testing, inspecting an oil pump

Kirby1374

Kirby1374

Senior Member
I will need to drop the oil pan on my 30 Tudor soon, the oil plug bung is spinning with the plug :(
Anyway while the pan is off is there a way to check a pump other than install it and check it with a gauge? I am asking because I have an extra motor that I will be borrowing the pan from and while I'm doing this I thought if the pump from the donor motor is better then I would use that one.
The pump I am currently using has 7lbs+ at startup then down to 2lbs when warm at a high idle and almost 0 on the gauge at idle when warm.
 
You can spin the pump with your fingers while it is in a liquid and see how much it puts out. DO NOT spin it with a drill, it will cover you with liquid before you can stop the drill. The pump delivers more flow than pressure. All it has to do is pump the oil into the valve chamber to feed the bearings.
 
James Rogers said:
You can spin the pump with your fingers while it is in a liquid and see how much it puts out. DO NOT spin it with a drill, it will cover you with liquid before you can stop the drill. The pump delivers more flow than pressure. All it has to do is pump the oil into the valve chamber to feed the bearings.
Click to expand...

Are you speaking from experience James? :)
 
Suggestion:


Whenever the oil pump is removed it is a good idea to clean the screen inside the pump.

Service Bulletins for V8 / Model B Page 131, shows an oil pump screen placed over a light bulb ... You can not see the glowing light through the "caked on" oil. Another reason to change oil regularly.

This engine was sent to Ford to be rebuilt.

Would be a good idea to have a new oil pump gasket before removing the bottom plate, in case yours is damaged upon removal.

The gasket sets up the clearance for two gears in the bottom of the pump!

Some pumps do not have the gasket but the plate must be removed to clean the screen.
 
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If the pump has a gasket on lower plate,install plate without a gasket & see if pump will turn freely.If so,then use just a light coat of permatex around the plate & reasemble.The pump will be more efficient with less end play in the gears.Your pressure readings seem quite normal for an A as the pump is only pumping oil into the valve chamber,then by gravity to the brgs.The B,s had an improved oiling system with mild pressure to mains & cam brgs.
 
Re: testing, inspecting an oil pump-Model B oil pump in different

The Model B oil pump is different internally also.

http://www.fordgarage.com/pages/boilpumpshaft.htm

Notice that the 1932 Service Bulletin from Vince Faulter's website says do not use the 1/2 inch shaft in a Model B pump.

Also the early Model A pump housings had a smaller (9/16ths ) bore. And would flow less oil if used in a Model B engine!

A special 13/32 shaft can be made from the Model A 1/2 inch shaft by turning down the Model A 1/2 inch shaft.

That may be why some folks have reported recently on Ford Barn or Ahooga , that they get oil pressures of only 2-3 pounds on Model B engines, at highway speeds.

My B engine gets 2 lbs at idle and about 8 lbs with a hot engine at highway speeds using 20W50.
 
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I made a simple visual tool to check the volume of oil from my pump... I cleaned up damaged/dented oil return tube and cut a 3" section out of it. Then I went to Home depot and bought some 3/4" ID clear tubing (located in the plumbing dept) and a couple hose clamps, and installed the tubing & clamps loosely. Bolt the ends of the return pipe to the engine and slide the tubing around as needed so that all fits up nicely...then tighten the clamps.

Then run the engine and see how long it takes before oil starts to flow past your new sight glass. Antique Engine Rebuilding in IL recommends that you should have flow in no more than 2-2 1/2 minutes as I recall (they say to loosen the lower end of the return tube...too messy in my opinion). I had a new pump and had oil flowing after about 20-30 seconds during a few test cycles.
 
Bruce_MO said:
I made a simple visual tool to check the volume of oil from my pump... I cleaned up damaged/dented oil return tube and cut a 3" section out of it. Then I went to Home depot and bought some 3/4" ID clear tubing (located in the plumbing dept) and a couple hose clamps, and installed the tubing & clamps loosely. Bolt the ends of the return pipe to the engine and slide the tubing around as needed so that all fits up nicely...then tighten the clamps.

Then run the engine and see how long it takes before oil starts to flow past your new sight glass. Antique Engine Rebuilding in IL recommends that you should have flow in no more than 2-2 1/2 minutes as I recall (they say to loosen the lower end of the return tube...too messy in my opinion). I had a new pump and had oil flowing after about 20-30 seconds during a few test cycles.
Click to expand...

Would this be effective in place of an oil pressure gauge?

Paul
 
Now you tell me:)

James Rogers said:
You can spin the pump with your fingers while it is in a liquid and see how much it puts out. DO NOT spin it with a drill, it will cover you with liquid before you can stop the drill. The pump delivers more flow than pressure. All it has to do is pump the oil into the valve chamber to feed the bearings.
Click to expand...
 
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