+++The official Barn "T" Build Thread +++

Tinker

Tinker

Well-known member
+++The official Barn Build Thread +++

Other sites have threads that show individual step by step builds. I've noticed many here on the barn have private/outside posting of their builds.

This is a thread to link the build to the barn.

If you have a build site of any kind, it would be a great contribution to others that build and have questions to view you work. Full restore or a troubling rebuild. Your documented builds of shock rebuilds, window installation, welding tips, or a overall showing off your talent is appreciated.

Thank you if you add to this thread...
 
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G' day Tinker, I think this is a good idea and a way for Ford Barner's to share both from the builders aspect and the person looking for ideas or some help. Today I took some photos of a 1915 Fire Truck that was Lufkin Texas first motorized piece of equipment and I will post one photo on my web site.
I am building a 1914 Field Truck Body that will go on a T frame and here is the link to my web site. Thanks for this idea.
www.tomsoldbarn.com
 
How about a dipstick. To check oil under your hood. So you don't have to get
under it. Find a cable type dipstick at a junk yard. Ford is the one I used.It was 25 inches long. You can go 2 inches more or less. Then pickup a 5/16 gas line 30 inches long. And a elbow with 1/8 inch pipe thread. You will need to fill in from pan to the elbow. With a 1/8 male 1/8 female. Elbow that you can put the 5/16 line in. Be sure the bottom is flared for the gas line. Drain oil. Remove the bottom petcock.Replace with spacer and elbow. Screw in 5/16 line. Bend line as needed to get it under hood. Mark the 5/16 line at the high pet ****. Now remove the 5/16 line. Place your dipstick next the 5/16 line. With the full mark lined up with the mark. On the 5/16 line.Now mark the 5/16
line at the point the dip stick will stop. Cut the 5/16 line there. Now put it together.Fill with oil. If you did it right.The dip stick should read full. When the oil comes out of the pit ****. Cost should be less then $15.
 
C'mon Jack... always better to make yer own stuff aint it? ws

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Chinaman knocks off USA made stuff so so can I! Actually this was a steel copy of the aluminum unit thats sold. The tubing is 1/2 for easier flow and less prone to pluggage. Scariest part was knocking a hole in the hogshead. Nothin' to it! ws

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On the head I drilled and tapped and used locktite. The pan was also nutted since its sheet metal. Both ends took a gasket with a film of anaerobic sealant to make it oil tight. Dont need the pollinator marking its spot! ws

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I always blow out my back and spend a month in traction with no insurance everytime I grab for the wallet. Nothing diificult at all about this job. I fabricate, I weld, I engineer, and I like to paint AND take pictures.
The available units for $75-$100 are cast aluminum with a 3/8 copper tube. Id sure hate to crack that hogshead fitting when I have that T all the way down in Bugtussell Ga. LOL Notice thats two L's as not to be confused with Bugtussle Arkansas, just down the road from the shady Rest hotel.
Seriously tho, this was only a half a day job all told and I can say I did it. No more, no less. ws

http://www.texastparts.com/mm5/merc...TP&Product_Code=T3081-HVOLKit&Category_Code=k
 
If you have a build site of any kind, it would be a great contribution to others that build and have questions to view you work. Full restore or a troubling rebuild. Your documented builds of shock rebuilds, window installation, welding tips, or a overall showing off your talent is appreciated.

I guess Bill was answering the request to show ideas on this thread. Actually it is a great idea and an opportunity for all to share their solutions to various aspects of working on these old cars.

Oh & my 14 T has a similar oil line to Bill's & it works great!

Here is a project that I got tired of waiting for a pro to do:
The seat is in the Ford car to the left. The back & side leather has been there for 108 years, the bottom part was destroyed years ago & replaced with an incorrect piece. If you take some ash, tacks, buttons, 1/2 a bag of horse hair, 1/4 of a cow hide, some heavy wire & some coils from a couple of old buggy seats you can duplicate the original in about 4 days. (I was able to find an original seat in a friend's car to take measurements from) It is worth noting that the cover is one piece & there is not an inch of thread used in this type of seat.
 

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Tinker said:
+++The official Barn Build Thread +++

Other sites have threads that show individual step by step builds. I've noticed many here on the barn have private/outside posting of their builds.

This is a thread to link the build to the barn.

If you have a build site of any kind, it would be a great contribution to others that build and have questions to view you work. Full restore or a troubling rebuild. Your documented builds of shock rebuilds, window installation, welding tips, or a overall showing off your talent is appreciated.

Thank you if you add to this thread...
Click to expand...

Thanks for clearing that up Jack. I can appreciate the fact that you tackled that seat job. Take that to a trim shop and youll end up with some chinese vinyl and a bunch of rusty hog rings! ws
 
Thanks Bill Nice photos. Very well done. Good job on the seat Jack.
Bill is right. Do it your self. Then you know whats in it.
 
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