Testing a cutout

[rotorwrench]

I have a link here that investigates John Regan's regulator design. With the interaction of voltage, current, and resistance, I like to think that the regulator is actually regulating current more than voltage but it really does both at the same time. One for output and one for protection. The battery still regulates the system voltage like any other 3-brush generator. The unit just grounds the output like a very rapid on off switch. A 2-brush generator needs two separate poles to keep voltage and current both in check but it doesn't quite work the same way.
http://members.iinet.net.au/~cool386/regulator/regulator.html

The Fun Projects design is known to be vulnerable to battery disconnect when the generator is operational and it is vulnerable to any change of polarity. Fun Projects makes them for positive or negative ground so a person needs to know not to reverse polarity. A person can build their own if they have the where with all. They will drop the output current of the generator as the battery is nearing a full state of charge. This greatly reduces the work it has to do and will increase its life a good bit.

I would have a serious look into the condition of the generator if it can't be adjusted to a lower output current value. It may have a problem with some internal component or it may just have a problem with the adjuster rail.

 

[Badpuppy]

Thanks for the link, rotorwrench. Now i see how the thing works with no connection to the field winding. Just dumps excess generator output to ground. Sledgehammer approach, imo, but can't deny it works. Tom Wesenberg's design is more elegant, actually interrupts field current when it isn't required. Saves a bit of engine horsepower that way. Unfortunately it looks like Tom's not in the business anymore either.

 

[fred93]

Thanks for the link, rotorwrench. Now i see how the thing works with no connection to the field winding. Just dumps excess generator output to ground. Sledgehammer approach, imo, but can't deny it works. Tom Wesenberg's design is more elegant, actually interrupts field current when it isn't required. Saves a bit of engine horsepower that way. Unfortunately it looks like Tom's not in the business anymore either.

I have been in touch with Tom this past week about my problems with the generator/cutout and ammeter on the 29 Tudor that I have been working on. I asked him about the voltage regulator that he has been selling. He is out of town right now but he said that when he gets back in a couple of weeks he will let me know if he has any units available.

 

[fred93]

I have a link here that investigates John Regan's regulator design. With the interaction of voltage, current, and resistance, I like to think that the regulator is actually regulating current more than voltage but it really does both at the same time. One for output and one for protection. The battery still regulates the system voltage like any other 3-brush generator. The unit just grounds the output like a very rapid on off switch. A 2-brush generator needs two separate poles to keep voltage and current both in check but it doesn't quite work the same way.
http://members.iinet.net.au/~cool386/regulator/regulator.html

The Fun Projects design is known to be vulnerable to battery disconnect when the generator is operational and it is vulnerable to any change of polarity. Fun Projects makes them for positive or negative ground so a person needs to know not to reverse polarity. A person can build their own if they have the where with all. They will drop the output current of the generator as the battery is nearing a full state of charge. This greatly reduces the work it has to do and will increase its life a good bit.

I would have a serious look into the condition of the generator if it can't be adjusted to a lower output current value. It may have a problem with some internal component or it may just have a problem with the adjuster rail.

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Thanks for your reply-

I have removed the generator and took it apart. Somethings were "very interesting" to say the least. Someone has rebuilt this unit not too long before I started working on the car. When I was adjusting the 3rd brush (while it was still on the car) I had to use a screw driver and a hammer to get it to move. So I worked on that problem once I had it on the bench and apart. Now it moves without using a hammer and I can now move it a little further towards to top (thus obtain a lower amperage output. I'll see how that works when I put it back together and get it in the car again.

Whoever rebuilt this painted the inside of the generator with a silver paint. The paint was so thick that I am surprised the the generator worked at all. The incorrect brushes were installed. At least one was incorrect--the 3rd brush is supposed to be thinner than the other two--however they are all of the thicker type.

I was informed that this generator is off a 32 Ford due to the wire coming out of the rear hole on the top of the unit as opposed to a terminal post. The wire inside the generator that comes from the field coils is grounded inside the unit with a screw and nut.That didn't look very clean--so I cleaned that up and installed a new screw, nut and washer.

The brush holder bushings & washers have seen better days--so I will replace them. Also, the 3rd brush retainer springs are not correct for this generator.

I had new front and rear sealed bearings on the shelf, so I figured that I might as well replace them as well.

I will be ordering parts tomorrow so it will be a week or so before I can post results.--Wish me luck!

 

[rotorwrench]

A lot of stuff was mixed & matched by the auto parts rebuilder sources back in the day. A B model unit is similar but different and I'd be relatively certain that there were aftermarket parts being used during overhaul of some units as well.

You likely did find where at least one of the problems came from. Now it's all about getting your unit to function like it should or perhaps another unit.

 

[bobbader]

Your rear plate indicates that this probably IS a Model A Generator. If it's a B generator, the difference is that the rear edge of the case might have a chamfer on it but the rear cover might likely be cast aluminum or a variation of the 31 cast iron plate. The stamped steel cover that you show was used after the 28 Powerhouse generator was discontinued until sometime well into 1930. My guess is you have a Model A generator where a "rebuilder" replaced the stud sticking out the top of the case with a lone wire. This is not an uncommon practice as it is easier and cheaper than installing a new stud with proper wire, insulators and electrical connectors. From a strictly mechanical/electrical perspective, it still functions properly. You said somebody had "rebuilt" this generator just before you got the car. I applaud you giving them the benefit of the doubt. From the looks of things, they "thought" they rebuilt it. Using incorrect brushes (I assume you mean they were mounted incorrectly in the holders or maybe were modified to fit this application), heavy silver paint, etc, etc. does not indicate a knowledgeable rebuild. You are wise to be going through it so thoroughly. You've already remedied the "immovable" brush scenario. That's a big plus.

Good luck. You're on the right track. Bob Bader