Test light to confirm spark to plug?

BUBBAS IGNITION said:
Apples to oranges i guess. Secondary spark at the plug is maybe 8-10,000 volts and last approx 2 miliseconds. Two things , you would need to blink really fast AND the flash would be really really bright !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
The secondary is a open circuit due to rotor and plug gap . A timing light would be the correct tool to be used here, watching the flash on the timing pin.....

You need to listen to my training video on the subject :

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AkNsa0BK7Zw
Click to expand...

I think the real reason is there is not enough current to light the ordinary test light. I've always pulled a wire and watched the spark jump to ground or felt it ground through me. You do not get electrocuted because there is no current behind the 20k or so volts.
 
36tudordeluxe said:
Yup, that's exactly what I'm trying to do, was going to use test light to confirm thumb method. Never could get the test light on but can see voltage fluctuation in my meter.
Appreciate all the help guys.
Click to expand...

Ya know, it gets to be no fun any more if you make things too complicated. Think about this.......to be able to adjust your valves, it seems a given that you must have adjustable valve lifters. And with that being what you MUST have, you also MUST have the intake manifold removed from the engine to be able to access the adjustable lifters. With the above situation at hand, it should be SUPER SIMPLE to watch the movement of the lifters on #1 cylinder as you rotate the crankshaft. As you rotate the crankshaft in the proper direction, you can watch the INTAKE lifter approach the CLOSED (lifter down) position as the crank begins the LAST 180 degrees of rotation toward TDC of #1 piston. This last approximately 180 degrees of crankshaft rotation with BOTH valves CLOSED indicates that the compression is building-up in that cylinder with BOTH valves closed. When you get that piston to TDC (with BOTH valves CLOSED), adjust the valves on that cylinder. Visually verify BOTH valves closed at TDC.....and adjust those two valves! Move-on to next cylinder in the firing order. Does this make things any simpler..........and more funner? DD
 
V8COOPMAN said:
Ya know, it gets to be no fun any more if you make things too complicated. Think about this.......to be able to adjust your valves, it seems a given that you must have adjustable valve lifters. And with that being what you MUST have, you also MUST have the intake manifold removed from the engine to be able to access the adjustable lifters. With the above situation at hand, it should be SUPER SIMPLE to watch the movement of the lifters on #1 cylinder as you rotate the crankshaft. As you rotate the crankshaft in the proper direction, you can watch the INTAKE lifter approach the CLOSED (lifter down) position as the crank begins the LAST 180 degrees of rotation toward TDC of #1 piston. This last approximately 180 degrees of crankshaft rotation with BOTH valves CLOSED indicates that the compression is building-up in that cylinder with BOTH valves closed. When you get that piston to TDC (with BOTH valves CLOSED), adjust the valves on that cylinder. Visually verify BOTH valves closed at TDC.....and adjust those two valves! Move-on to next cylinder in the firing order. Does this make things any simpler..........and more funner? DD
Click to expand...

Lets not make this too easy "Coop",that would stop some of the endless entertainment we get to see when quite simple tasks are attempted. "LOL" :D.Good thing we aren't millennial's we would require a safe zone to enter and get a trophy .

R
 
Ronnie said:
Lets not make this too easy "Coop",that would stop some of the endless entertainment we get to see when quite simple tasks are attempted. "LOL" :D.Good thing we aren't millennial's we would require a safe zone to enter and get a trophy .

R
Click to expand...

Like that responce. I'm always reminded of my junior high years when all of this and more was accomplished in blissful ignorance! :)
 
I test the old way Take the wire end out of cap and hold 1/4" to ground. With key on turn over with starter should spark ever time for each cylinder.
The flat head is about the only engine that the valves are not adjustable. Unless they have been changed to adjustable. You want TDC when NOT firing.
When you find TDC turn crankshaft 1/4 turn for each cylinder ,2 times for 8 cylinder.
 
George/Maine said:
I test the old way Take the wire end out of cap and hold 1/4" to ground. With key on turn over with starter should spark ever time for each cylinder.
The flat head is about the only engine that the valves are not adjustable. Unless they have been changed to adjustable. You want TDC when NOT firing.
When you find TDC turn crankshaft 1/4 turn for each cylinder ,2 times for 8 cylinder.
Click to expand...

Actually there quite a few v8 engines that fall into that category.Gm Ford and Chrysler.

R
 
Here is what I do . . . I watch the lifters for a given cylinder. I turn the engine over by hand until I see the exhaust open, right before it closes, the intake will open - I let it come up and then back down. Once I see the intake lifter go all the way down (will be just after BDC), then I turn the crank just under a half turn (now you'll be close to TDC on the compression stroke - valves will be closed). Adjust away . . .
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top