outlying areas, Arizona has ONLY oxygenated fuel available. It boils off easily in this heat.

The heat riser would still be good to have during the winter.

Scott

 

[Kray_Z-1]

I blocked mine but the damn pennies shot out the exhaust after running only a few minutes...then they looked REALLY old! The edges were rounded over and worn...like the coin lost 20% of its dia.

 

[Merc Cruzer]

I blocked mine but the damn pennies shot out the exhaust after running only a few minutes...then they looked REALLY old! The edges were rounded over and worn...like the coin lost 20% of its dia.[/QUOT

Try the tabs, they only come out when you take them out.

 

[JM 35 Sedan]

Yep, cool carb to reduce the chance of vapor lock and hot manifold to insure the fuel/air mixture does not condense in the manifold. For high performance you are interested in keeping the mixture as dense as possible to increase cylinder load which leads to the desire for a cool intake.

Speaking of that dreaded VAPOR LOCK.........While driving my '35 Ford fordor on a cross country trip, I had at least six major vapor lock issues on hot days (90°+), and at higher altitudes of ~ 8,000 to 10,000' above sea level, while using regular octane gasoline containing 10% ethanol (aka corn gass). I had a "Cool Carb" spacer located between the intake and carb base, that also extends underneath the fuel resiovour on the Stromberg carburators. This spacer works well in keeping the entire carburator cool enough to reduce vapor lock issues. The real problem I found causing vapor lock on my car was when using a '48 style glass bowl fuel pump on a stock '35 (mid to late model yr.) aluminum intake manifold. The fuel bowl is so close to the hot intake surface, that this would cause the gas in bowl to heat and boil, producing enough internal vapor to completely stop the flow of gas to the carburator. Luckily, when this happened, I was usually able to quickly find a spot to pull over, get an ice water soaked towel out of my cooler, and lay that on the fuel pump and gas lines. After 3-5 minutes of cooling the fuel pump, the engine would restart, and I was back on the road again. Two methods I found to correct this were, 1.) Raise the FP & stand 1" higher on the intake so that the glass bowl is not almost touching the intake surface, or 2.) Go back to the earlier style fuel pump w/o a glass bowl, and direct some additional cooling air on the fuel pump.

 

[Mike51Merc]

The higher the altitude, the lower the boiling point of liquids.