Testing blocks in the home shop

[Kurt in NJ]

For many years i used a armature growler for the magnet, it works on alternating current so it won’t transfer permanent magnetism to the metal being tested.
for magnetic particles i saved the cuttings from the fine cuts on the brake lathe.
For removing magnetism I have used a loop of wire in a heavy weller soldering gun, and a old television degaussing ring.

 

[flatford8]

That’s a work of ahat right there mistah ..........Mark

 

[Scotty's 52 F3]

Dang that came out NICE!

 

[GB SISSON]

Once more, thanks for the kind words. The cylinder head hanging from a 1x1 stick of this richlite gave me confidence that this is really strong material. I will make a pump blockoff plate next and for gaskets I know I have plenty of epdm rubber sheeting left over from the woodie's roof (if I can find it).

 

[petehoovie]

Once more, thanks for the kind words. The cylinder head hanging from a 1x1 stick of this richlite gave me confidence that this is really strong material. I will make a pump blockoff plate next and for gaskets I know I have plenty of epdm rubber sheeting left over from the woodie's roof (if I can find it).

 

[GB SISSON]

PETE!!! You are a sight for sore eyes! Literally. I have been hoping you would show up. This must be what cataract surgery is like, or maybe the guy that first made a pair of eye glasses.

 

[GB SISSON]

When I first came to Orcas Island in '78 there were a couple of batchelor brothers in their 60's who ran a sawmill about a mile from here. Over the next ten years they milled all the wood for my house and both shops. If I showed up anywhere near 10 am, it was coffee break time and up to the house we'd go. In the house was a column of 4 televisions with an old wood cabinet model with a round screen at the bottom. It was a miniature TV museum. Looking at Pete's enlargement I can see that on my shop's workbench the two bottom layers are the two sheets of particle board I installed when I built my woodshop. Followed by many years of 1/4" stacked upon each other. The last one is only about a year old. 3/4 MDO sign painter's plywood, the good stuff. Here I thought I was getting shorter, but the bench has just been getting taller.

 

[tetanus]

GB looks real good what you got going on! Well I figured I should update my stuff here. So I had my plates on and soaked vinegar in block for a week and had a space heater in valley for about 6 hrs a day to get vinegar to clean better maybe. Block got so hot I couldn’t hold my Hand on it. We’ll the vinegar didn’t do much but it’s better. So I figured I would test it hot also. I had it still filled with the vinegar I figured I would be able to see it coming out of ex ports or wherever else. Also it’s a lot safer than having air in it if it decided to blow up. I only went to around 40 pounds. Didn’t have the nuts to see if side of block would blow out since there is a lot of square inches of surface with nothing holding it. Well no leaks anywhere on deck or from studs or cracks. I used a gas pipe tester you can find at any hardware store Has a valve stem to pump up on it. I also was wondering if a guy could use some kind of old transformer somehow for the mag tester.

 

[GB SISSON]

Now that's a really nice setup you have there! Like that lifting plate too. I hope I can produce the kind of results you have when I finish my kit. For your magnet, youtube shows a lot of powerful electromagnets made using a transformer from a microwave oven. I just didn't know how to make one of those transformers into a horseshoe configuration. I have seen special calibrated 10 lb steel bars used to test electromagnets for the magnaflux process. Mine easily lifts a cylinder head, so I guess it passes. If you want I can look up the materials I used to build mine. Right now I'm half way through with building 91 cabinet doors, many different sizes, and I have a week left to be on schedule. Yikes that's 455 individual pieces, so my test kit is on hold for a bit.

 

[CA Victoria]

What thickness of T6061 aluminum plate would be suitable to make a plate from?

 

[GB SISSON]

Tim, I have no knowledge of aluminum. Hoping someone here does.

I am finally able to get back to these blocks. Today in looking at the water pump area I noticed that the 8ba blocks have a hole up high so I'm glad I saw that. Looks like a plate made for the 8ba should work on the early 24 studders. I will need to thread a schrader valve from either direction as required. Not sure the threads will hold up in the richlite so thinking a brass coupling epoxied in should solve that.
I have cleaned up the side shop where my blocks and engine tools are stored and even better yet, added a wood stove and insulated ceiling so I can do this work in comfort. In response to the urging of my buddy Skip (cas3 here), I started stuffing some of the easily accessed stud wall bays with the leftover ceiling insulation. A neighbor came by and offered 4 sheets of 1" foil faced foam board that would go a long ways in the 2x6 walls where I store junk on shelves. All in all, I'm glad I waited until I have heat and a nice new workbench and good lighting. I look forward to getting started on a good looking .030 over 8ba block and seeing how my new apparatus performs. Stay tuned.

 

[GB SISSON]

The first block is checking out well so far. I had to plug that coolant hole in the front of the deck that's half exposed because I built for a 59ab style. Live and learn, but I thought I had that covered. Next the water pump plate does not seal completely. Nonetheless, I was pleased that no bubbles at all were present on or around the stitch and sleeve job on #2 with 30 psi air. Is it best to fill with soapy water and then pressurize with air? Also, I can see that a tee with a gauge would be a big improvement as well.

 

[cas3]

A warm shop is a wonderful thing. Next, with an insulated shop you may have the urge for a cheap garage sale AC unit to fully live the life of an affluent american! all kidding aside, I believe 30 psi is excessive, perhaps just watching to see how long it will hold 5 psi without leaking, then if it fails try to find the leak. This is how the plumbers would do it when I was on job sites. Pressure it up, and check again the next day. If its leaking, find the source. Carry on

 

[petehoovie]

The first block is checking out well so far. I had to plug that coolant hole in the front of the deck that's half exposed because I built for a 59ab style. Live and learn, but I thought I had that covered. Next the water pump plate does not seal completely. Nonetheless, I was pleased that no bubbles at all were present on or around the stitch and sleeve job on #2 with 30 psi air. Is it best to fill with soapy water and then pressurize with air? Also, I can see that a tee with a gauge would be a big improvement as well.

 

[GB SISSON]

Thanks Skip and Pete. I enjoy learning new things and now it's time to acquire the skills to properly use this equipment. I will need to work on my pump cover plate, then ad the tee for gauge, then do another test with lower pressure and a better seal. I'm just glad that this older crack repair shows no suds.

 

[Mart]

Looks great, GB. I've never pressure tested, but will offer my thoughts. the extra port at the front is not open to the water jacket as such, it is just a right angle passage that exits in that extra port above the water pump. So it shouldn't leak unless the pump blockoff is allowing pressure into it. I thought the idea was to pressurise with air and then spray soapy water over everything. Bubbles will form where there is a leak.
I like what you have done, though, it looks great and finding no leaks where the stitch repair is is very good to know.